https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FOYgaNMeZc

I've got my 1 gallon of Valvoline ATF and have watched about ten Youtube videos and am ready to start this project finally, but I don't have floor jacks to lift the car so I can turn the steering wheel to pump out the fluid. Was going to order a 3/8 double barb and some jack stands from Amazon so I could do it when they get here, but I watched the video you told me about. I do have this manual fluid extractor and some 3/8" hose. Can I use that and do what he does here and insert my manual suction into that return line to pull out the old fluid so I don't have to lift my car to get the fluid out of the return line? Would be great if I can save $50.

My car was off, i connected my hoses and used my manual suction to pull fluid from the return line as i topped up the reservoir with new fluid. I shoved the hoses into one another and put a rag around the connection to catch any drips.

Once the fluid coming out the return line was nice and bright red, i reconnected the lines to the reservoir, started the car and turned the wheels lock to lock 3 or 4 times, topped up the level and called it done.

Never in my life have I experienced anything as miserable or difficult as trying to remove my power steering return line. I can move it around the nozzle pretty easily but for the life of me, cannot make any progression on moving it down the nipple, despite using WD40, sticking screwdrivers and small tools down the line and then spraying, using a wrench to twist it, etc. There is no way it is coming off. I spent probably $100 buying the tools for a PS flush to do this on my own but I am pretty sure I'm going to need to take it to a mechanic and pay $180 for a flush.

As a last ditch effort, how difficult is it to remove the return line from whatever it connects to at the bottom, so I can just cut it at the top and replace the entire line? Or, will the flush be just as efficient as continually topping it off with new ATF, driving it a bit, and then extracting all the fluid from the reservoir and refilling a few times to cycle all the old fluid out? I have a gallon of ATF so I can fill it up multiple times. Really bummed I couldn't finish this job the correct way.

My dad taught me this trick:

Every summer, use a turkey baster (never to return to the kitchen) and remove the fluid from the brake reservoir and the power steering reservoir. If they use different fluids, have a turkey baster for each.
Add proper new fluid up to the appropriate fill line.
Do this three times each summer, in June, in July, and in August.
You'll be amazed how quickly this can be done--just a few minutes.

I've owned multiple vehicles (over 30), and never had an issue. At least a dozen of the vehicles have gone beyond 150K and many beyond 200K.
Why does this work? Probably because it's done yearly (vice much less often by most people) and gets most of the fluid with the three iterations each summer. Preventive maintenance works.

Have I ever done a drain and flush on any vehicle in over 40 years of driving? No.
Have I ever had problems? No.
Does it save money? Probably not. I buy fresh fluids every summer.
Does it save time? Probably yes as during a full purge takes more time and equiment.

Is it as good as a full drain and flush. Probably not. But given most people don't do any preventive maintenance, these few minutes three times on an early summer morning make a huge difference.

Your mileage may vary, but I like easy maintenance that has proven to work.


Chris__Colorado
Current Fleet
2022 4Runner Limited (white)
2022 4Runner Limited (red)
2011 Highlander Hybrid
2000 Chevy Blazer
1986 Intruder
Some other preventive and recurring maintenance:

I also change my oil every 5000 miles and oil filter every other oil change. I only use 100% synthetic oil (brand immaterial, whatever is cheapest).
On the oil pan, I use a Fumoto valve with a section of permanently attached fuel line hose which makes draining the oil a breeze, and not messy.
Each Month:
Before sunrise, the tire pressure is checked and adjusted to read 3 psi over the recommended pressure. This pressure works for me.
Oil level checked.
Windshield fluid topped off.
Vacuum and wash floormats as appropriate.
Check all lights
Lighly clean car inside s needed
Lightly clean outside of car (usually just foam and rinse once or twice).
Wipe down inside with 303 Protectant (window seals too)

Every April and September
Grease all zerk fittings.
RainX or Aquapel all windows
Use some bicyle spray chain wax on hinges and any moving parts (Hood hinges, door hinges, lock latches, etc.)

Every September,
Hose off (cold) engine and compartment.
Run through a car wash twice using the undercarraige cleaning option (never use it otherwise)
Detail, clay and wax car.
Spray underside with woolwax or fluid film (whichever I can find--just a few cans to touch up stuff).

Great list of maintenance items and schedule. Going to save this for the future. I did complete the PS flush and a brake fluid flush this weekend and they were surprisingly easy, though I did have some issues (especially doing the brake flush solo) and learned some things. I like the idea of draining and topping off to do a mini flush. Going to try doing my own oil change next and start doing these every 5k miles instead of 10, especially since it takes me two years to put 5k miles on my car.