[Skykomish]

This should be fun.



Some of this I've had in my rig for a while, some I just bought and some I made myself.

Power
200Ah LiFePO battery
Redarc Manager 30
Renogy 1000W inverter
Tesota Overland APDS
Blue Sea battery disconnect switch
Generic 40A solar disconnect
MRBF fuse block
Bunch of Wago 221 connectors

Comms
Peplink MAX BR1 Pro 5G
Dishy Dualie DC Power Supply
SpaceX Square Dishy
Yaesu FTM-400DR
Midland MXT115 (might replace this)
weBoost Drive 4G-X OTR (might replace this)

Misc
Libre Computer Board AML-S905X-CC
ScanGauge II & mount from BlendMount
Travel Buddy Oven
Flojet 3.8L/min water pump
2x Powerwerx 75A USB chargers
Few other low power USB chargers, 12v outlets, etc

Since this is a rebuild I've already got a bunch of the wiring in place already. The USB charger is powered from the aux battery with the cabling run down through the dash, center console and back to the rear. Mic and radio head is run under the driver seat along with a whole mess of coax.







Peplink Mobility 42G antenna and more coax routed through the driver side of the firewall







Start battery and ground connections through the passenger side of the firewall



Dishy ethernet connection

[Caspian_77]

Man! That is quite the antenna!

Ethernet port to Starlink?! That's awesome! Do you work remote and "Go into the office" from the trail?

Why so much Coax?

[4RExplorer]

Nice to see the Travel Buddy oven. That is a great oven. I cooked four Panko-breaded chicken drumsticks in mine, and they came out juicier than from my kitchen oven, maybe because the space in the Travel Buddy is so confined, keeping moisture in. The Pyrex 7212 glass food storage container fits in the oven perfectly, after removing the top tray of the oven.

The oven draws 10A, so it might be a little high for a 1000W inverter - maybe upgrade to 1200W or 1500W.

[Skykomish]

Originally Posted by Caspian_77

Man! That is quite the antenna!

Ethernet port to Starlink?! That's awesome! Do you work remote and "Go into the office" from the trail?

Why so much Coax?

The Peplink antenna looks kinda like a jellyfish when you take it out of the box. There are actually 7 antennas, each with a separate coax run - 4 cellular antennas, 2 WiFi antennas and a GPS antenna. The location on the hood was a compromise, really didn't have anywhere else I could put it where it wouldn't get damaged. In addition to that, I've got a GMRS antenna, 2m/70cm antenna, and both internal and external cel booster antennas...

I do work remote as a software engineer and have for many years. I lived in my rig full time for about 3 years and still travel for weeks/months at a time when I can. Starlink was a total game changer with the places I could get to and still have usable internet. The nicest thing about the Peplink router IMO is its dual SIM (I've got both Verizon and a MVNO SIM in there) and has a WAN port. When the WAN port comes up it will automatically switch over to that. So when I get into camp I just chuck Dishy on the ground, plug it in, flip a couple switches and that's it - now I'm talking to a satellite instead of a mobile tower. Between the two SIM cards and Starlink I rarely lose connectivity.

Originally Posted by 4RExplorer

The oven draws 10A, so it might be a little high for a 1000W inverter - maybe upgrade to 1200W or 1500W.

The oven is 12V, as is almost all of my gear. These days I really only use the inverter for running a blender and charging a gaming laptop. I considered upgrading but it's not critical gear for me.

[4RExplorer]

Originally Posted by Skykomish

The oven is 12V, as is almost all of my gear. These days I really only use the inverter for running a blender and charging a gaming laptop. I considered upgrading but it's not critical gear for me.

Of course it is 12V. I've been doing a lot of quick calculations with various 120V devices for my 1200W inverter, to see if I need to upgrade, and I went there with the 12V oven when I shouldn't have.

[Skykomish]

Roof solar input under the TrailerVision port and 12V power for accessories, 10 AWG for both. I used a Scanstrut DS-Multi instead of a cable gland - low profile and plenty of room for expansion. Since I had the headliner out anyway the install was pretty straight forward, just cut/drill some holes and screw it in.



Roof power just goes to a connector on the RTT for now, at some point I'm going to rig up some camp lights and a few other items as well.



Getting a start on the gear platform. I'll be building this up into a full drawer/storage system but still playing with ideas. I would be curious to get some input from y'all on this. If you've DIY'd a platform and/or drawers was there anything unique you did that you really liked or hated?

I am also considering options to modify the rear trim I've left off in these pics. With a full drawer system they end up covered anyway so why keep all that plastic there...

[Skykomish]

Finally got around to drawing up some brackets and sending them out for fabrication today. I'll have four of these, one for each of the four bolts where the front of the rear seat brackets normally sit. The platform will rest on top and bolt into these for support and hopefully prevent things from moving too far if I roll the truck or get in a collision.



Is there a vendor that makes a full platform that actually uses the seat bolt holes instead of just resting on the floor? The only ones I've found seem like they'd be super sketchy in a collision or rollover.