EDIT:

Original pics and instructions are gone, sorry folks. When updating photo bucket I screwed up everything. Here are pics (non-annotated) to try to help.

http://s1339.photobucket.com/user/TO...er%20TRD%20CAI

So here is my 2nd write-up on the forum. My other write-up was for the Grillecraft upper/lower grill installation available here

The reason I'm making my this is for two reasons. (1) Toyota's directions suck IMO and (2) people like to see pics in color and for someone who has done the install to identify the troublesome spots not identified in the instructions they give. Install took about 3 hrs (taking pics slowed me down, you could probably finish in 2 hrs).

Photo bucket scrambled all of my photos so now the pics don't match up anymore folks.....sorry. Maybe one day while I'll try to match these up again but for now here are the pics that I took during the process.



Step 1: You're gonna need a few basic tools before you start. Below are a list of the tools I used (I added a couple extra that made it more convenient). Also, make sure you have all the parts and that nothing is broken. The first kit I received was broken.

Socket wrench
Socket extension
Socket hand driver w/socket adapter
10mm socket
12mm socket
#2 Philips Head
#2 Standard Head (flat head)
3mm allen head
Pliers/Adjustable
Razor blade (to cut zip tie ends ONLY)
Scissors (to open packaging)
Microfiber towel
Silicon Spray (Don't forget to have this, cause you WILL NEED IT)






Step 2: Remove negative battery cable (12mm socket) and put the nut back on the threads so you don't loose it.



Step 3: Remove engine cover. Simply lift up on the front lip firmly - there are 2 anchors it sits in, once you get the front lifted off the anchors, pull towards the grill to disengage the rear mounts (highlighted in red)




Step 4: Remove MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. Be careful not to break the clip cause you're gonna reuse this.



Step 5: Unclip all the wire harness clips. Gently pry up underneath them with a flat head screwdriver (It takes a little big of wiggling the screwdriver underneath them to get them to pop out).





Step 6: Remove the vacuum hose and crank case vent hose (with metal prong) located next to the throttle body and loosen the 10mm or philips head bolt holding the intake to the throttle body (highlighted in red)





Step 7: Remove the Zinc Plated bracket (called Resonator Bracket) that holds the intake tube up. It has (2) 10mm bolts (highlighted in red). You may notice that I forgot to remove this part until later in this installation, but now is RIGHT the time to remove it.



Step 8: Now unclip the 4 aluminum brackets holding the top of the airbox on and you should be able to remove the top of the airbox along with the intake tube all in one piece.

Step 9: Remove the three 12mm bolts from the inbox (2 are inside, 1 is on the outside)





Step 10: Next you're gonna start undoing all the electrical tape and removing all the plastic clips (be careful not to cut any wires). I used my fingers to unroll all the electrical tape. While it was time consuming, there was no concern with cutting any wires. You need to unroll the electrical tape all the way down to the bottom of the "T" to allow enough of the MAF wiring to reach the new location it will soon be located in. (NOTE: You will be removing all the plastic clips along the wire loom and will not be reusing them). Once you've ensured it's long enough (essentially enough slack - to reach the radiator overflow bottle roughly - highlighted in red below) use the wire loom provided to go over the exposed MAF wiring and use electrical tape to secure it in place. Same goes for all the other exposed wiring. Place the existing exposed wires back into the factory wiring loom and use electrical tape to secure it in place.







Step 11: Remove the 10mm bolt towards the front of the engine so that you can place the extension adapter to insert the "tree mounted zip tie". Sorry I didn't get a more zoomed out pic, but the instructions will be able to better show the zoomed out location.



Step 12: Insert (2) more "tree mounted zip tie" in the location in the engine block below. Sorry I didn't get a more zoomed out pic, but the instructions will be able to better show the zoomed out location. You'll note the (2) inserts in red........you'll also note the bracket in green (this should have been removed in step 7, I just forgot to remove it then). NOTE: I did not zip tie anything until the assembly was fully complete just in case something didn't line up.

Step 13: Route the MAF wiring underneath the pre-existing cables towards the front of the 4Runner grill and use (1) more "tree mounted zip tie to hold the MAF wire from drooping. NOTE: I did not zip tie anything until the assembly was fully complete just in case something didn't line up.




Step 14: Remove the grommet and sleeve from the old airbox (separate them from each other before attempting to remove). The sleeve slides out of the grommet by using a flat head screwdriver or something similar to push the sleeve outside of the grommet. Once you remove the sleeves inside the grommet, squish the grommet through the old airbox holes. Now that you have all (3) sleeves and grommets removed, insert them in reverse order in the new airbox.






Step 15: Insert the new fenderwell tubing as pictured. Make sure the TRD logo is facing upwards.



Step 16: Once the fenderwell tubing is installed, install the new airbox (bottom) in using the (3) bolts from the previous airbox. You'll notice a new 3rd hole location (inside) the airbox vice outside. Bolt down the box and reinstall the wire harness into the side of the airbox.

Step 17: Install the air filter ensuring it's seated flush.



Step 18: Insert the grommet in the top of the airbox (there is only one hole on the top of the airbox). The instructions will tell you to install the filter reminder (glass looking object) but I chose to wait until the installation was complete to avoid it getting busted up.




Step 19: Install the metal couplers (the 2 large ones) on the larger rubber coupler. Ensure you install the right side (one side is bigger than the other). Look inside of it to ensure it's sitting flush.




Step 20: Gently align the 2 hinges (against the fenderwell) and insert the 2 metal clamps/tabs in the two empty spots. Once you are sure it's all aligned along the firewall, press down and clamp down the metal clamps creating a tight seal around the entire airbox. The RED filter will be visible 360 degrees around, this is normal and correct. NOTE: On the previous TRD CAI I received, the two hinges along the firewall were the areas where it was broke so ensure you follow the directions for alignment as to not break them.

Step 21: Remove the MAF sensor from the old intake using a small philips head screwdriver. The screws are very soft so make sure you have the right philips head to avoid stripping them. You will NOT reuse the screws but instead use the new allen head screws in the TRD CAI. Once you've removed the MAF from the old intake, install it on the new one (do not tighten it down all the way, as you'll need to plug in the MAF sensor and if the allen head screws are bolted down all the way you can't plug the MAF in without loosing the 2 screws......just trust me).





Step 22: First and foremost, if you don't have silicon spray, don't even attempt this next step. You need a lubricant to do this effectively without cutting your knuckles up so make sure you have some. From here, you'll need to spray/lube the lip/edge of the rubber sleeves before you attempt to slide it on to the airbox and throttle body. Make sure the metal couplers are loose but tight enough not to fall off of the rubber couplers. You'll notice that the fitment is difficult if you pushed the rubber couplers too far onto the intake tube so it's a lot of back and forth adjusting the depth as to which you placed the rubber couplers on the tube. Just ensure you have the rubber couplers touching the plastic lips on the intake tube and you should be good to go. Additionally, make sure the rubber meets the little metal edge on the throttle body.








Step 23: Next insert the two supplied nipples (yes I said nipples) into the rubber coupler that plugs into the throttle body. One is large, one is small. Insert the large nipple onto the crank case air tube you removed with the squeeze metal prong. As for the small nipple, the vacuum hose you'll notice that you disconnected in Step 6 is too short to reach, but TRD supplied a new one that is longer. Remove the old shorter tube and install the new one.

Step 24: According to the directions, you're supposed to zip tie the vacuum hose against wiring loom but I chose to wait until the installation was complete.




Step 25: Align your metal couplers wherever you want them to be and tighten them down with a 10mm socket.




Step 26: Plug in MAF sensor onto intake tube. Remember what I mentioned before, if you previously tightened the two allen head screws all the way down you won't be able to plug the MAF sensor in so loosen them up, plug the MAF sensor in, then re-tighten the two allen head screws.



Step 27: Insert the Filter Reminder glass piece into the top of the airbox.



Step 28: Insert the plastic plug provided into the hole into the bottom of airbox.



Step 29: Go through and ensure you have everything tight and in order to include the zip ties you may or may not have already cinched down.






Step 30: Reinstall engine cover and negative battery.





Enjoy the new EYE CANDY!!!!





Here are the parts that WERE NOT REUSED:



Couple things to note in the pics. My electrical tape I had was bad so if you see horrible pics of electrical tape, it's since been replaced with new electrical tape. You'll also notice in the pics that I didn't cinch down all the zip ties, they have since been cinched down. You'll also note that the filter reminder isn't installed in the final pics, it's since been installed.

Hope this installation guide helps some of you. As for a difference in performance, I can tell a difference in the mid-high rpms but nothing off the line. It growls something fierce though when you smash the pedal kinda like my old TRD Supercharged Tacoma. Do I think it's worth the money, as of now NO.....but maybe after I swap the exhaust to allow the added air to escape more freely. The directions Toyota provided aren't horrible, but they aren't great. Until the next installation How-To-Guide.....you stay classy San Diego, I'm Ron Burgandy!

Excellent write up. THANK YOU!!!!!

Great writeup. I do not even own the intake yet, but I still appreciate the work you put into this write up. When finally can afford this intake, I will be referring to these instructions.

Nice job TS. I'm not likely to do this mod, but I sure enjoyed the read. I also know from my lighting write-ups that in addition to the picture-taking, it also takes a couple more hours to write it up and post it. Especially if you're anal about it (like me).

NP fellas, glad I could be of assistance.

Excellent write-up, TOYSTRY. Not sure if I'm going to do this mod yet, but if I do, I will certainly be using your instructions. Waiting to see a little more feedback on how much improvement there is in HP/Mileage.

Holy Mackerel TOYSTRY
Another great DIY write up!That is another one that will be read for years.

Do you do this for a living? If not you should as you did a way better job then the guy that gets paid to do it at TRD.

What's your next one ?

Great write-up. I feel like I just installed this.

Great writeup man! If I end up getting the TRD CAI in a few months I will definitely be using your instructions!

Thanks. Nope, just tired of seeing people struggle with installations because the companies are too lazy to do it right the first time. Example: Grillcrafts Grille. That grill was a PITA to install with the directions given - they failed to mention the hard parts in their directions. Had I known what I know now, I would have fabbed my own.

As for next mod - maybe cut out the old muffler and swap a new one in. I can't justify spending money on a cat-back when the exhaust tubing is brand new and the same diameter. Back in the days when I had my Tacoma I bought the TRD exhaust (which was a borla). When I removed the old exhaust is was the exact same bends, diameter, etc. I could have saved a bunch of cash and just bought a muffler and exhaust tip and called it a day. I'd like to install the headers you have but haven't heard or seen enough "good stuff" to justify spending that much cash or disassembling the engine that much to squeeze them in their.

Later.......