I don't mean to hijack your thread, but I'm dealing with a shake on my 2011 SR5 as well. How does it shake or shimmy? Mine actually shakes the steering wheel pretty bad, and I'm trying to figure out if I have the same issue as you guys.

I went in for an alignment today hoping that it was just badly out of alignment. They told me the shake was because the wheel spacers that are on the vehicle don't have enough threads to hold onto on the hub. I took the spacers off today and it seemed better at first, but I just had to go a little faster for the shake to start again. Thinking I may go back on Monday and let them know I took the spacers off but the shake is still there, just at a higher speed, and see if they will do the alignment.

FYI, here's a video of the terrible shake of the steering wheel on the way to the shop this morning. This is before the wheel spacers were removed. Imgur: The magic of the Internet

NOTE: Please don't turn this into a debate on wheel spacers. They were there when we bought it and we liked the look. I have taken the spacers off as of today and will troubleshoot this issue further before (if) I put the spacers back on with longer wheel studs installed.

EDIT: They also told me that the lift the previous owners put on has all the frontend suspension screwed up and I need new upper and lower control arms, sway bar links, struts, and also ball joint extenders.

Aww that's just a little Itty bitty shake. When mines that good I'll usually just take it. I have videos somewhere that would make you laugh on what I used to deal with.

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Are you serious? Man I hope you're joking.

The first thing is to determine if there are any worn steering and/or suspension components. If there are, replace them.

If it has been out of balance long enough, the tire tread could be worn unevenly, causing/contributing to the vibration. Or they could just have poor uniformity, and need to be replaced.

As long as the steering and suspension is good, it pretty much comes down to the tires and/or the balance job.

Find a competent shop which can fix it.

Happy to report that the shake is gone. Installed new upper control arms, longer wheels studs, and put the spacers back on. My son says it's like butter now.

heck yea. we've ran 1.25" spacers on the wheels for 80k miles. the shake has been on and off for the entire life of the vehicle. sometimes its cupped tires, sometimes its a bad alignment from an offroad trip, other times its a tire outta balance, one time it was from warped brakes. i'm thinking needle bearing is next lol. thankfully its a small shake and only at 60 when it has happened. (the brakes being warped was different obviously).

And now a word about wheel-spacers:

Imagine a straight line, through your upper-ball-joint and the lower-ball-joint. This is your steering axis, and it has "inclination". You know that already.

The front-to-back inclination is caster, and some of the earliest replies here have suggested aiming for minimum 3.0 degrees of caster.

But there is also a subtle addition beyond caster:
There is a side-slope to your steering-axis, and a crucial relationship between this side-slope and your tire-contact-patch. In a perfect world, your tire contact patch would have the steering-axis "centered" and the axis just at the front of the contact-patch. This provides a small-but-necessary "lever arm" for stabilizing your steering and providing "return-to-center". For motorcycle enthusiasts, it's like "rake" and "trail".

When you add spacers, you offset the steering axis and the tire-contact-patch. Now, in broad terms, each side will "fight" the other to try to align the road-forces in a straight line from steering-axis to contact-patch. It's subtle beause the road-forces are affected by toe-in, tire-inflation, road-friction, etc. All the usual factors :-)

But I hope you can see that by widening the stance, you may introduce a side-offset to the lever-arm. And side-to-side, these small offsets may fight each other, first one will win and straighten itself, while the other worsens... but now, that worse angle has a stronger lever and will force (whip) the other side into straighening while the first side worsens.

This is a worst-case scenario, and there are infinite shades of grey in-between, but just be aware that offsetting a tire seriously impact stability.

This^^^.

First off you ain’t seen shakes until the steering wheel is jerking violently in your hands. I’m talking death wobbles. We had this happen on our 2014 after constantly dealing with the minor shakes in the videos above. The death wobble was occurring during heavy breaking on warm brakes from 70 on down to 40 mph. I knew it wasn’t rotors, not with that violent of a shake. That sent me on a mission to address any slop I could find in the steering and suspension components. It was mostly in the tie rods, both inner and out. Nothing in suspension. Did install ECGS bushing because well we already had 300K on the vehicle and just assumed there was wear. We cleaned up the shakes.