Hi all,

I know there is a ton of info on this. I have read most of it before posting a new thread, but most existing threads relate to lifting and off-road use.

My 21 year old daughter just bought a 2015 limited 4WD V6 with 112k miles. We knew going in that it had leaky x-reas shocks, but everything else is very, very clean, so we went ahead.

We want to delete the x-reas and would like some advice on what to replace with. Her priorities are:

- On-road driving in Michigan. So, snow / ice in winter, but otherwise blacktop.
- Regular ride height (Limited or SR5 are fine, just not "lifted" look, she is short)
- Balanced ride - smooth, not too stiff, not too much body roll.
- Keep the stock Limited lower profile rims and tires.
- Prefer not to spend extra for off-road capability / adjustability unless they improve the items above.
- No alignment issues going forward
- Me to do the labor so not too many variables, or maybe a local shop
- Don't love the sounds of the "brake dive" mentioned in various setups.
- Mostly drive the truck on her own, occasionally fill all 3 rows with friends.
- Don't want to do new x-reas and replace it all again in 50k miles

From what I have read (correct me if I'm wrong), the options, from budget to mid-tier are:
1. SR5 shocks from the same year and keep all existing springs.
2. Bilstein 5100 front and rear, existing springs
3. Bilstein 5100 front and rear, FJ springs up front (hard to source?)
4. Bilstien 6112 up front, 5100 in back (what one 4WD shop recommended)

I was leaning toward option #2 as it sounded like a good balance of budget and usability. But I worry about dive and roll.

#3 sounds like it's hit and miss to find low mile FJ springs any more and may alter ride height.

#4 seems like a no-brainer, but to get a pro to install them that's about $2300 and it might be overkill.

I'd love some advice / feedback on my thinking here, or any things I haven't considered.

Lastly, I have read I may need to go to a thicker sway bar to reduce body roll after removing x-reas - is that really needed? There was not a lot of consensus on that.

Thanks for re-hashing a different version of this!

Option 2. Bilstein 5100s and stock springs.

Brake dive is a non-issue, unless you expect it to perform like a Porsche 911 and also have off-road capability and shock travel. Obviously the two are mutually exclusive, so don’t listen to those with sports car expectations for a truck based SUV.

I have dealt with a failing XREAS system on both my 4th gen 2003 Limited and my 5th gen 2011 Limited. Both times it was what might be called a catastrophic failure in that the hydraulic fluid lines within the system had corroded so badly (winter road salt up here in Canada) that the lines failed in certain areas and too much fluid had escaped.

Since I did not have the advantage of a slow leak to better prepare and shop around for suspension parts, on the 2003 I went with a replacement Toyota OEM SR5 setup and with the 2011 I went aftermarket. Replacing the XREAS system with a new XREAS is far too costly.

Any reputable aftermarket shocks will do, although this forum seems to like the Bilstein setups.

You may want to consider new springs as well (while you are in there, so to speak) since they are 9 years old. I kept my old springs with my 2011 XREAS replacements. The 2003 replacement was trickier because of the RAS (rear air suspension).

I did not change out the sway bar in either XREAS replacement.

I wouldn't say that I have noticed a significant difference between the XREAS and standard suspension ride. I understand the premise behind the XREAS, but its premature failure in my two cases was less than ideal.

When disconnecting/removing the XREAS, you can leave the hydraulic fluid lines on your 4Runner if you like (that's what I did). Just try to drain those lines as best as possible before capping off.

You also mention winter driving in Michigan on the 20 inch Limited rims. I would consider an all-weather (snowflake rated) set of tires. I run my 20 inch Limited rims with Michelin all-season tires in the summer then swap out to 17 inch TRD Off Road rims with Toyo winter tires when the snow flies.

option 3 and 4 are more for offroad use. the 6112s are beefy, they will be fine on pavement but you are spending $ on features you will not use

I don't see the need to replace the springs, unless they are worn or broken. I'd suggest replacing rear and front if you wanted a more off road oriented ride, definitely would with option 4.

option 2 will probably have less brake dive than option 1. it's a truck, it will behave like a truck. I would do option 2 assuming cost was reasonable. you can leave the hard lines in, I would take them out if you're paying someone to do the work - they are easy to access when wheels are off and vehicle is on a lift. but that's a personal preference

Thank you all for your replies and sorry for the radio silence. Notifications were going into spam and I thought everyone was tired of this topic!

So it sounds like Option 2, Bilstein 5100 all around and original springs.

I appreciate the extra color as well about the reasons for moving away from x-reas.

Happy for it to drive like a truck. As you can see from my signature, she's coming from a 3rd gen, which is smaller, but still truck-y.

I have really appreciated this forum over the years and this is no exception. Thank you for taking the time. I will update some time after I get my hands on the truck (this weekend).

(edit for Bossman) - thanks for the tire note. Weirdly the previous owner just put fresh Blizzaks on it, even though the truck is currently in Los Angeles. And it's July. I don't want to hijack this thread but understand those are not for hot pavement, so I will have to post separately about what to do there! She's young so doesn't have the space or money to get new all seasons for summer, plus store the Blizzaks on spare rims and then change out for every winter.

Running the dedicated winter Bridgestone Blizzak tires year round will definitely wear down the tread in the warmer months. The softer rubber compound used in winter tires is designed to maintain flexibility and thus traction in much colder temperatures.

If you have a good relationship with a local tire shop, they may be able to work a deal if you trade in your fresh Blizzaks for a set of all-weather tires.

The problem becomes the 20 inch Limited rims with a 245/60R20 tires have few good options for all-weather tires.

A compromise could be the all-season Michelin Defender LTX M/S2. They have a nice ride and would be decent in the winter. I run these as my summer tires, but would not be afraid to use them in winter if I had to (like if we get an early snow storm and I haven't changed over to my winter Toyos).

Some people like an AT tire year round, but those will ride a little harsher on pavement and are meant more for off-road use.

I'll agree with the Defenders as a potential future replacement. My '15 Limited had a fresh set on them when I bought it ~3 years ago. Have no complaints. Great on pavement, reasonable road noise, never made me feel uncomfortable in rain, minimal wear after 30k miles. I don't off road hard but have family in northern Michigan well off paved roads that we take frequent trips to see and the Defenders have always done everything asked of them regardless of the season.

said it before and I'll say it again. defenders are underrated and a great tire

Thanks guys. This forum steered us to Michelin Defender LTX M/S for her 2WD 3rd gen and it was great advice.

Compared to the cool looking, chunky (Kenda?) ATs she had before, the Michelins really helped her in most snow conditions last winter.

Ultimately, the light rear end / 2WD combination was no match for icy days, but we think the 5th gen AWD system plus Michelins will be great once the Blizzaks (unfortunately) wear down due to her driving on them this fall.

Unless of course any of you know about a cheap steely that's the same dimensions and offset as the Limited alloys! We could find some in a junkyard and move the Blizzaks to those... ;)

if you see heavy winters, the defenders won't compare fairly against the blizzaks which are a dedicated winter tire. for lighter warmer winters they will be ok. but in the deep cold with hard packed icy snow a dedicated winter will be best. you could also go 17" steelies with winter tires, that combo will be much easier to source

Thanks Humble. I will move this over to a new post.

I have Bilstein 5100s from shocksurplus.com in my cart. Speaking with them (they're very helpful and knowledgeable), they said that I'd need new strut mounts in front because they have a bushing pressed into them which is likely worn out on our truck. The ones they offer are KYB SM5640 and they come out at $69 for 2 if added at time of purchase. the Toyota part is about that price for 1.

1. Is this a thing, replacing these? Nothing I had read mentioned it.
2. Can I buy just the bushing on its own, or is it integral to the factory fitted strut mount?
3. Are the KYBs decent, given that they're cheap?
4. Am I opening up an entirely new can or worms?

Remember, I'm looking for stock ride height, daily driver, road use, short girl truck!

Thanks!
Patrick

I have 20" Blizzaks on stock Limited wheels, Wildpeaks on ORP wheels for summer. Blizzaks are great but will just get destroyed in temps above 45F.

Get non-winter tire and keep Blizz's for winter.

yea its a thing but not that common.. i've done it on other vehicles. honestly, the pre assembled option is amazing. sure youre paying more for labor and fresh coil springs, but the swap is crazy easy at that point. Wheelers offroad offers assembly.

x3 on the Michelins. i'm currently running general grabber apt's or atp's (whatever) on my f150 and theyre crazy smooth and quiet. for another option.

Great, thank you. I have received the Bilstein 5100s for front and rear. I could not order the new strut mounts with the shocks/struts as they were out of stock but same brand (KYB) is available from local Autozone. I am planning to keep the stock springs, so pre-assembled wasn’t in the plan or budget.

This weekend I’ll pull it apart, remove the X-REAS system and borrow a strut spring compressor from Autozone.

Once I have the strut mounts out I’ll see if they need replacing, but I’m assuming may as well once its all apart?