I've got a 2016 SR5 with 175K miles and my lower control arm bushings are shot. From what I've read, the cam bolts are likely seized and will probably need to be cut out. The only cutting I've done on my 4runner was recently cutting the UCA ball joint stud off with an angle grinder. Sounds like this job is better done with a sawzall though and I've convinced myself to do it, lol.

I couldn't find any youtube videos of someone cutting them out on a 4runner, so looking for any tips I can find from people who've done it. Planning on using a Dewalt DCS382B with Diablo carbide tipped blades. Trying to foresee anything that can go wrong. Thanks!

If it were me, and I absolutely found no other way to get it out and had to cut, I think I would try an oscillating tool with carbide blades before I used a reciprocating saw or grinder. It would be far more controllable and compact to get in there. I've cut bolts with one before, but not quite as beefy as one of those bolts. I think a good quality tool would do it with high quality blades, but you might go through some blades.

Still I would soak those down with penetrating oil for several days and several times and try with a strong impact first, then move to heat if I had to. Then, last ditch would be cutting.

All this.

For an oscillating tool, my son has a Dremel Multi-max that would work perfect. All kinds of blades available for it.

Don't cheap out on the blade. I speak from experience.

I cut mine off with an electric drill with 4" cut-off wheel, took a couple of wheels as I recall.

havent done the toyota, but did the nissan about 8 years ago. it took a few blades on the sawzall but its pretty easy.

I've cut off LCA on 4Runners before, we usually use a combination of 6" grinder disk, sawzall, and air hammer to get in there between the bushing and brackets. If you nick something a welder helps, but I know not everyone has those around.

2nd vote for first trying to soak the nuts. Use a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Repeated treatments over a couple days, then hit it with a heat wrench (welding torch or MAPP gas torch) followed by the impact.

Thanks. Above I called it the cam bolt but that was as a bit misleading. It is actually the sleeve that the bolt goes through that is likely to get seized and needs to be cut between the mount and the LCA. A dremel wheel isn’t long enough to get in there. An angle grinder is big enough but I think there are too many places for the wheel to hit and kickback. I think that’s why almost everything I’ve read suggests using a sawzall.

Thanks, cutting is definitely a last resort. I’ve heard of people messing up the mounts using heat to try to get the sleeves out.

Just found that Wanderlost Overland has a video where he cuts off his LCAs. It’s at 12:00 in the following video:

https://youtu.be/VF68mNIZYBU?si=QY0hC5w1ZQV-E0dC

He doesn’t run into any issues but looks a bit stressed when it’s finally done. Makes me feel a bit better about stressing over it 🤣

I used a corded sawzall and diablo carbide metal blades. I was able to cut through them quite quickly and it wasn't as bad as I thought. Just keep a decent amount of pressure to push down while it's cutting and wear some gloves.


The first cut will be the most nerve wracking but once you're used to it, you'll zip through the rest.

Nice, just need 10 more people to tell me that and I’ll be ready, lol.

Finally tackled this today. Had to make 8 cuts, 2 on the front and 2 on the rear for both sides, they were all seized (175k on my 4runner.). FWIW this was my first time using a sawzall/reciprocating saw.

My tips for anyone else doing this:

1) I did it with 3 Diablo carbide tipped blades for my Dewalt sawzall. Having 5-6 blades would have made it easier. When cutting I was only using the last 3 or so inches of the blade. When the blade started not cutting as well I considered shortening the blade with an angle grinder to get to the fresh teeth near the saw, but ended up just powering through.

2) I was glad to have a 5Ah battery for my sawzall. It took a while. I recharged it after the first one was complete. I think my 2Ah battery would not have made it through one side.

3) Have some ratchet straps handy. My second LCA was badly seized and would not drop which made it difficult to get to the areas I needed to cut. However it would flex on the bushings. I cranked a ratchet strap around the LCA and around the opposite tire to pull the LCA temporarily out of the way while making the cuts. After the first 3 cuts the LCA was really floppy and cutting was treacherous. A couple ratchet straps to hold everything in place made it much safer.

Also, I found it easier to remove the ball joint cotter pin and loosen the ball joint castle nut before removing the LCA. Likewise I found it way easier to torque the lower shock mount and the cam bolts while the truck was on jack stands before putting the tire on. Trying to torque the cam bolts to 129 lbs with the truck on the ground and the tire on seems impossible.

Cheers!