The video posted shows exactly what happens when you don't back off the parking brake shoes as I mentioned in my previous post, the issue the guy has is he correctly used the bolts to help pull off the drum/rotor....BUT by not backing off the parking brake shoes he had a hard time getting it off, if the shoes were backed off properly once any rust between the drum/rotor is broken free the drum/rotor should come off relatively easy...but if you noticed in the video he had to keep using the bolts until it let loose of the parking brake shoes....when he says the spring retainer that secures the shoe came loose and was rubbing the back of the lugs....the retainer wasn't loose....what happened was by him forcing the drum/rotor off without backing off the parking brake shoes it pulled the brake shoe so hard it "straightened" the "pin" he showed (he claims it's the wrong pin, which it isn't) allowing the spring to push the spring retainer out far enough to rub against the back of the lugs/rotor.

So basically he created more work for himself that wasn't necessary because he failed to back off the shoes, I noticed he didn't show the pain in the butt it was to correct his mistake, it would of been nice if he had showed how difficult it is to replace that pin/spring and retainer with that axle flange in the way, it would stress how important it is to back off those shoes!!

I really don't think he was even aware that he caused that problem and needed to back off the shoes before removing the drum/rotor since he blamed it on the pin being the incorrect part!!

Driving a manual for the past (almost) 24 years, I can't remember the last time I didn't use the parking brake.

61 years young and I’ve owned manual transmission cars all my life. People ask how I do that in LA traffic? The answer is I don’t even think about it. Manuals are much funner to drive and they keep you engaged in the driving process as it’s not simply step and go.

Super easy job, jerseygeorge. Just make sure your parking brake is off. Use m8 (I believe) bolt to separate rotor from hub. Use brake cleaner to clean parking brake parts inside the drum. G.L.

Thanks friends. The job went pretty well. New front calipers, 4 rotors, all new pads. No major issues at all. The rear rotor parking brake is tricky to figure out. Difficult to stick a screwdriver in the hole and figure out how much you really turned it. Upon reassembly I did not tighten the brakes up enough and had no emergency brake. So off came tires and caliper. That was best way I found to turn the wheel and "feel the parking brake pads" as you adjusted. But the whole job went well, and I save a ton over the dealer.

JG

Count this as another saved from the stealer ship.

Well the full story. I go to dealer for NH inspection. "You need $1500 brake job to pass inspection". The rear brakes had one really shot set of pads, and the rotors were old and slightly scored. So no complaints.

They reported front pads down to 4mm. They are 7 or 8mm and the rotors in excellent shape. They said a front caliper was "dragging" or hanging up. It did not seem so to me. It compressed fine with a clamp. So I really feel as if they were using the failed inspection to get a lot more out of me than necessary. Have not decided next course of action, but I kept all the front parts.

I use mine to cut sh1tties in my older truck with the good old hand brake. In the 4runner I do use the emergency brake mostly on steep trail obstacles when I get out to decide my line since I always go solo, no spotter. Also when I'm doing mechanical work and have it jacked up or on ramps. Good job!! on saving your 1500$ and gaining valuable knowledge! 👍