Running 33s, re-geared (when was running 35s) with Magneson s/c getting 11.8 mpg and considering dropping weight my CBI sliders, Winch, ARB Utility Rack, rear single side locking drawer, full RCI skids including diff skid and leaving the spare at home unless long trip. Total weight savings would be approx 720lbs plus aerodynamics savings without roof rack.

Anyone with this experience dropping weight ballpark idea on if I can get back to 16mpg? Also part of the thought process on this would be ride quality and better acceleration, brake distance with 700+ less pounds.

the roof rack alone seems to help a lot when i remove ours for summer time. i wanna say 2mpg. it's also pretty easy to remove and store. (prinsu for us)

you are geared 18% lower than stock
Your current tires are only 6% taller than stock
Your roof rack and high RPM are likley the main culprits
I have a 32.xx x 12" wide tire on my 4r and with my wife driving she gets about 15.5-16 and when i drive it i get around 18-19

I would think the wind resistance hurts you as much or more than the overall weight. Yes, less weight is less load, and easier to pull, but i think the aero is where the biggest load is at speeds. For example, i work on ATV and SxS all day every day, a Polaris Ranger 900 (very common SxS) will lose 7-8mph off its top speed when you put a windshield on it. The windshield produces so much drag, that the 77hp twin cylinder 900cc engine simply cant pull the machine as fast and you lose about 7-10mph on average. Adding larger heavier tires, a full roof, stereo, more weight and more drag, its not uncommon to lose 15+mph off top speed. The same thing with your vehicle, load robs power and wind resistance produces load and load is harder to push thru the wind so the engine has to work harder.

i had the (Magnuson) TRD S/C on my 2008 tacoma, and i had 305/50-20 (32.5x12) and could typically get 16mpg every tank, and if i was nice to it i could see as high as 19mpg.

When you take off the roof rack, you must put on the roof rack delete kit: Amazon.com

Otherwise, you will get water through the roof, the headliner will get stained, and any electrics (side curtain air bags) will get ruined. The OEM I cited is the best.

The supercharger, aerodynamic hits of the mods, and extra rolling resistance of the larger, heavier tires are your biggest MPG culprits. The sprung weight of all your little extras is a minor component of MPG.

Do not remove your spare tire. That will net you somewhere between a quarter and one-half of one mpg. Not worth it. Chase more compelling gains that don't compromise the truck.

Driving habits affect mpg a lot, and I can't imagine you drive and accelerate a supercharged 4Runner as slowly as I drive a non-S/C'd one. Isn't lower MPG considered a pay-to-play trait of supercharging the already thirsty 4.0L? You could try accelerating slower and cruising a slower speed on highway driving, if applicable.

Prinsu Rack?? Its so damn light and aerodynamically designed compared to many racks out there. Not sure you lose or gain 2MPG... I am coming from full basket Baja roofrack to Prinsu.. Now that was night and day!

Rigging up the 4runner basically modification by modification, Hands down the BIGGEST culprit will be bigger tires. (excluding s/c). Then the front bumper or roof top tent.