Do you have to have aftermarket UCAs on a totally stock suspension to get the caster close to 4? Can you get there on stock?

I've had the 60-65 shimmy since new. Multiple balances on Michelin Defenders and it always comes back.

It's about time for new tires and was going to have them do an alignment and try to get the caster close to 4.

I hear ya, but there's no guarantee new tires would fix it either. I've seen other people replace with different tires and the situation persists. I have another appointment this week to have them look at it again. Not confidant that anything will change. They claimed they test drove it last time and it was smooth. Who knows if they even drove it afterwards. Love the vehicle but they did send me an email offering me $56k for it, which is what I paid. But...their lot is empty so not really anything I could even trade it in on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thats a reasonable TIV for a lemon

You think so? I'm guessing they will just end up saying it's normal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea the dreaded front end shimmy. I had a bad one that took me about 6 months to figure out.

Mine drove great until I changed from my 285/70 Nitto Trail Grapps on the factory TRD wheels to 285/75R17 Trail Grapps on Method 305s and then around 45-60mph the wheel shake and pedal vibration would start.

Things that you need to check:

1. Wheel balance (you have done that) but make sure they didn't find that your tires showed excessive road force bc if they do, they are trash and will need to be replaced more than likely. It could be they were out of balance and became out of round or they could have just been out of round from the start.

2. Alignment (everything needs to be in spec). Make sure they aren't just doing tie rod adjustment and calling it good.

3. Everything should be torqued to the proper spec (not just "tight" if you are chasing vibrations)

4. Check you wheel bearings. Jack the wheel up off the ground and push at the 12 or 6 position and if you get any movement, it is a bad bearing. (3-9 movement is tie rod but that shouldnt have anything to do with it)
Toyota 4Runner w/ trashed wheel bearing assembly (12-6 movement) Vibrations ?/ braking problems ? - YouTube
It is about $150 for a koyo bearing and Dorman hub or if you want all OEM you can get one for $399. If you want to press the hub into the bearing yourself you can get it for about $90 and use your old hub.

5. Rarely, water can get in the tires from condensation formed in the compressor tank and that could cause it to feel like it is wandering especially during acceleration.

I eventually got it taken care of but it about drove me crazy trying to get it figured out.

Thanks for all the tips. Going back in tomorrow to let them work on it again. I'm gonna see if they will balance the tires again and perform an alignment. It's covered for the first 12k miles. If that still doesn't fix it, I guess I'll check the bearings. I'm thinking it's just bad tires.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update.....brought the 4Runner in again yesterday. Got the usual look like I was crazy....then the story how it's a "truck" with all terrain tires and front end shake is normal. Right. Sure. Anyway.....they called me later and said it was all set. They said the tires were out of balance. Apparently they only did a high speed balance last week and this time they performed a proper road force balance. So far, the issue seems to be resolved. No more front end shimmy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found a reputable shop that regularly does lifts and wheel/tire combos for jeeps etc.
they got it right for me.
2 other shops told me it was either bad wheel or bad tire and they couldn’t help me out.

SCS wheels/BF Goodrich AT for reference

Forget the dealer. They’ll just give you the runaround

That's funny. In my case, the dealer is the ONLY one around here who can get it right.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Gotta say, I've been tracking this shimmy issue across multiple different 4runner forums and toyota groups since I bought my 4runner from the dealer brand new in 2016, and the ECGS Needle bearing replacement is the one thing I've seen work wonders for people across the board. Lifted or not, aftermarket wheels or not, aftermarket tires or not, seems like the needle bearing replacement has been the most impactful. More people gotta be talking about this. I've honestly given up, and IF I end up re-gearing I'll definitely be doing the needle bearing, but as it stands, I just don't let the car cruise around 60-65 MPH haha. (Something about out of sight, out of mind)

Poke around the Taco forums and people are complaining about the same thing, with the same sort of troubleshooting process. Most people seem to give up by the time they get to the needle bearing, as they've probably already been convinced to check their wheels, tires, tie-rods, alignment, brake rotors, etc. The ones I've seen go in and replace the needle bearing seem to be reporting the best results, regardless of other mods.

FYI: Here is the info on the needle bearing issue: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...54805-9999.pdf

Blows my mind, that Toyota's solution is to just replace the entire diff and assembly. Wouldn't that also mean you'd potentially have that issue AGAIN after having already replaced the diff with an identical unit?

Gotta say, nevagiveup! I'm not a mechanic by profession (work for the Federal Reserve as a Credit Risk Specialist), but there are few things I can't do on a vehicle and that simply from determination and the fact that I know I can do it better than 98% of the techs at a dealership. The important thing here is to think it through as opposed to just throw parts at it. There's a whole lot of interrelated things impacting this issue and it grows worse and broader the longer it is allowed to continue. Thus I refuse to accept and continue to work at solutions for it and any other issues on vehicles.

Currently dealing with a persisent oil leak on my 2005 Honda Accord with 2.4 liter engine. First it was the VTEC solenoid. Replaced VTEC seal and Valve cover gasket, but still leaking. Replaced with new VTEC solenoid, leak reduced but still there. Read up some more and my symptoms indicated PCV valve clogged or not functioning properly. They recommend replacing PCV valve every 50K miles and mine was original at 157K. $10 part, so I replaced and the leak was further reduced. Did a complete clean of the engine with degreaser and pressure washer. This revealed that VTEC solenoid no up leaking, but up above was a small dribble coming from the rear corner of the valve cover. Bad PCV valve probably induced the leak there. So, new valve cover gasket set on the way. Hopefully that with some Honda Bond gets the rest of it. Nevagiveup.

On my first 4Runner ten years ago I started to experience those problems after first visit to dealership, when they rotate tires. many visits to different shops, balancing, alignments, newer got rid of shaking. On third set of rotors after eight years, finally bought dial gauge with magnetic base. aluminum wheels bended. all four. Dealership using air gun first, and after all lug nuts in, they use torque limiter, just to follow the book. Buy dial gauge and check all yourself. Now dealership asking: "why don't you want tire rotate? it's free." free - huh?

I often had this problem, sometimes worse than others. It bothered me that it would come and go without any real reason. It disappeared for good when I moved the wheels, front to back on each side. It was the easiest solution and it worked. I don't know why, I just got lucky and it hasn't come back since.