OK I got my lift and plan on setting my front CO's at 2.5" and put SAW 1.5 springs in rear , so i should end up with a 2.5/1.5 lift .

With it being lower (than most of you lifted folks) will 285's work with stock or aftermarket rims without rubbing. Im ok if I gotta stick with my 265's and maybe just put after market rims on .

You vote for stock or aftermarket black rims ???

With black rims ..... ATX or Procomp is there any difference in finish ? I know the ATX are Teflon and was told the Procomp are powder coated . Also was told the Procomp finish is nicer and blacker and don't look faded like the ATX do. I have seen neither in person yet and prob won't . Till they arrive here .

You still can/will rub a little depending on the brand/type of tire that is 285/70/17. Most tire manufacturer specs can be a little different and depending how prolific the outside lugs are which are what do the rubbing.

Rather then cut the liner off to prevent the rubbing. Do what's referred to as pulling the front part of the liner forward.

Elongate the 2 bottom holes,or maybe there's 3,in the liner by taking it loose,pushing it forward as far as possible and carefully making new holes just in the liner. I used an exacto knife but the abs plastic is kind of hard to work with. My suggestion is to put the new holes in with and Dremel with a small round ball or equivalent .Put the bolts back in and tighten. Wala.....You now have 1/2" -1" more clearance so your tire doesn't rub in the front.

Then when you have it aligned ,take it to a shop that knows what they are doing and have them align it so the wheel is forward(max caster).You may not get max caster with the stock UCA and one of the main reasons people use aftermarket ones . This will make it so it won't rub in the back ,on the mud flap in my case. Here is a pic I just took at the bottom front drivers side to try and give you an idea of what I'm talking about. See the gap I created where I moved it forward.That gets you an extra 1/2" or so of clearance and no rubbing. We need somebody to do a better write-up on this when/if they do it...hint sp8ball/antman!!!My bolts just look different because I used Aircraft stainless bolts/washer/nuts. I think it will make more sense when you get up under there and take the fasteners out and see that the liner can be pushed forward! It's a very simple mod.This is an old pic and of a TE liner. A SR5/Limited liner will be a little different to do, but the same principal to move the liner forward.

You can go 275/70x17s too with less of a rubbing issue. Or actually none at all and it should look great.

But I would go with what Harper7 said and 285s. I just like them more.

Falls Said "You vote for stock or aftermarket black rims ???

With black rims ..... ATX or Procomp is there any difference in finish ? I know the ATX are Teflon and was told the Procomp are powder coated . Also was told the Procomp finish is nicer and blacker and don't look faded like the ATX do. I have seen neither in person yet and prob won't "

Falls I don't know if this matters to you or not - However this is my experience with Pro Comp. The wheels are great! I own two sets, one on my Bronco and the other on the 4Runner, both sets run true. No wobbles or vibrations with either set and their tires.

However, the center caps on the front of the 4Runner are TIGHT. If Pro Comp has not changed the size of their centercaps (my wheels are over a year old) the fronts will be tight and need to be forced on over the front wheel hubs. Pro Comp's centercaps fit loose on the centerbore of the wheel and the slack is taken up with an o-ring around outside of the centercap. Works great for the Bronco, but the same idea make for a tight fit on the 4Runner.

Just my experience

4BYTOY

When purchasing aftermarket rims what do I need to know as far as offset / backspace to have minimal rubbing ??

Would it makes sense to get stock backspace/offset, but only an 8" or 9" rim.

The other option is having my stock TE rims powder coated satin black w/satin clear coat . Paint caps to match , but then I would not have the wider stance and better stability on a lifted vehicle and I will NOT run wheels spacers .

Cool to hear you're going with a lift. I've seen you on a lot of threads weighing all your options.

With the black fender trim, etc. I think black rims look badass on TE's!

Falls, I've had 285's on my stock (no lift) TE since June 2010 and haven't had any rubbing issues once I did the liner "pull forward" mod that harper7 described. I posted a quick write-up of it in the thread link below (post near the very bottom of page 6).

Show all photos of upgraded tires here.

I will say that I haven't done any "serious" off roading to flex the suspension but a couple of trips into the Utah backcountry haven't posed any problems (tire rubbing or otherwise). Good luck with the lift, etc.

EDIT: the 285 tires mentioned above were P285/70R17 Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors mounted on stock TE wheels and if they ever rubbed, I never noticed it. I added the new TRD wheels recently and the tires started to rub the mudflaps just a bit (mostly when in 4H and turning at near full lock) -- I think the offset/backspacing of the TRDs is just a bit different than the stock wheels but haven't confirmed this yet. Anyway, I got a set of LT285/70R17 Duratracs mounted this past weekend and they are at least 1/4 in taller overall and have a ~1/2" wider tread contact patch than the Silent Armors. These Duratracs definitely rub the mudflap when turning and the suspension compresses in normal driving (i.e. turning into a parking lot, etc). I have the mudflaps removed right now and am investigating if the tires are going to actually rub the body mounts that are located behind the mudflaps -- initial driving the past 2 days looks promising that I won't have to break out the grinder and chop off some of that useless steel on the body mount, but I need to find a few rocks/moguls and flex the suspension to know for sure. I'm getting ready to add some adjustable Bilsteins and will have the alignment done after the install and am going to have them increase the caster per Harper7's recommendation above.

As many have probably already said.. thanks! did it and have no more rubbing!

I'm under my truck right now trying to figure out the picture but for the life of me can't figure out the orientation. I have a '13 SR5.

Is the far left the actual wheel well and the far right where it turns into bumper?

I had to pull the front fender plastic well forward for my 285s and 1" Toytec spacer. It's literally a 5 minute job per side. If you want, you can get a bit more space by melting them with a heat gun, but I got adequate results with my BFGs and didn't go any further. Enemy of good, as they say.

Unscrew, punch new holes in fender liner plastic, screw back in.

I have a TE and the mud flaps in the front have this idiotic bulge in them that was rubbing the tires so I pulled them off. I could have cut out the plastic bulging piece with a box cutter and put the mud flaps back on but I really don't care that much.

Did the same thing with the wife's LE.

If the wheel well is indeed to the left in the picture, the underside in this orientation on my '13 SR5 looks very different. Anyone else with a '13 able to chime in?

So I'm under my truck right now and still can't figure out this little fender liner mod ('13 SR5). There's a bulbous part directly behind where the fastener mounts the fender lining to the bumper, which prevents me from drilling a new hole and moving the fender forward to give me more tire clearance. Thoughts?

I'll try to post a pic here in a sec.

Here's the pic. In the pic view the bulbous part is to the right of the fastener. Other fender mod pics don't seem to have this part swell out like mine.

Attached Images

 

The reference pic is a TE

Im thinking of doing a spacer lift ( for now ).

Thing of a Daystar 2.5/1.5 or a 2/1 CF . I am replacing tires to an AT but keeping stock size for now. Prob BFG's or Firestone Dest. AT. Stock rims for now also.

Any pics would also be appreciated.

Thank you
Mike