After trying it on my own, it did not seem to help much. I took it to the dealer and they performed the calibration no questions asked and free under warranty. It still does it, but it is definitely better.

^^Good to know. Thanks.

Did this reset after my lift instal before I ever drove it, still have not set anything off one time or had a problem. Guess it worked

Another option that I used for my Tundra: I went on trusty ol' ebay and ordered an OBD-II/USB cable and a copy of the TechStream software with the Toyota patch included.

Techstream is a generic OBD-II communication software, and you purchase patches for each specific brand of vehicle - ie, I installed the Toyota patch, so I can communicate with Toyotas. Techstream can also be used with Nissans, however, it will not work until you buy a Nissan patch.

There's a tool in Techstream that allows you to perform calibration of the VSC system. It is also handy for checking MIL status, and for customizing some different vehicle features. I recommend buying it for anyone that spends any amount of time working on their vehicle - I think the whole kit cost me around $50 if I remember correctly

Thanx for the post, i did the calibration with 2 stripped speaker cables, easy to do, thanx, took me over 20 minutes to do.

Hello all,

Before I attempt this and screw it all up, I wanted to get clarification on a few points, please

I have an SR5, so no Crawl Control calibration needed on mine.

Question #1: Do I complete the "(b) Perform zero point calibration of the yaw rate and acceleration sensor" task in full including driving straight for 10 seconds and then proceed to "4. PERFORM DOWNHILL ASSIST CONTROL CALIBRATION (w/ Downhill Assist Control)? It would seem that entering "Test Mode" a second time to complete the Downhill Assist Calibration might clear the previous Zero-Point calibration?

Question #2: In the "4. PERFORM DOWNHILL ASSIST CONTROL CALIBRATION (w/ Downhill Assist Control) instructions, it never says when to turn the key back on (only says to turn the ignition off in two different steps). I'm assuming I need to turn on the ignition at some point to get the "Downhill Assist" buttons to function for the calibration? I assume the ignition is turned back on after re-connecting terminals 12 + 4?

Lastly - What's the importance of the comment:"* DTCs 36 (Zero Point Calibration of Yaw Rate Sensor Undone) and 39 (Zero Point Calibration of Acceleration Sensor Undone) are stored if the shift lever is not in P."? It's very confusing the way it's stated...


Any clarifications are appreciated! My VSC is not noticeably acting up, but I just raised the front a little and corrected for some driver's lean. I'd think a re-calibration is a good idea. Graci!

Don't quote me on this as I kind of just improvised a bit after following the directions to the tee didn't work.

First point, yes I too noticed that the FSM appeared to have forgotten to tell you to turn the ignition back to the on position for some of the steps, I sat there trying to perform crawl control calibration until the cows came home before I realized

As far as re-entering the test mode to do the crawl/dac calibration, I think it's probably fine to re-enter it if you want w/o messing up the previous calibration data. I think somewhere in the FSM it says that new calibration data can only be saved in test mode once after clearing the calibration data; so just entering test mode w/o the clearing step shouldn't affect it.

Personally, I just did the crawl control calibration immediately after setting the new calibration data; and then went for a drive. It seems to work fine either way though, I tried both ways and I didn't notice any obvious differences; both times the slip light went off and stayed off w/o a hitch.

I searched this topic a while back and I think the crawl/dac "calibration" is really just to tell the brake master cylinder that your vehicle has these functions. I think that's why for example the crawl calibration really just calls for you to push all the buttons and spin the knob so the master cylinder knows its there, so to speak.

As far as your last question, it's basically just telling you to keep the damn shift lever in park when performing the zero point calibration or else you're going to get a check light

eddiebx - Thank you so much for your prompt & detailed reply! This gives me the confidence to attempt this later today. You rock

Update Success!

I cleared the data and went through both steps back-to-back, and then turned off the key, disconnected the wire, started the truck and drove off. Seemed to "take" on the first try (no lights). Took all of 3-4 minutes and can likely be done in under a minute including the drive

Thanks to iDRiVaT4R for posting this thread, and to eddiebx for the astute clarifications - Much obliged

Here is how I would edit the instructions.

SR5 and LE (w/o Crawl):


At least that's what I did

I did my lift few months ago, I did n't know the calibration and didn't feel anything unusual. Do I still need have it done? Thanks!

No, not if you don't notice anything usual with the VSC,TRAC or ATRAC. I've never had to do it and all the electronic nannies have worked as advertised for over 3 years along with the other four 5ths I've lifted or helped lift. Most do not need it.

If you're not having any issues such as waring light or the VSC kicking in then no, you don't HAVE to do it. However, after installing a lift, i would do it for 2 reasons.
1) It won't hurt and is easy to do, takes about 10 minutes.
2) It resets the zero point. Assume, for simplicity, the VSC kicks in when things get 5% away from zero and after installing a lift you are already 2% off, that means that one way you're only 3% before the VSC kicks in and the other 7%. In short, even if you aren't having issues, you might not be were the VSC works at it's best anymore.

I have an 03 4runner ans we tried to perform the zero point calabration using these instructions, but when we looked at the obdII it seems that there's no connector in terminal ts12. picture below but it's upside down



is there another way
thanks in advance

after doing a little more research I think I'm suppose to jump 4 and ts14 instead of ts12, correct me if I'm wrong
thanks

I had this done at my first service. I'm running a lift with larger tires. It seemed to help as it didn't do it for awhile then did it briefly then today did it again. I'm not sure why as it seems to not be in danger of loosing control. I guess it's the vehicle trying to be smarter than the driver and that's not always the case.
So I see from your post that you had it done then still notice it at times. Would this be to be expected from time to time? Each two times since the z p cal it seemed not necessary to engage. My other question for anyone is I don't see the purpose each time it's engaged itself. The brake pedal pulses madly and it seems to pull a bit, then it stops as suddenly as it started.
One more quick question, has anyone saved their ass by this feature? Did it feel like it prevented disaster that maybe would have likely occurred otherwise?
Thanks everyone, great info here.