From what I found searching: ARP #100-715 Lexus IS300. They say they're a little longer... ordered 25 so I can do all four corners. I'll report back after I have them in hand and can compare to the removed OEM studs.

FWIW, I ordered these as well back in 2014 and they were far too long to use without open ended lug nuts, and I returned them.

What I have been using is gorilla's extended thread lug nuts, and using the rear stud part number in front, which are 10 or 15mm longer and offer much more thread engagement.

As far as torque wrenches go, lug nut torque accuracy isn't terrible important, what's more important is consistency so they are all at similar torque.

UPDATE:

• ARP doesn’t make anything that’ll fit without cutting them down and the knurl offering is a tad shorter than OEM

• The Napa ones suck. Not sure if it’s because I was working on the rig below freezing and the heat made from impacting the lugs in, but I snapped three while installing.

• My glass arrived from the port yesterday. Installing tomorrow.

How do you know that? Just because a digital readout says something doesn't mean that's the actual value. Without calibration against a known reference, you never know for sure.

You should be using red loctite on the oem studs. Spidertrax recommends coating the mating surfaces between the spacer and hub/brake rotor with antiseize, torque to 90 ftlbs then rechecked after a drive at 85 ftlbs. If any are loose, to completely start from scratch.

Its also good practice after having a wheel off to recheck torque after 50 miles. That way even if you missed a wheel, it will be found after a day or two.

Also good practice to do your star pattern, and then make another clockwise pass a second time just to be sure.

These methods are what I've done and I have yet to have a wheel fall off anything I work on.... and I work on semi trucks...

To answer your questions. #1 As long as there are threads from your wheel stud protruding out of the lug nut holding the spacer on, you should be fine. Again, maybe a good time to remove all spacers and follow the directions above. Not bad practice to work that into your maintenence on a yearly basis. It could be that every time you apply torque to the nuts holding the spacers on you are breaking down the chemical bond of the loctite if you are using any.

#2 Any wheel studs should work as well. There are minimum standards of strength that they have to be manufactured to in order to be sold in the first place. No one is going to be selling grade 5 studs to anyone, and I'm positive that when guys are installing their bolt on wheel hubs in their Tacomas that they are changing out their wheel studs with the ones they come installed with from Autozone, Napa or otherwise.

The OEM lug nuts are capped. You can't see if the threads are showing.

I was referring to the lug nuts that hold the wheel spacer on.

The oem lugs are shouldered and fit into the recess of the wheels providing ample clamping force.

Since you have the wheel and spacer off the truck anyways, measure the length of the oem stud and the stud on the wheel spacer, and they should be almost identical.

Wheel spacers would typically not come with studs shorter than factory.

I agree with everything you said, and happy to say that’s my SOP too ;)