For those that don't know, RRW makes a Hybrid beadlock wheel. The rings can be mounted as a protection ring, or as a true beadlock ring; simply change where the bead of the tire is mounted and the length of the mounting bolts.

I don't like the painted black bolts RRW provides.

I want some nice, 12 point polished stainless hardware, but the ARP bolts I want will cost almost $400 for all 4 wheels. Bolts are M8 x 1.25 (25 bolts per wheel)

Anyone have a source to either get ARP bolts cheaper, or another reputable bolt that would work as a substitute that's 12 point and polished?

i get practically all my hardware from McMaster
They have the M8 1.25 x 25 in stainless 12pt but they are high
They have all sorts of stainless shoulder bolts, socket head cap screws, ect ect.

$45 total for stainless 25mm socket head cap screws
McMaster-Carr

$146 for super corrosion resistant stainless socket head cap screws, resist chemicals and salt
McMaster-Carr

$125 for the low profile head stainless cap screws, they look nice i use these in some projects
McMaster-Carr

$276 for the heavy weight 180,000 psi 12pt bolt in black, just take them to the body shop and paint them body color or paint them yourself, order a teflon socket so you dont scratch them up.
McMaster-Carr

I have painted TONS of bolts over the years in show car/truck stuff. Poke holes in cardboard and stick the bolts in with the head exposed, paint them, clear them, bake them, and use teflon sockets so you dont maul the paint up. Are you using these to actually work as beadlocks or look-alikes? I assume look-alikes cause a 25mm bolt isnt going thru the beadlock ring, past the lip of the bead, and into the wheel i dont think. If you ARE using these as true beadlocks i would forgo the stainless, its a crap ton softer and you are highly likely to pop the heads off or gall them in the aluminum wheel which is why i suspect nobody uses stainless bolts in beadlocks, everybody uses Grade8 hardware or better.

Looks like for $359 you can get all titanium from a reputable seller
Titanium M8 Bolt Anodized Color Hex Flange Head 15,20,25,30,35,40,50,55,60,90MM | eBay


AND if you wanna go with a questionable seller you could get titanium for $220
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256121578370

THIS IS THE WAY TO GO^^^
I always use McMaster-Carr for a certified stainless or grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers. The Unknown cheap stuff from (Chyna) gives you no guarantees as to the quality you are buying.
FWIW: ProBolt.com does a great job on titanium (in Colors or silver)
Just get your $$$ out Ti is not cheap!!

Good Luck
Amlor

Thank you for the detailed reply!

Unfortunately the provided links don't pull up the specific bolts; they go to the main page.

It looks like the best route to go for polished stainless 12 point is still ARP, unless I missed something.

I don't want painted bolts; that my problem now. After going through mud one time, the paint rubs off and the bolts look horrible. Stainless wont look bad no matter what; and 12 points are pretty lol

I have gotten hardware from McMaster too. Good source.

1. Just keep in mind that no stainless can be as strong as high strength steel.

2. At that price, those are not pure titanium. They may be titanium coated so they look nice.

From my experience building some classic cars with forged motors, ARP is always the way to go for hardware.

There item description for the ARP bolts:

"ARP's Bulk Metric Thread Bolts are the premium quality you would come to expect from ARP, now allowing you to fasten almost anything on a car, boat, trailer and more. These specially alloyed stainless steel bolts and heat-treated 8740 chrome moly bolts with black oxide finish are nominally rated at 180,000 psi tensile strength to provide a substantial amount of extra safety over grade 8 hardware. Available in sizes from M6 to M12."

Shooot its a Chy'Na supplier shipping in a JiffyPack. So what if its anodized aluminum, its light weight right?
I used to use titanium in drag stuff years past in one of my builds, it was insane high 2003-2005, but even in todays inflated prices it seems like its cheaper than it was back then. It seems the price kinda climbed thru about 2008 and then over the next 10 years got cheaper and cheaper. Now post covid era, i think Ti is about where it was 20 years ago maybe but there are so many people using it, its available in almost anything from anywhere.
These china suppliers running parts thru warehouses full of CNC machines are making parts for pennies. Its been a while but i saw HAAS post a picture of a company in China, it was a building the size of a super walmart, easily 2+ acres of floor space that was packed wall to wall with HAAS CNCs, bar feeders, ect spitting out parts. These bolts might be a low quality Ti, they are so cheap you can always order one and put it to the grinder test and see what color is sparks before buying a bunch of them. Being from Chy'Na you are not going to get factual PSI yields or any of that but if you are just trying to look pretty they will likely do anything you would need and be as light as aluminum.

Correct, always the way it has been.

Hey boss you might wanna read the fine print, i think you may have missed it. They roped two sentences worth of stuff, into one sentence. There should have been a comma or period between the stainless and black oxide stuff, cause the stainless isnt even rated, even on ARP website. Only the black oxide is rated at 170,000 psi. Funny think is APR website doesnt give the logistics, you can find it on JEGS though using the APR part number.

Stainless has no indication of its tensile strength
The Official ARP Web Site | Kits
Just a moment...

chromoly black oxide steel has no indications on ARP site but says 170,000psi on Jegs site
The Official ARP Web Site | Kits
Just a moment...

Just from my experience, and i dont wanna say i am an expert in bolts, but i have worked with them before. Stainless is never and i mean NEVER as strong as steel, it stretches far more easily and pops the heads of bolts off much quicker and stretches the threads with a quickness if you get on it too hard. If this is just for show, then rock and roll dont pay it any attention, but if this is actually going to be a beadlock ring tension bolt, i would for sure prefer something beefier.

Thanks! This is really good info. And upsetting lol

Found a guy on Instagram doing the same thing I am trying, but he did it to some custom TE37s

I'm picking his brain a little but looks like has no issues with the polished bolts used on the beadlocks

Thats pretty serious. Learn something new every day.