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Old 09-03-2023, 10:25 PM #31
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Was going back and forth on going with a stoptech or wilwood BBK. reached out to my parts contacts and had them verify if they were compatible with stock rotors since the sizes specified in the kits were stock rotor sizes. They said they were not compatible.

I really like the idea of having more rotor choices and since those are not 2-piece and the OEM rotors have many more choices I am sticking with OEM brake calipers.

With that said I will be doing a brake upgrade as I think that the stock brakes are just at their limit with ~600-700lbs static added weight combined with lots of mountain driving. I ordered the parts to revamp the brake system and hopefully it will feel better with knowing I can replace with OEM parts in a pinch.

parts list:
EBC Yellow pads
Stoptech slotted rotors
Stoptech stainless lines(I already have stainless 3rd member extended lines for my etxended travel rear)
Motul 5.1 fluid to do a full flush
Permatex extreme brake parts lube

Will make sure to bed the pads properly and hopefully they do better.
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Old 09-05-2023, 02:12 PM #32
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I haven't had this problem yet anyway. But I agree engine braking is essential, on a long downhill never be in 5th gear, put it in 4th and lower the speed. Something else I always do is turn on the AC and turn on the headlights to provide a little bit more engine resistance from the alternator. I sometimes tow a pop-up trailer and I never had an issue with this strategy.
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Old 12-22-2023, 01:27 PM #33
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Same issue

Have you found a solution?
Iíve been having the same issue. Having had to replace multiple rotors and pads within the last year. Most recently set of EBC slotted brakes with yellow pads. These were done within the past month and I can already feel them warping. I do normal daily driving no harsh hills or sudden stops. Brakes and pads were bed in properly. I took it to Toyota and they say calipers/pistons are all fine moving freely no issues or sticking brakes. What is warping my rotors so frequently??? Anyone have any insight?
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Old 12-22-2023, 02:03 PM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILL.T4R View Post
Have you found a solution?
Iíve been having the same issue. Having had to replace multiple rotors and pads within the last year. Most recently set of EBC slotted brakes with yellow pads. These were done within the past month and I can already feel them warping. I do normal daily driving no harsh hills or sudden stops. Brakes and pads were bed in properly. I took it to Toyota and they say calipers/pistons are all fine moving freely no issues or sticking brakes. What is warping my rotors so frequently??? Anyone have any insight?
I had rotor warping issues especially when my 4Runner was my wife's daily . I switched to the dimpled/slotted rotors and pad from brakeperformance on the 4Runner and drilled/slotted on my wife's car and have not had any warping issues since. I had always used Toyota pads and rotors prior to that. I was hesitant to go with the drilled rotors due to fear of cracking but they warranty them against that. They've been on for a couple of years and no complaints other than they can be louder than the factory pads/rotors.
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Old 12-22-2023, 02:09 PM #35
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Originally Posted by EEEliminator View Post
I had rotor warping issues especially when my 4Runner was my wife's daily . I switched to the dimpled/slotted rotors and pad from brakeperformance on the 4Runner and drilled/slotted on my wife's car and have not had any warping issues since. I had always used Toyota pads and rotors prior to that. I was hesitant to go with the drilled rotors due to fear of cracking but they warranty them against that. They've been on for a couple of years and no complaints other than they can be louder than the factory pads/rotors.

This is what Iím running right now (dimpled and slotted) less than a month in and Iím warping them again. Donít know where to go next if Toyota and off road shops canít find an issue. Donít want to keep throwing money at in search of a fix.. but I might have to lol
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Old 12-22-2023, 02:24 PM #36
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Are they warped though? What was runout measurement after install?
Any issue meeting specs?
Maximum disc runout: 0.05 mm (0.00197 in.)
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Old 12-22-2023, 04:48 PM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000MPH View Post
Are they warped though? What was runout measurement after install?
Any issue meeting specs?
Maximum disc runout: 0.05 mm (0.00197 in.)
Toyota said they couldnít measure runout due to the rotor being slotted, saying the slots would interfere with the measuring gauge. Me stating theyíre warping is from the signs and symptoms of previous rotors that were in fact replaced due to warping. ie. vibrations when braking and front to rear wobble when coming to a stop. These symptoms get worse until I replace the pads and rotors once again. Going on my 5th set unfortunately.
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Old 12-22-2023, 07:42 PM #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILL.T4R View Post
Toyota said they couldn’t measure runout due to the rotor being slotted, saying the slots would interfere with the measuring gauge. Me stating they’re warping is from the signs and symptoms of previous rotors that were in fact replaced due to warping. ie. vibrations when braking and front to rear wobble when coming to a stop. These symptoms get worse until I replace the pads and rotors once again. Going on my 5th set unfortunately.
Ah but are you feeling pulse in the brake pedal? The wobble is more likely due to out of balance tires and wear on front end components. Been there and corrected that.

This is what happens when one simply throws parts at a problem without correctly diagnosing the cause of the problem.

Last edited by CutthroatSlam; 12-22-2023 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 12-22-2023, 07:54 PM #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CutthroatSlam View Post
Ah but are you feeling pulse in the brake pedal? The wobble is more likely due to out of balance tires and wear on front end components. Been there and corrected that.

This is what happens when one simply throws parts at a problem without correctly diagnosing the cause of the problem.
You know what.. Iíve never payed attention to it due to me focusing on the actual movement of the vehicle vs pedal. Iíll go drive a bit and report back. But yes you are 100% describing me. I have done multiple balances/road force balance. Replaced UCAs, inner/outer tie rod ends, Swaybar bushings, needle bearings to clamshell bushing. Almost every component with a bushing besides LCAs which look to be in good condition. Mainly due to shops not being able to find a problem and my hardheadedness in trying to find the perfect rideÖ
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Old 12-23-2023, 09:54 AM #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CutthroatSlam View Post
Ah but are you feeling pulse in the brake pedal? The wobble is more likely due to out of balance tires and wear on front end components. Been there and corrected that.

This is what happens when one simply throws parts at a problem without correctly diagnosing the cause of the problem.
No noticeable brake pulse. Just the front to back swaying of the vehicle when coming to a stop. What beats me is that during the first couple months or so of me having new brakes that motion is not present at all. As time progresses it turns into more pronounced shaking when hitting the brakes at higher speeds with very apparent brake pulse.
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Old 12-23-2023, 02:26 PM #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILL.T4R View Post
No noticeable brake pulse. Just the front to back swaying of the vehicle when coming to a stop. What beats me is that during the first couple months or so of me having new brakes that motion is not present at all. As time progresses it turns into more pronounced shaking when hitting the brakes at higher speeds with very apparent brake pulse.
We had substantial wobble under medium to hard braking from 70 mph down to 40 mph. Is there feathered wear on the outside edge of the front tires? If so, try rotating them. I just had this on the 2014 SR5 and rotating the tires eliminated it.

Then again I've had it happen periodically over the 343K miles on the vehicle. I've done the rotor replacement thing and have stopped doing that unless they are worn. It's mainly tire balancing followed by wear in front end parts. We also installed the ECGS bushing in the front transfer case and that helped. With front ends, it's typically the sum of a bunch of little things.
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Old 12-24-2023, 12:46 PM #42
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I didn't read all the replies, so I hope I'm not echoing here.

In my experiences with the T4R braking assembly, the calipers/pads are problematic in a couple ways:


The seals are prone to failure in areas of salt. This may or may not apply to you, but it's a thing (front and rear).

Heat kills seals. Duh

The pads that you buy these days, are not properly sized or shaped to fit these calipers properly. NONE of them.

Issues:
The pads are mass produced and the metal flange can be off or misshaped.
More importantly, the coatings they use end up leaving an oversized amount on on the contact area of the pad relating to the "slide" on the caliper.


Mitigation:
Sure, you can slam the pads in there. They will work. But over time they will willingly slide less and less till they inevitably stop returning and ride the caliper producing excessive heat, and the caliper will take a shit. $$$

I take some time and file down the pads where it contacts the caliper. I want them not so much loose, but free moving. When they heat up and expand, they will be slightly snug. Grease them appropriately.

Side note: I live in a winter salt hell. The only rotors and calipers I will use is Reybestos. The zinc (or whatever) coating they use holds up for a LONG time and they do not rust. The rotors last because I don't over heat them because the pads, and ultimately, calipers behave properly.


As far as downhill on long steep grades, people here have far more experience than I do. I'll defer
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Old 12-24-2023, 04:20 PM #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Argyle Edison View Post
I didn't read all the replies, so I hope I'm not echoing here.

In my experiences with the T4R braking assembly, the calipers/pads are problematic in a couple ways:


The seals are prone to failure in areas of salt. This may or may not apply to you, but it's a thing (front and rear).

Heat kills seals. Duh

The pads that you buy these days, are not properly sized or shaped to fit these calipers properly. NONE of them.

Issues:
The pads are mass produced and the metal flange can be off or misshaped.
More importantly, the coatings they use end up leaving an oversized amount on on the contact area of the pad relating to the "slide" on the caliper.


Mitigation:
Sure, you can slam the pads in there. They will work. But over time they will willingly slide less and less till they inevitably stop returning and ride the caliper producing excessive heat, and the caliper will take a shit. $$$

I take some time and file down the pads where it contacts the caliper. I want them not so much loose, but free moving. When they heat up and expand, they will be slightly snug. Grease them appropriately.

Side note: I live in a winter salt hell. The only rotors and calipers I will use is Reybestos. The zinc (or whatever) coating they use holds up for a LONG time and they do not rust. The rotors last because I don't over heat them because the pads, and ultimately, calipers behave properly.


As far as downhill on long steep grades, people here have far more experience than I do. I'll defer
Same here, I only use the top of the line Raybestos pads and rotors, and I do not live in a rust belt area.

As far as what to avoid, any rotor made in Pakistan:

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C1JVE...12dm1wdm4yaQ==

Last edited by CutthroatSlam; 12-24-2023 at 04:23 PM.
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Old 01-26-2024, 09:04 PM #44
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Follow up on wobble issue

After taking it to multiple Toyotas and two different off road shops. No one can figure out what my issue is. Even did another alignment, had all of the suspension/driveline checked, even had the master cylinder checked and calipers replaced out of getting desperate and nothing. Still wobbles when coming to a stop. Real close to giving in and selling. Only thing holding me back is these crazy rates.
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