Hello all....a couple weeks ago a thread was posted about stock electrical cap of the 4r.
Read here..
Stock electrical system excess capacity?
Anyways, long story short, Anthony with DC Power chimed in at some point and said that they produced a HP unit but some of the early units they sold encountered install issues with the 3rd party shops that were installing them. He asked if anyone was willing to give it a shot....I said yes for a couple reasons...always willing to help, and second I wanted to increase power for my winch and a planned odyssey battery. Full disclosure..Anthony did not ask me to post anything about this on the forum.
From my email to him after install last night.
I was able to install it last night. I think I recall you stating that the issue with the last person to try to install was something slightly off.
Because your design does not have the extra tab (see pic with old and new beside each other) I looked up the part number for a 19 vs 2020 (my truck) and they are the same. You also provided a bolt and nut because yours does not use the back tab with the captured nut. I suppose your billet is stronger than the casting of the OE one, so copying the OE design exactly is not required.
Anyways I proceeded with the install and noticed that there was a slight space between the top mounting bolt and the engine mount. The bottom bolts directly into a threaded hole in the engine head or block. What I did was run the bottom bolt all the way in, to the specified torque of 32 lbs. That left a .80 mm gap (measured with feeler gauge) between the upper tab (on the alternator) and the mounting tab on the engine. This may or may not be within tolerances, but I did not feel comfortable running it down as I did not want to tweek the billet front case. I did not have a super thin washer, so I placed a 1 mm copper crush washer in the space and torqued to 32 lbs with the included bolt and polylock nut. Everything looked straight and seems to be working fine. Visual observation of the new belt running at various rpms did not show misalignment or flexing of the unit. The before idle charging volts were at 13.59 all lights and accessories off...the after was 14.15V. I don't know for sure if this meets your expectations. I did not have a way to measure amp output...but as an anecdotal test, I tried to jump start my Land Cruiser LC100 which had a totally dead battery. A week or two ago it took my 4runner running at 2000rpm for several minutes to get the LC to turn over. This morning, the 4runner was able to start the LC running at idle with NO wait time.
Email end.
Other thoughts.
1. Getting the the stock alternator back bolt (not required on this unit) was not too bad if you know where to look.
2. I replaced the belt while in there with a new OE belt...should have done the idler pulleys too...but oh well.
3. The actual alternator is beautiful (if you are into that sort of thing like me)
4. I will go ahead a install an Odyssey battery now.
5. After the email, Anthony called me and asked for additional measurements which I will provide. He told me I could keep the alternator, which I fully expected to pay for...so that's awesome!
6. I feel good about the install and end result.
7. IMO the .80 mm gap could be a attributed the machining tolerances on the engine mounting point...if it is not on an exactly parallel plane as the other mounting point, this could throw it off slightly.
8. Did some research on DC power and they are certainly legit....youtube them for a factory tour.
Feedback or Questions welcome.
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