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Old 08-28-2023, 01:27 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm-v35 View Post
It didn't have these issues in the 1st 30k miles or so. I am wondering if there is just excess pad material on the rotors?

Also, what were your results trying other rotors?
It could be since it's highly unlikely the factory beds on the brakes.

No luck with the other brands but I didn't bed them in. DBA were my favorite and I got them for my GTO but they didn't last on my Tacoma. It was most likely buildup that I thought was warping.
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Old 08-28-2023, 02:09 PM #17
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Same thing here OP, started around 30k miles. Stupid vibration/shimmy detectable under harder breaking
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Old 08-28-2023, 02:31 PM #18
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Same thing here OP, started around 30k miles. Stupid vibration/shimmy detectable under harder breaking
It seems to be pretty common. I did a lot of searching and it seems like most toyota trucks have the same thing happen. I am deciding between OEM rotors with TRD pads or some other pads that may handle heat better, or the wilwood or Stoptech BBK.

Since I have been going through the mountains more often I would want something more durable and able to handle it.
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Old 08-28-2023, 09:35 PM #19
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Originally Posted by jdm-v35 View Post
Do you get any issues coming down i-70 as well? That is where this always happens for me is coming back down i-70 from the mountains. I am wondering if a better pad material than OEM would help with dealing with the heat?

It seems to go back to normal once temps are back down to normal street driving temps so it must be something related to higher heat issues.
Have you checked your lug nut torques? Over torqued can cause warping that would be amplified when material expands under heat.
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Old 08-28-2023, 10:19 PM #20
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Originally Posted by jdm-v35 View Post
Do you get any issues coming down i-70 as well? That is where this always happens for me is coming back down i-70 from the mountains. I am wondering if a better pad material than OEM would help with dealing with the heat?

It seems to go back to normal once temps are back down to normal street driving temps so it must be something related to higher heat issues.
Ive made that trip numerous times without issue from the stock pads / rotors, nor with the current StopTech slotted rotors / oem pads. Only difference is minimal add one for mine.
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Old 08-28-2023, 10:27 PM #21
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Originally Posted by Bmnorm2 View Post
Have you checked your lug nut torques? Over torqued can cause warping that would be amplified when material expands under heat.
Yes I make sure lug nuts are torqued properly everytime and all my torque wrenches are certified CDI torque wrenches.
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Old 08-28-2023, 10:29 PM #22
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Ive made that trip numerous times without issue from the stock pads / rotors, nor with the current StopTech slotted rotors / oem pads. Only difference is minimal add one for mine.
I have made the trip many times and usually go further like west UT or down to south NM as well, so am wondering if it is finally taking a toll on the brakes.

Last edited by jdm-v35; 08-28-2023 at 10:31 PM.
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Old 08-29-2023, 09:33 AM #23
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"I am wondering if it is also more of a problem because I have a lot of extra weight(supercharger, dual batteries, fridge, front bumper with winch, full armor, rigd ultraswing, 285's, rack etc). And when I camp with the wife I carry a RTT and more gear as well."

I think you are onto something.

Do you have problems going uphill? ;)
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Old 08-29-2023, 11:59 AM #24
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"I am wondering if it is also more of a problem because I have a lot of extra weight(supercharger, dual batteries, fridge, front bumper with winch, full armor, rigd ultraswing, 285's, rack etc). And when I camp with the wife I carry a RTT and more gear as well."

I think you are onto something.

Do you have problems going uphill? ;)
Supercharger helps that. It was slower than stock of course before supercharger. Luckily I don't daily it so it gets driven maybe once a month or so unless I am camping often which is usually during winter.
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Old 08-29-2023, 05:54 PM #25
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Yes I make sure lug nuts are torqued properly everytime and all my torque wrenches are certified CDI torque wrenches.
I use CDI too! Iím out of ideasÖ hope turning and rebedding does the trick.
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Old 08-29-2023, 08:51 PM #26
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I use CDI too! Iím out of ideasÖ hope turning and rebedding does the trick.
I had a similar problem coming down that pass on a past 3rd Gen. Issue went away when I installed the StopTech slotted rotors.

Iíve been using the Centric Cryo treated or StopTech slotted on my 4Runner without isssue.
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Old 08-29-2023, 09:52 PM #27
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i forgot to add, we also run the akebono pads. better initial bite than OEM pads. zero dust.
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Old 08-29-2023, 09:59 PM #28
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I had a similar problem coming down that pass on a past 3rd Gen. Issue went away when I installed the StopTech slotted rotors.

Iíve been using the Centric Cryo treated or StopTech slotted on my 4Runner without isssue.
Thanks for the info on those. I would hope that a better rotor and pads may hold up to the heat better and reduce glazing. I am debating on just going all out and getting the wilwood kit or getting just pads and rotors.
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Old 08-29-2023, 11:19 PM #29
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I can get this occasionally.
I can expect to get it on a particular drive I do about 10-15 times a year. Itís a 300 mile drive North on 395 from Mojave through the Eastern Sierras. It always seems to be when I first lightly apply the brakes rolling up to the first traffic lights in 200 miles. After a little more aggressive use of the brakes it goes away. FTR, Iíve got 135k on my original pads.
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Old 08-30-2023, 12:01 AM #30
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Have a home on Big Bear Lake in the San Bernardino Mountains. Eleveation is 6,750í, but the passes top out at 7,102í and 8,443í, depending which route you take. Dealt with the issue you are having with the wobble under braking. For rotors, I highly recommend Raybestos Advanced Technology slotted or AC Delco slotted rotors, both made by the same manufacturer. Also use their advanced technology ceramic pads. You need to inspect and replace all worn steering parts, focusing on inner and outer tie rods.
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