Isn't that kind of the point of this forum? To get opinions from folks who've had experience in these things we're asking about? I know that is the value I've gotten from this place all these years. I never said I was an expert in suspension hence my recommendation to talk to Filthy Motorports or Accutune.

As an aside I'm a heavier setup than the OP and used to run 700lb springs and 3in of lift myself. After talking to Ben @ Filthy Motorsports I begrudgingly agreed to try new coilovers with a 650lb spring and reduced lift height to 2.5". Night and day difference in ride quality and articulation.

A great way to accomplish this is to go with a LT kit from Wicked Creations, Marlin Crawler, or Total Chaos. These kits move the front wheels forward, away from the rocker/fender area. May need to clearance the front bumper more, but solves the fender issue.

I for sure appreciate everyone's opinions here on the forum and it is very helpful. As far as suspension setup I am enjoying it as it is so the only reason I would change it is to go with +2" or more long travel setup. I just upgraded to this setup from 5100's/ome springs last year so it is relatively new and fits my current needs. The metaltech rear long travel is great and I have taken it beyond its articulation limits already, but I don't see any equivalent for the front except maybe a +4.5" front LT kit.

The reason I would consider fiberglass fenders to make room to do LT in the future. I also hate to cut up OEM parts and would rather just buy replacement parts when modding and save the OEM parts on the side if needed later. The rig definitely gets used as it is my camping/fishing/hunting vehicle, but I try to keep it in good condition and maintained as I would like to keep it for 20 yrs. It is not daily driven except on snowy days in winter(like now lol).

I think our weights are probably pretty similar. I have a Warn front with winch, full armor, sliders, supercharger, ARB dual compressor, dual batteries, fridge, SSO rack, RTT, rigd hitch carrier with 2 jerry cans and a fridge.

I have been spending more time modding my other car so the 4runner has taken a back burner since I barely drive it.

That would probably be my next mod if I decide to go down that rabbit hole eventually.

For sure, you can also throw in the new 74Weld portals into that mix. So many options out there for our platform these days which is great. One thing to consider though is the maintenance upkeep and reliability impact a lot of these aftermarket parts introduce with heavy offroad use. I seem to be changing out a bushing or a spherical bearing on something almost every few months.

You forgot about my 300 lb rear bumper, propane tank and mount, 100 lbs of tools and spare parts

For the use case you describe I would probably stick as close as you can to OEM style parts. It's always a balance of capability, decreased reliability, increased maintenance etc. It's up to you to figure out what the optimal balance is for your specific use case.

I also carry about 50lbs of tools and a propane tank but no spare parts. but close enough! lol

Most of my sketchy offroad situations are when hunting, mostly trying to get to places that other people wouldn't go which is why I want to increase capability. will probably go up to 34's for now(if they release the AT4w's in 285/75 soon) and consider further supporting mods like full LT front, regear and wide fenders before moving up to 35's if ever.

Yea it's all a balance, but it helps going forward with mods knowing I never plan to get rid of the 4runner. I am especially rethinking reliability and reinforcement of all things like spindle gussets etc after i got stranded in the middle of nowhere on my last trip(though that was due to a failed throttle body).

As for the 74Weld portals or others for that matter, it's a path I considered before my SAS. There are pros and cons to everything and I'm happy I have the 14 bolt axle up front. For sure it's not for everyone but the cost of the 74Weld is high and you could easily get a d60 up front with lockers, gearing and links for less.

I'm also very heavy but I'm dumping my drawers and organizing tools and liquids differently. All in my pig is in the 6700# range and I use the snot out of it on the trails.

It's all about what you want to do with your rig. Most of you have vehicles road legal, mine is not. It could be, I just need dot tires

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You can drive it on the road with those tires! I'm originally from Hawaii and all the old school toyota truck guys used to drive 85 toyota pickups on 38" swampers daily lol.

Yea that sucks. I try to avoid unprotected spherical bearings if possible because here the road salt would kill them quick. That is what made me go with the 6112's up front instead of matching Icon's. If icon made coilovers in aluminum to match the 2.5" VS(aluminum) series resi rears i have i would have got them. I wanted the new Fox Performance Elite series because they are aluminum but they weren't out at the time I was shopping. Thought at this point I would probably need to order custom rears for the long travel.

Oh I have but it's not fun. With the pending new engine it will be another thing

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I have been running 295s which actually do measure to 33.5 and most 285s are smaller. Just saying.

I know run 35 Toyo MTs and I did the BMC, viper cut and added some 3d printed front bottom quarter panel plastic... Running BILSTEIN 8112s in the front and Dobinsons MRR long travel in the rear.

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Had to lift it 6" and regear it to 4:88.

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ill classify myself as a mall crawler and own it - unfortunately Wisconsin doesnt have a lot of off road trails... My "rig" is mainly used for carrying the ol braap braap bike to trails in UP - so it does see mud etc but not tons of flexing to argue against anyone on status.

That being said - i am running 35s (toyo at3s). I come from the car scene with throwing obnoxious wheels that dont fit and air ride suspension

Ive spoken to TRDHulk before, he is right alignment is key. Ive gone from 285s>295s>305s>35s

Each time from 295 to 35 youll have to cut more.
I am running almost all of my inner wheel well cover and end caps (although they are gutted pretty good).

Did have to cut back the pinch weld tabs pretty good behind the rocker caps - luckily right now my fenders are still aligned after smoking some dips offroad pretty good...

lots of trimming back the front bumper and hacking away metal attachment points - but dont rub full lock reverse or forward.
*EDIT - also flattened pinch welds on lower 6-8" on the bottom*

Can help whoever is looking just dm me - everyones probably right and know that if i were to take it out west it would be mangled upon return.


flame me roast me... dont really care, my names on the title not yours :-)

It looks good to me! Thanks for the detailed reply and your description. It seems like there are a lot of people on reddit etc I see posting having 35's and not cutting fenders which is what prompted the question for me. But they probably are not fully flexing out offroad either.

I definitely will need to use it offroad so that is where I see it being a problem from everyone else's replies. I live in CO and camp, fish and hunt with occasional trips out to NM and UT so I need to retain offroad capability without totally mangling the fenders. I am trying to be practical and realistic but it's hard to not want to push it a bit further.

i think the realistic solution is 285/75 unless I am ready to go all out and do LT and wide fenders.

I understand where you're coming from though as my old project car(g35) has air and I used to run crazy wheels with lots of camber as well. I eventually got over that and put some normal fitting wheels on it but it just sits on a lift in my garage now. My new daily RS5 is more practically(adult) modded lol.