Set out to replace my brakes today including calipers and ss lines.

Started on the front right, got the rubber line converted to ss. btw - the rubber plugs that come with the stop tech lines dont seem to really stop the dripping, just slow it. Nor are they caps that go on the hard line.

Next I went to the bottom 17mm holding the caliper to the (unknown part) steering knuckle? hub? and it was pretty tight. Gave my 3/4 in drive a couple of whacks with a rubber mallet since I dont have a true breaker bar.

bolt sheared in half.

FML and 50k other expletives.

need to ID the part number the calipers bolt to and see if I can replace it myself or continue doing what I can and have it towed to a shop.

I'm searching the interwebs but figured this might be faster. Any help id'ing is appreciated.

think i found the right part...

https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/T...321160200.html


anyone want to speculate on the chances of using a bolt extractor to get that bolt out? ...so I dont have to replace the steering knuckle.

It shouldn't be that hard to drill the broken bolt with progressively larger bits until only a thin portion of the threaded section remains at which point should be easily removable, afterwards you may have to use a tap to clean up the threads.

Very much worth trying instead of buying another knuckle and paying to have it installed!!

Is the bolt broken below the surface or is it exposed?

it's exposed but barely a nub...not enough to grip with visegrips.

i bought a bolt extractor kit from lowes...

between the bolt not steering off flat and all of the suspension and steering linkage in the way, I couldn't get a flat seat with a standard drill and bit.

rather than F it up more I finished the brake job and just dropped it at the mechanics to see if they can extract it. if not they'll drill and tap it. and if that doesn't work a new steering knuckle will be in my future.

Drill the bottom out progressively and it should come out. Them spindles arent cheap and thats a lenghty swap time.

For reference, you said you were using a 3/4 drive?

The saying goes "We wrench not because it is easy but because we thought it would be easy".

First soak for a day with PB Blaster or 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone. Then hit it good with a mapp gas torch before attempting to break it loose.

debated changing the rear brakes this past weekend. I watched a few videos and read this as well, the breaker bar did the job for me. I initially sprayed all bolts with pb blaster and then used the breaker bar. I enjoyed projects when they go smooth but always one bolt away from a 30-45 minute job into an all day issue. Could probably have used an impact wrench too

That's why I love this forum: hugely entertaining:
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Started on the front right, got the rubber line converted to ss. btw - the rubber plugs that come with the stop tech lines dont seem to really stop the dripping, just slow it. Nor are they caps that go on the hard line.

Next I went to the bottom 17mm holding the caliper to the (unknown part) steering knuckle? hub? and it was pretty tight. Gave my 3/4 in drive a couple of whacks with a rubber mallet since I dont have a true breaker bar.

bolt sheared in half.

FML and 50k other expletives.

need to ID the part number the calipers bolt to and see if I can replace it myself or continue doing what I can and have it towed to a shop.

I'm searching the interwebs but figured this might be faster. Any help id'ing is appreciated.
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