Those bracket lifts are complete shit. If you take them on actual trails they fold up like a cheap suit.

I've got a buddy who runs 40's on his and i'm actually quite impressed by how little of the fender he's actually had to cut.

Now to be fair, he'd stripped his interior, tubbed his rear wheel wells to accommodate the wider, taller tires on the rear axle, added custom limit straps, completely removed his sway bars, removed his inner fender liners and no longer daily drives it, but it can be done.

my plan is for 35's when i'm due for new tires. I'll do the BMC, likely trim my fenders up a couple of inches, see if I need to remove any more fender liner, but it's not a big step to take. Wheel and tire combo, especially offset will play a big part in finding the sweet spot for articulation.

Here are the issues I see for myself going to 35's. I don't mind doing fiberglass wide fenders, but then id be tempted to do the long travel. the washer fluid bottle probably needs to be relocated as well but I am not sure if I have enough room for the relocation in any spot as I have a compressor on the passenger side and my dual battery too. inside the radiator support area I have cabling for the dual batteries, my winch and supercharger radiator. Going fiberglass fenders also does away with the fender liner which I don't like as mine will definitely fill with mud and salt/snow mix. I also would not want to be forced to need a snorkel for this reason.

I did the pinch welds when i stepped up to 35s.

I just recently bought the high clearance rocker caps; haven't installed yet.

I ran the BMC without welding for a year before I did a DRT relocate when I went to 35s.

I still rub the firewall just a bit, but the metal there is smooth and causes no issues.

This is very true but call me a suspension nerd, I wouldnt be ok with the loss of up travel.

Yes, if you have your suspension setup dialed correctly you want to use most of your travel. I see all these folks on here putting 700lb springs on their coilovers and I dont think they realize the negative impact it has on ride quality and articulation.

I really believe that 285/75/17 is the perfect tire size for the 5th gen. A good balance of extra clearance and lower impact on part reliability. Once these 35s wear out I will most likely downgrading to that size.

I actually have the 6112s with heavy load 700lb springs since I have a lot of weight. They still seem to articulate and handle well though since I think it is pretty well dialed in for the current weight.

I don't believe fiberglass fenders are necessary at all for 35" tires, it's actually not a big tire. Again, it all depends on what you're using the vehicle for. Mine is a daily driver and a trail rig, but it's not for show. Cutting fenders and trimming fender liners would be more than enough for me to run 35's, as long as the BMC was done, proper offset wheels were used, etc.

I understand if guys have newer, low mileage rigs and they want to keep them looking minty fresh, but i'm way passed that stage in life. It's a tool and i'll modify it to do a job. At this point, the pinstripes, dents and missing pieces are just trail badges. While 33's aren't big and I won't be a rock crawler anytime soon, they are a good enough tool to go most places I want, 35's will just make me less picky on what line I take, and leave my skid plates with less damage at the end of the day.

Washer fluid bottle relocation is easy as long as you don't need the same capacity bottle. It can me mounted literally anywhere and you can buy any bottle you want, or retrofit a milk jug if you're desperate (kidding). Just buy some rubber tubing bulk, some wire to extend the harness, find a spot to mount a new (smaller) bottle and put the pump in it.

I don't think theyre necessary but id rather pay that cost(small in comparison to OEM fenders) to not butcher my oem fenders. Or stay with 33/34 so none of that is necessary. As you said 35's would be a nice to have but not totally necessary. It would make picking lines easier.

What is "heavy load"? I have dual batteries, dual compressor, a bunch of offroad lights, solar controller, winch, full winch bumper. So probably one of the heaviest configs you can have and I'm running 650lb springs with zero preload at 2.5" in of lift. Hell I think I could probably get away with a 600 lb spring with some preload

I think the only time you would have to move up to a 700lb spring is if you have a similar setup and you're running an ultra heavy front bumper like an ARB. If you are looking to fine tune suspension I would give Ben @ Filthymotorsports or Accutune a call. They both are the most knowledgeable in this space and will probably recommend the same thing.

Love this quote, I think we need to send it to all of the folks who are playing offroad cosplay out there

"heavy load" springs are the 6112's that come with 700lb springs instead of the 650lb and are meant for 200lbs extra weight static according to bilsteins description.

all the same things you have + supercharger(90 lbs), and sometimes RTT when on longer trips. It was enough to bring my old 2883 springs(2 in lift down to no lift height. I am right at 3" lift height right now front and rear.

If you are happy with your setup and it works for you, then there is no need to change it.

Although the internet experts want you to believe that their way is the only way to go about things, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

Yea no plans to change it as I still get good articulation and it maintains the lift I wanted. It's a pretty balanced setup right now so at this point the last piece for me is just new tires whether upsizing from 285/70 or not. But there is always a point that it is diminishing returns. I think as you have mentioned before 285/75(34s) is a good compromise and a pretty ideal size for this platform