I need to do this. So simply pushing the pedal(not pumping)while KOIO will force fluid out?

I know for a fact it does it on the rears (depress pedal with engine on) as I just did this last week. It does not take more than 2 to 3 seconds to flush each side.

I thought it does it for the fronts, but my memory could be wrong. If not, then simply do the old standby of one person pumping brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder valve.

Because the filter in the brake res is non-removable, you’ve got to pass a lot of old fluid through the lines. Doing the rears, with the assistance of the pump, makes this much easier. I feel like I still do 5-10 sessions at 20-30 seconds each to do this. Then the fronts are easy to gravity bleed since you’re only flushing the lines.
Again, gravity bleeding is using gravity to allow the old fluid to escape the system. You can do this simply by cracking the bleeders but it’s cleaner if you use tubing and a bottle but keep it above the bleeder valve so air can’t go back up into the system. I think it takes about 20-30 minutes each wheel for this part but you don’t need to monitor it very closely.

I’ve used this Toyota cap very successfully, along with a Motiv pressure tank:
Car Certified Tools Ba10 Small Toyota Master Cylinder Adapter

I have a Motive pressure bleeder that works great with the correct cap for the vehicle (I have the GM cap ).

For my 3rd gen T4R I bought the Motive "Universal cap" that has chains to secure it and didn't have any success with it. It was too large to work with the clutch master cylinder and getting a good seal on the brake MC was difficult.

So I bought this one man brake bleeder and it worked like a charm -

Amazon.com

This 3rd Gen T4R owner shows how it works -

Brake Fluid Bleeding / Flush (One Man) - 3rd Gen Toyota 4Runner - YouTube

I bought this thing called a wife to help with brake bleed jobs. She now has 3 homes, 2 4Runners and she knows how to pump the brakes.

Thanks

So I am more confused now since I posted this thread

1- Gravity
2- Vacuum
3- Pressure bleeder
4- pedal pump

Anyone knows what is the official Toyota maintenance procedure is?

Here is what I found in the service manual:

1. REPLACE BRAKE FLUID
(a) Turn the engine switch on (IG).
(b) Remove the brake master cylinder reservoir filler cap assembly.
(c) Add brake fluid until the fluid level is between the MIN and MAX lines of the reservoir.
(d) While depressing the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder RH, and then repeatedly depress the
brake pedal.
(e) Repeatedly depress the brake pedal until the air is completely bled, and then tighten the bleeder plug while depressing the brake
pedal.
Torque:
11 N·m {110 kgf·cm, 8 ft·lbf}
(f) Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.
(g) With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder RH, continue to hold the brake pedal and
allow brake fluid to be drained from the bleeder plug while the pump motor operates.
HINT:
Air is bled as the pump motor operates while the brake pedal is being depressed
Be sure to release the brake pedal to stop the motor after approximately 100 seconds of continuous operation.
As brake fluid is continuously drained while the pump operates, it is not necessary to repeatedly depress the brake pedal.
(h) Tighten the bleeder plug, and then release the brake pedal.
Torque:
11 N·m {110 kgf·cm, 8 ft·lbf}
(i) Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.
(j) Turn the engine switch off (IG).
(k) Inspect for brake fluid leaks.
(l) Check and adjust the brake fluid level (See page ).
(m) Clear the DTCs


one note if you replaced Brake booster with accumulator pump assembly, Brake master cylinder sub-assembly or
Brake master cylinder reservoir assembly
there is a note in that section that says:
CAUTION:
If air is bled without using the Techstream, damage or accidents may result. Therefore, always use the Techstream when bleeding
air.

Not sure what that means...

If you are doing the brake pedal pump, I always close the bleeder valve before the brake pedal is released because you can suck air back into the caliper. So it’s 1) open bleeder, 2) have wife depress the brake, 3) close bleeder valve at the end of the stream. Lather, rinse, repeat until all air is gone, or until the fluid coming out is light and clear in the case of total fluid change.

On the rears: 1) engine on, 2) open bleeder, 3) depress brake pedal, 4) close bleeder when air is purged or fluid is clear. This should take 10 seconds or less, not 100 seconds. You go for 100 seconds and I guarantee it will drain the fluid reservoir and you’ll be creating other problems with the ABS.

Do not over think this. I have done this a hundred times on various vehicles and it always works. Do not get anal about what the video car care nut guy says. He sounds Greek and by definition is anal.

I have no experience doing this, but I have watched the process a few times. The people doing this always left bleeder closed while the pedal was being pushed, then opened it at when the pedal was fully depressed, and closed it before the pedal was released. Is that incorrect?

1.) Open BMC Res Cap and make sure fluid is at max
2.) Engine on
3.) Open Bleeder Valve
4.) Push Brake Pedal
5.) Close Bleeder Valve
6.) Release Brake Pedal
7.) Repeat 3 - 6 till clean fluid comes through, but be sure to top off BMC reservoir as needed so it never goes below low line

That’s the two person version.

One person version requires a container with brake fluid filled a few inches, placed above the bleeder, and a tube from bleeder to below the brake fluid in the container. This allows you to repeatedly pump the brake pedal without need to close the bleeder because air is not introduced during upstroke of pedal. Make sure to keep BMC res above min line.

I have used the Motive Products bleeder over the years on several cars and trucks with good success.

Question:

Is there anything special you have to do on a 2015 4 Runner when using a Motive Pressure bleeder? For some reason, I am recalling there is something related to the ABS system ?

Thanks