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Old 03-10-2015, 12:21 PM #31
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OK (after my coffee and on my drive to work), I figured it out, it's similar but definitely not the same mod.

@Antman 's post: ANTMAN'S Thread is to use the wire-tap to sneak out 12V constant ON power, and provide that directly to the front cigarette lighter power socket (or any socket); with the flip on the switch, get it back to original factory config.

@Reata 's post: Reata's Build Thread is to run a wire all the way from the battery to the rear (and even add an "always HOT" cigarette lighter power socket); IMO, this is WAY too much work, IF I don't have to do it (depending on how successful is my suggested mod is)

Now, the mod I suggested in 12v Constant on and/or switched power allows EVERYTHING that is covered by 15A P/OUTLET fuse to be have constant ON power with the flip of the switch. Unfortunately I do not have the 2014/2015 electrical wiring diagrams, so I cannot confirm (until I actually have time to probe around), what are exactly covered with this particular fuse.

This mod should let me avoid the need to run the front-to-back wire, which I consider "lots of work" if I don't need to do it.

Let me execute on this mod first, if it is as useful as I thought it would be, I may consider putting together a simple plug&play kit group-buy for our members.

PS. does anyone have a list of the "EVERYTHING" cover by the 15A P/OUTLET fuse on 2014/2015?

Last edited by jicko; 03-10-2015 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 03-10-2015, 02:04 PM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antman View Post
Someone will probably post this before I get a chance to get out to mine, but- I remember seeing a few unused blanks in the fusebox under the drivers dash that were + 12v all the time. Just plug in a mini-fuse tap and run the wire to the lighters. The grounds are white wires with black stripes, and the hot sides that I have seen are green (haven't checked them all). You can leave the ground alone, cut the hot and hookup the new power wire with a butt connector. Make sure you insulate the loose wire end, or you will get a short. I will check back when I get a chance to update if needed!
This is a dangerous idea if you're going to run "factory" current (ie, 10 amps).
I'd never run anything off a mini-tap that uses more than 1 amp or so, unless you've investigated thoroughly to see what the wiring is like to that part of the fuse block and what the circuit is designed for.

You're better off running a full pair of correct gauge AWG fused directly to the battery and either adding a new 12v outlet where you want it or replacing the factory wiring to an existing one (ie, remove factory 12v wiring from socket/tape off)
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Old 03-10-2015, 02:08 PM #33
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#1:
You're better off running a direct wire to the battery fused. You'll have larger gauge wire the entire length, less voltage drop, no worries about "connector failure" due to heat from the draw from a refrigerator.

#2:
Depending on the current pull, you could go with Antman's mini-tap suggestion. I'd stay under 1 or 2 amps for any mini-tap solutions. Run the wiring directly to this solution and make sure the mini-tap fuse is appropriately sized (1-2 amps)

#3:
Same as #2, you could do a mini-tap for this, keeping the current required low. A good vehicle charger for a cell phone shouldnt consume more than 2-3 amps at 5 volts (or 1-2 amps at 12v, for a switching type, not a cheap linear type)

Quote:
Originally Posted by limamike View Post
Well, first of all, I plan on doing a dual battery setup in the near future, so it would allow me to run accessories off of one battery at all times while camping or working out of my truck without having the key in the ignition.

Specifically, I'd like it on a switch for a few things:

1. I have a refrigerator in my truck which I would like to stay-on when I have the truck parked without having to leave it on ACC (i.e while filling the gas tank, camping, etc).

2. I have a vehicle "blackbox" which is essentially just a dual channel (in-cab and dash view) geo-rectified DVR with gyros. So, at a certain G-rating on X, Y, or Z it will record as an "event" on an SD card and mark the video 15 seconds before and 60 seconds after the "event". It also records at all times and overwrites itself after the SD card is full. So, I'd like to be able to leave it recording in certain situations since I live in the DC metro area...

3. For the normal incidental stuff like being able to charge my phone (or other device) without having to have my key in the ignition.

Does that make sense?
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Old 03-10-2015, 02:21 PM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antman View Post
I want to do it to the 12v outlet on the storage area so you don't need the ignition "on" to have power to run, say an inflator for an air mattress, etc. Why, you want to do another writeup???
I wonder what the current draw is on said inflator, but generally, you should have the vehicle ON with anything drawing significant current. You aren't necessarily in danger of depleting the battery, however, with the vehicle off you'll have significantly lower operating voltage (2-3 volts easily under load) which causes an equivalent increase in current required by that inflator/compressor motor. Increased current means increased heat, you can bake those connectors.

Say you use a 50 watt compressor
Vehicle off:
50 watts = 12 volts * X amps
50/12 = 4.17 amps
Vehicle on:
50 watts = 14.4 volts * X amps
50/14.4 = 3.4 amps

Connectors and wiring have a specific resistance, related to wire length, gauge, etc. To make matters worse, as wire/connectors heat up, their resistance increases. Higher resistance means higher voltage drop, which means the motor driving the compressor will require more current again to run. This is a downward spiral.

Sorry to go off on such a tangent, I'm sensitive to the thought of my vehicle wiring catching fire
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Old 03-10-2015, 02:28 PM #35
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It would be really neat to find the signal wire that flips the relays to enable the 12v sockets. Then you could add a signal wire switch to flip between factory and "always on" very simply. My guess is there isn't a single signal wire that does this, instead, the the sockets are powered when the main accessory bus is ON in the fuse block.

So you're probably looking for the holy grail. I've already posted several times about how a 15A fuse addition on a mini-tap is a terrible idea. The right way to handle this is to wire your own cables direct to the battery and fuse them there. I've done this in pretty much every vehicle I've owned (for various reasons, ham/cb radios, etc). It's really *not* that big of a deal, and it's the right way to do this. Just use quality cable with the right AWG for the current you plan to run through it.

For low-current (1-2 Amps max) a mini-tap is probably OK. Just make sure you use a small fuse on it. For 15A, no way in hell. If toyota put a 25A in a socket, that doesn't mean you can add 15A on top of that and expect it to be OK. That's insane.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jicko View Post
OK (after my coffee and on my drive to work), I figured it out, it's similar but definitely not the same mod.

@Antman 's post: ANTMAN'S Thread is to use the wire-tap to sneak out 12V constant ON power, and provide that directly to the front cigarette lighter power socket (or any socket); with the flip on the switch, get it back to original factory config.

@Reata 's post: Reata's Build Thread is to run a wire all the way from the battery to the rear (and even add an "always HOT" cigarette lighter power socket); IMO, this is WAY too much work, IF I don't have to do it (depending on how successful is my suggested mod is)

Now, the mod I suggested in 12v Constant on and/or switched power allows EVERYTHING that is covered by 15A P/OUTLET fuse to be have constant ON power with the flip of the switch. Unfortunately I do not have the 2014/2015 electrical wiring diagrams, so I cannot confirm (until I actually have time to probe around), what are exactly covered with this particular fuse.

This mod should let me avoid the need to run the front-to-back wire, which I consider "lots of work" if I don't need to do it.

Let me execute on this mod first, if it is as useful as I thought it would be, I may consider putting together a simple plug&play kit group-buy for our members.

PS. does anyone have a list of the "EVERYTHING" cover by the 15A P/OUTLET fuse on 2014/2015?
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Old 03-10-2015, 02:33 PM #36
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Really?

I'm not sure why you are quoting posts from me that are almost 4 years old. All of these mods have been done, are used almost every day and were done safely. Check out my build thread and you can see for yourself.

I really do not need a lesson on basic automotive electrical work, but thanks anyway.
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Old 03-10-2015, 02:47 PM #37
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@gunkl , @Antman is good on the electrics, but maybe you can teach him how to fish?
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Old 03-10-2015, 03:11 PM #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limamike View Post
Well, first of all, I plan on doing a dual battery setup in the near future, so it would allow me to run accessories off of one battery at all times while camping or working out of my truck without having the key in the ignition.

Specifically, I'd like it on a switch for a few things:

1. I have a refrigerator in my truck which I would like to stay-on when I have the truck parked without having to leave it on ACC (i.e while filling the gas tank, camping, etc).

2. I have a vehicle "blackbox" which is essentially just a dual channel (in-cab and dash view) geo-rectified DVR with gyros. So, at a certain G-rating on X, Y, or Z it will record as an "event" on an SD card and mark the video 15 seconds before and 60 seconds after the "event". It also records at all times and overwrites itself after the SD card is full. So, I'd like to be able to leave it recording in certain situations since I live in the DC metro area...

3. For the normal incidental stuff like being able to charge my phone (or other device) without having to have my key in the ignition.

Does that make sense?
Well if you want a dual battery setup you are going to have to wire the accessories you want run off the second battery independent of the existing wiring anyway. So you could wire them into a distribution block now fed off the existing battery and then swap it when you move to duals
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Old 03-10-2015, 03:48 PM #39
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Cool, glad they work for you.

I certainly could use a fishing lesson, do you know how to fish?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Antman View Post
Really?

I'm not sure why you are quoting posts from me that are almost 4 years old. All of these mods have been done, are used almost every day and were done safely. Check out my build thread and you can see for yourself.

I really do not need a lesson on basic automotive electrical work, but thanks anyway.
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Old 03-10-2015, 04:14 PM #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunkl View Post
It would be really neat to find the signal wire that flips the relays to enable the 12v sockets. Then you could add a signal wire switch to flip between factory and "always on" very simply. My guess is there isn't a single signal wire that does this, instead, the the sockets are powered when the main accessory bus is ON in the fuse block.
Do you have/study up the electrical wiring diagram? That signal is inside the Driver side J/B Assembly/ECU. What I am suggesting in my mod is basically by passing that (as Toyota decided to seal up 5th gen's relays inside this ECU/junctionbox).

Quote:
Originally Posted by gunkl View Post
So you're probably looking for the holy grail. I've already posted several times about how a 15A fuse addition on a mini-tap is a terrible idea. The right way to handle this is to wire your own cables direct to the battery and fuse them there. I've done this in pretty much every vehicle I've owned (for various reasons, ham/cb radios, etc). It's really *not* that big of a deal, and it's the right way to do this. Just use quality cable with the right AWG for the current you plan to run through it.
I will go measure up the wire gauge and resistance once I get some of these parts in. I am disagreeing with you regarding the mini-tap. The mini-fuse and mini-fuse pin can totally handle the current, and the "wire" that jump from 1 mini-fuse pin to the other will be no less conductive than the wires behind the fuse-box, and the length is short (hence resistance low).

Quote:
For low-current (1-2 Amps max) a mini-tap is probably OK. Just make sure you use a small fuse on it. For 15A, no way in hell. If toyota put a 25A in a socket, that doesn't mean you can add 15A on top of that and expect it to be OK. That's insane.
Look at my diagram again, and look at all the other associated diagrams within the EWD. The circuit that I am tapping into and hacking is a 15A circuit, and the circuit supports that rating (and with lots of de-rating margin too!)

BTW, @Antman 's mod are solid and have no issues. Good to go! I am just putting something a little different on the table.
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Old 03-10-2015, 04:41 PM #41
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is the circuit under DOOR RR not used? (that would explain the blank?)
As much as I dislike the mini-tap idea, if its not in use, that's probably a solid place to get your power.

As far as the way you've wired up the switch - I wouldn't do that either. I'd wire in a relay to do that job, keeping the switch side wiring low-gauge for easy install, and keeping the load bearing circuit out of the way/safe/and routed as short as possible. Then you can just use a nice toggle switch of your choosing and not worry about the load capacity of the switch.

In the end seems like a lot of work but I like where you're going with it, I'll be looking out for your final writeup with pics and stuff showing it working and how you got into the sealed box ;)

There are other good reasons to run a completely new circuit direct to the battery, less system noise from the other electrical components, better grounding, not relying on chassis grounds.
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Old 03-10-2015, 05:13 PM #42
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Do me a favor @gunkl (besides learning how to multi quote and edit posts so you don't have multiple posts) go read @Antman s build thread. After you read it from front to back THEN you can criticize if you think he messed up.
smh....
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Old 03-10-2015, 05:14 PM #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle View Post
@gunkl , @Antman is good on the electrics, but maybe you can teach him how to fish?
I'm no good at fishing, so that would be great.

First off, by no means were my posts meant to be an attack on him or his work, they are just my opinion, I'm always more than happy to hear others. Frankly I was taken aback by the scolding by just merely having replied to an old post in a thread that was recently reactivated. I didn't realize there was a time limit etiquette in place.

I'm sure Antman's mods are solid, he's certainly done a lot of them, I've read through the majority of them. No question there's a wealth of experience and knowledge there I do not have.

When I first posted this I didn't realize they were plugging into a "blank" - unused fuse block spot. That's probably fine. I did notice some discrepancies in his mod thread on mini-tap use, but no need to get into what people don't care about (ie, things that just work and need not be explained?)

I saw plenty of mods with tap connectors, crimp barrels, my all time favorite mini-tap (with two fuses? being added to an inactive circuit?) all kinds of stuff that can cause people nothing but electrical gremlins. So far they've all worked out, it is hard to argue with the end result.

I look forward to meeting anyone and everyone on the forum doing what we love to do - playing with our trucks, that's what we're here for right? I'll be the first to buy you, Antman, and jicko some beers the moment I meet you as far as I'm concerned. We can then all have a good laugh at my V=IR lecture.
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Old 03-10-2015, 05:18 PM #44
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I'll work on the multi-quote, thanks for the tip. As far as reading his thread, I've read what applies to this one and more.

I must have come on too strongly in my personal opinion that mini-taps are a bad idea. But you yourself are apparently an engineer like me, have you ever heard of an engineer that wasn't opinionated?

I'll put you on my beer tab as well, thanks for the tips.


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Do me a favor @gunkl (besides learning how to multi quote and edit posts so you don't have multiple posts) go read @Antman s build thread. After you read it from front to back THEN you can criticize if you think he messed up.
smh....
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Old 11-17-2020, 11:08 AM #45
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Constant Power Port

If you have the drivers side powered seat this modification will work for you. The wiring is easily accessible under the drivers seat by removing the four bolts that fasten the seat to the body and then tilting the seat back. The below picture shows the completed wiring.



The pink wire on the OB1 connector is from the 30 amp battery supply circuit and the white/black wire is the ground. I used Posi-Products Posi-Taps to connect to them.







Here's a picture of the fuse and cigarette extension cord parts I used.



I cut the plug off the extension cord and wired in the jack. The below picture is shown with a dual port USB adapter plugged in.

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