Originally Posted by 4Reak Show

Alright so I just did this in my 2016 TP in preparation for towing soon. Here's the process I used
I used the B&M 70264 Amazon.com: B&M 70264 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler: Automotive

I also nabbed an additional length of 11/32 hose Amazon.com: Derale 13003 Transmission/Engine Oil Hose: Automotive (I probably didn't really need the second length but I didn't want to get into a situation where I needed more and didn't have it).

And a 2 pack of 3/8" male-male barb fittings Gasher 2 Pieces Brass Hose Barb Reducer, 3/8 Inch to 3/8 Inch Barb Hose ID with 4 Hose Clam, Brass Barb Reducer SPLICER Fitting Fuel/AIR/Water/Oil/Gas/WOG: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Also needed is a couple hose clamps, a half-quart of Toyota WS ATF, and about 7 metric 6mmx1.0 about 1" long bolts/nuts/washers combos.

I used stock unused threaded holes for 3 mounting points.
1) Lower passenger side bolts directly to one of those holes and begins the fitment process.
2) drilled one tiny hole into the body brace for lower driver side hole and did a thru-bolt with nut. Be carefull since there's the A/C condenser close, but not bad at all.
3) The top passenger side strap wasn't long enough so I used 2 that came in the kit, stacked and staggered to make longer, thru-bolted together in 2 holes to prevent pivoting. Slight bend to change the plane for mounting. Thru-bolted to cooler, OEM hole in radiator support
4) OEM threaded hole for top drive side bracket, mark bracket and drill a hole in it to match cooler mount hole. Thru-bolt to cooler after drilling.



So I only had to drill one hole in the body brace, and one hole in one bracket that came with the kit. Didn't have to use any other previously used mounts for anything.

I didn't get a good picture becuase it was getting late but I loomed each hose with leftover 3/4" wire loom, ran it loosely up into an already foam-coated slot and then into a hole thru the radiator support above where the A/C hard line comes in.



I tapped into the lines up top only. I ran the truck for a long time the day before and used an infrared laser thermometer and verified the blue marked hose (the one with the offset bend) was about 15-20 degrees cooler. This was the driver side of radiator hose, and the flatter of the 2 lines from transmission in case anyone is curious.


So my new cooler lower hose looped down and back up to the pipe shown above. The 11/32 hose is extremely tight on the OEM metal hardline. Took quite a bit of power and wiggling to install it. But that means it's a great fit. The upper hose was attached right there using the male-male barb fitting to stock hose using a new clamp. This way I figure I could bypass and go back to OEM if needed.

I did this with truck ice cold. Lost ZERO fluid this way. I used a turkey baster to inject 1/2 quart of WS ATF VERY SLOWLY into the OEM hose before connecting to barb fitting to accommodate the slight increase in system volume. Very clean this way. Minimal spillage, and zero original fluid loss. Didn't check fluid level, probably won't. Since I didn't lose any, I figured I'm plenty safe. An ounce or 2 one way or the other cant be that detrimental. If anything it's probably a handful of ounces overfilled.

I'm gonna run some more checks using my laser thermometer the more I drive it to see how hot things get. Original temp was about 185 on hot side pipe up top, and 170 on the cooler one. Both hard lines from transmission were 200 so that wasn't a useful measurement in determining flow.

Originally Posted by zcruiser

Did you put the B&M in series? Which line did you actually tap in to?

Originally Posted by 4Reak Show

Short answer:
Yes, B&M in series. I tapped in at the lines below the coolant overflow bottle. I circled it here.

I seperated the connection, connected lower B&M (desired input) to the hardline (radiator output). I then connected the upper B&M (desired output) to the factory rubber hose by using a 3/8" male-male barb fitting and 2 clamps. Never even dropped the skid plate. Didn't spill a single drop working with truck ice cold.

Long explanation:

The hard line portion of the circled connection goes down to driver side of radiator, and the rubber hose portion connects to the flatter of the 2 hard lines coming off the transmission at the lower passenger side of the engine. I've read things in this thread that dispute that however. Well, one person has said the bent lower line at the engine is the return-to-transmission line, and I've read the driver side connection of radiator is the return-to-transmission line which contradict each other. ...

Originally Posted by zcruiser

Agree on all points, so tapping into either line for series should make no difference.

As you stated (point 3), the ONLY difference I could see is that if you PRE-cooled the fluid with the B&M before going into the radiator section, you MAY be able to improve the heat transfer in that section due to lower temps going in. Just speculation.

Wouldn’t be terribly hard to experiment both ways.

Thanks for all the detail. I did a B&M on two 3rd gens... one in series and one bypass but I can’t for the life of me remember how I did it.

I’m probably going with the Derale cooler. May add a manually controlled fan later if warranted.

Originally Posted by progress4m

I do not have auxiliary (aftermarket\add on) Transmission Cooler, but I can tell that hardline (“metal tube”) -with blue marking (circled in your picture) is for sure the return-to-transmission line (the fluid after radiator goes back to transmission using that line).



I know that because I recently did a lot of research on that and consequently did the full Transmission fluid change using Torque Converter pump method- and I used that hardline to pump the fluid out by connecting my drain house to that “metal tube”.

Originally Posted by zcruiser

Agree on all points, so tapping into either line for series should make no difference.

As you stated (point 3), the ONLY difference I could see is that if you PRE-cooled the fluid with the B&M before going into the radiator section, you MAY be able to improve the heat transfer in that section due to lower temps going in. Just speculation.

Wouldn’t be terribly hard to experiment both ways.

Thanks for all the detail. I did a B&M on two 3rd gens... one in series and one bypass but I can’t for the life of me remember how I did it.

I’m probably going with the Derale cooler. May add a manually controlled fan later if warranted.

Originally Posted by 4RunnerAquasport

I added a small push fan on my B&M. It helps because when you come off an Interstate into stop and go traffic, your temps can climb when the air flow slows down. I flip the switch for about 10 minutes or so and then the temps drop back down 10 to 15*. Heat index has been 105 - 110 average the last couple weeks here in Florida, add some hot pavement to that and it starts to creep up to 120. Helps a lot when I go off road too.