The best/easiest way to get rid of that rail dust embedded in your clear, plastic parts, ect is Iron-X.

You spray it on, it dissolves the iron particles, you agitate it with a sponge, then rinse it off. It is way easier then clay, and will get stuff a clay bar won't.

Iron X Iron Remover, CQuartz IronX, Paint Cleaner, paint decontamination

Or you can do it the easier cheaper way and compound it...

I'm intrigued. Some quick googling has sold me. Would this just be something you do before you clay (say, once or twice a year, or as needed) or do you use it more often than that?

Also, when you say agitate with a sponge, what kind of sponge are you using? Could you simply use a microfibre? Just concerned about swirls/scratching.

From my personal experience using Iron X, I 100% recommend it. I was very sceptical at the beginning but after much research on detailing forums, I decided to try it on our vehicles. The end result was unbelievable and worked so well that a second spray on our white colored Lexus was not warranted. From what I've researched, detailers use Iron X before claybaring. I decided to use a damp microfiber cloth vs sponge pad which worked very well. Very very little friction is required with the microfiber cloth. This stuff proved to be extremely effective, fast and easy to use.

If interested, many pictures and details can be found at the link below. This particular detailer comes highly recommend for Opti-Guarding cars here in Calgary. He uses Iron X as one step in his detailing and even takes up close pictures of what little contaminants are actually picked up on the clay bar following use of Iron X...

Search Results - Live2Detail

As I understand it, this stuff is also harmless to your paint, though it has a tendency to react with and potentially discolor your wheel weights..
http://www.cquartz.com/pages.php?page_id=89

Not sure if you are able to purchase Iron X where you are, but I sourced mine through Auto Obsessed who are located in Edmonton..
http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/carpro-m-88.html

Its best to use Iron-x Before claying, and it will make the clay bar process much easier. Also, some have completely replaced claying with Iron-X (to take care of the iron contaminants) and Tar-X to get the rest of the organic contaminants. ( Although I would probley still want to clay even after Iron-X and Tar-X, just to be sure all contaminants are gone)

About the Sponge thing...People say it does a better job then a microfiber, but a microfiber may be safer. I just used a Grout sponge I got from Home Depot, and didn't have any problems.

Here is a good read on Iron-x, and comparison between just claying and Iron-x and claying.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/product...ro-iron-x.html

Thanks guys- really appreciate the info. Will read up.

Rust under the paint on the rear license plate holes. 2015 SR5-P.

Just purchased this $runner in Pensicols 2 weeks ago, found rust all over the backend. The hitch bar part cost 800.00, and needs to be welded in place. The labor is 1200.00. Thank God I got a great price on this rust wagon. Would like to know who else has this issue. More pics in MY GARAGE

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^^^^ That looks like a 1st or 2nd Generation Tacoma. I have yet to have a rush issue with my Tacoma and hope I never do.

Well that is a reason why I have used Fluid Flim on my Tacoma's in the past and now on my 17 4R. Sprayed my 4R with 2 cans last weekend.