Did you have lots of carbon/soot on the tailpipe?

Have you tested for blow by - basically open the oil fill plug, put a rubber glove over it, see if it inflates while running. If not - that tends to point away from rings and toward valves. Excessive blow by could result in more oil burning via the EGR system.

I would personally start with a heavy dose of fuel system cleaner and see if it's an issue with valve carbon buildup. That's unlikely with a port injection engine, but if it's valves that's possibly the only thing you can really do before pulling it apart.

If it has piston ring issues - you could look inside with a scope to see if the cylinder walls are scored. If you see issues - you kinda know at that point you're looking at an engine. I would tend to swap a low mile used one vs a rebuild.

Good luck.

Edit: just watched the video,

Hard to tell from the video what the smoke smells like or how it looks in person. It also kinda looks like it could be over-fuel on startup. If it's unburned fuel it could be an over-fuel on startup from a variety of issues like injectors, spark plugs, dirty air filter, air flow sensor, etc. Have you checked the air filter? Pulled spark plugs? (Do any of them look different from the rest?)

I haven't looked. I will later. Thanks

I haven't done anything except a block test to make sure it wasn't a coolant issue and visual tests. Everyone has provided great recommendations that I'll take back and try, including these. Thank you.

Edit: The smoke smells like oil, or at least to me it is more oil then antifreeze. The air filter looks new, probably just replaced with the oil change.

From what you said in this post, I would lean towards valve seals, bad valve seals can make it smoke on startup but also in stop and go traffic, the engine is running slow enough for oil to get passed a bad valve seal/s.

I would be very surprised if the rings have gone bad, they are metal and aren't affected from sitting unless it sat a very long time and then a ring or two could possibly get stuck but if that's your problem it would be smoking constantly, valve seals are rubber and can very easily get hard from sitting and not seal well after running again.

This was my assumption when I purchased it, or at least what I was hoping as worse case scenario. This if my son's car. He had another 2015 SR5, but rear ended someone and totaled it. The new one runs just as good as his old one, so I don't feel like there are any performance issues, which I would suspect would be present if it was an issue with the rings.

So I may be jumping to far ahead, but are there any resources out there that show the method for replacing the seals? I found one that was for a similar engine that showed how to do it without removing the timing chain. I'm hoping for a simpler approach, as I know it is going to be time consuming and my first time tearing into anything other than a SBC350.

I'm not sure of the procedure for this engine, but on all engines I have worked on you have to remove the valve spring to replace the seal and these having overhead cams you would have to remove the cam to get the spring off, if it were an old school engine with rocker arms it easy to do.

Yes, I saw that you have to remove the cams and I found a cool tool for removing and installing the springs. I'm really just hoping I can find something that helps give me guidance on disassembly so I don't spend time removing things I don't need to or in the wrong order that takes even more time. These engines have so much more sitting on them than an old carbonated motor.

I just spend 30 minutes on Youtube trying to find a video to help you..but all
I found was a couple that only showed them removing the seal and installing the new one and they had the heads completely removed, so no real help I'm afraid.

Edit: I just had a thought, if you search for a how to guide for "valve adjusting" since you have to remove the cams to add and or replace a shim under the "buckets" to "adjust" them, that would get you to the valves so you can then replace the seals!!

Before you pull the cams you going to need to note all the valve clearances in case any need to be "adjusted" and then make sure to keep the buckets and shims organized/labeled so they go back in the exact same place they were removed from during reassembly.

Go to around 4:20 on this and see if this hose is connected.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V02O...=TheCarCareNut

Keep us posted. I'm having the same issue 80k

Over the past week, I have spent hours trying to find videos or websites around this issue or similar. I guess it's a good sign that no one is needing to tear into these engines.

Your valve adjustment search is a fantastic idea. I'll look into that and see what I can find.

Thanks

Absolutely.

I'd keep driving it for awhile, do an oil change with Valvoline "Restore and Protect" oil and stay with it for a couple of changes unless problem gets progressively worse and you feel a repair is necessary. Check your plugs for any signs of oil contamination.

FWIW when I bought my high mileage 2011, it had this to a much lesser degree. I suspect it sat for a while also. I went through the head gasket checks, etc. I changed plugs, pcv valve, oil, added Techron, scoped the cylinders and it had decent amount of carbon build up I am sure some from oil-all the things I listed and after 1-2K miles it stopped. Not saying yours will. But mine had many more miles on it-242K-when I bought it.