Common Problems


STRAWBERRY MILKSHAKE: Radiator/ Transmission Failure (automatic transmissions only)
While it is a rare occurrence, the most notorious and costly of the known issues is by far, the “strawberry milkshake.” Also known as the ‘pink milkshake’, the cause of the issue is in the pipes in the lower part of the radiator that cools the transmission. The lines are known to corrode and allow the mixing of engine coolant and transmission coolant fluids. The root of this corrosion is from the buildup of minerals in the radiator, regular coolant flushing is a good way to slow this buildup.

When the two fluids mix, the mixture overflows into the coolant overflow reservoir with a fluid that looks a lot like a strawberry milkshake (may be a different color if you dont have TOYOTA red coolant..). If the mixture manages to return to the transmission, it can cause catastrophic damage. Often resulting in a ruined transmission. When a milkshake strikes, you will notice your transmission will not want to shift or hold a gear when moving.

-As stated above, this will only happen to trucks with automatic transmissions. This typically starts to become a concern when the truck gets to be about 8-10 years old. Or even sooner if it is a rusty truck.

Red flags:
As far as detecting one that may have already happened.. When the seller mentions anything about a replaced radiator and transmission having been completely flushed at the same time, that is a BIG sign. If it has a new or rebuilt transmission, make sure it was a dealer install or at least a certified Toyota mechanic. However, if immediate action is taken when a milkshake hits (pull over, shut down, tow to mechanic), the transmission can be saved and should be just fine after a few flushes and a new radiator.

And for predicting one that may be coming.. Regularity of coolant flushes and vehicle age are the only ways. Service records are important for this reason.

Fixes/ How to avoid:
Except for regular coolant flushes as I mentioned before, there are two ways to really avoid a strawberry milkshake. The first is to just replace the radiator before anything happens; every 8 years is a good interval to set for replacement. The second way to avoid the milkshake is to install an external transmission cooler that is separate from the radiator. This removes the possibility of the milkshake ever happening as the radiator and coolant are removed from the equation. These solutions can be combined for intense cooling requirements. The new radiator will be about $150 (Koyo 1998A) and the external transmission cooler will be at least $60 (B&M 70268).

Which method to choose?
-The new radiator is the better option, as these trucks are ready for a new one anyway with the age they are getting to.
-Those who tow more than normal are advised to go with a bigger external cooler. The B&M 70264 is the bigger one, compared to the 70268 that most people get.
-Those in extremely hot climates or who wheel the truck often are advised to go with both, get all the cooling you can get! (external cooler in series with radiator cooling from new radiator)




-As just mentioned, it is a rare failure. But, the costs of preventative maintenance outweigh the costs of repair by thousands of dollars. That is why we stress the fixes as much as we do.

Resource Threads:
T4R radiator design questions / Pink Milkshake - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum
Sweet strawberry milkshake, FML.... - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum
How common is the Pink Milkshake? - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum
B&M 70268 SuperCooler Transmission Cooler Install on a 3rd Gen - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum
Radiators: KOYO vs. The Rest


Photo courtesy of Jon.



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RUST

The 4Runner is susceptible to rust just as any other vehicle is. As you should know, it is mainly caused from driving on salted winter roads, in humid areas, and even if you are dumb enough to drive on the beach. There are some common areas to look at first though.

Main problem areas:
Rear lower control arm mount on frame (most common by far)
Rear axle housing
Rocker panels

Fixes/ How to Avoid:
There are a few ways to avoid rusting on your vehicle. One is to coat the under body of the vehicle with petroleum based oil, motor oil works fine but is illegal to use is some states. There are also other specialized products that are made for this application.

Here is the lower control arm mount as mentioned

Photo courtesy of secretagnt.


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WARPED BRAKE ROTORS/ DEATH WOBBLE

The design of the OEM 4Runner brake rotors is a poor. The rotors are too thin. During periods of heavy, constant braking, the brakes can easily overheat and fade. Overheating rotors can also lead to non-uniform pad material deposits (aka warping). This problem is even more common on 4runners that are lifted and have larger tires. The shuddering when braking with severely warped rotors can be so violent that it can nearly cause loss of control of the vehicle. Warped rotors can also cause issues with the Anti-lock braking system trying to kick in while braking.

Fixes/ How to Avoid:
If you are just going to replace the rotors, get ones that are drilled or slotted to help it stay cooler. Although, this way there is less braking surface. The best option is to swap the entire brake assembly (calipers, rotors, and pads) with that of a 1st generation Toyota Tundra (2000-2006). This "Tundra Brake upgrade" has many advantages to a slotted/drilled OEM replacement. With tundra brakes, the braking power is significantly increased, the rotors last longer, and they are not as vulnerable to warping (all rotors are vulnerable, depending on driving style).

Other Info:
This upgrade is a direct bolt on replacement. The tundra brake calipers are available in 2 sizes, 199mm and 231mm, both diameters require new rotors that are much thicker than the 4runner rotors so they wont warp as easily. The 231mm (13WL) calipers will fit in the OEM 16" wheels, but just barely. The 199mm (S13WE) calipers are a bit smaller than the 231 and fit inside the wheel nearly the same as the bigger of the stock 4runner calipers (on limiteds and sports), they are also a little bit cheaper option most of the time. Both caliper sizes will need new pads and rotors (same size rotor for both sizes of caliper). The parts for this upgrade can cost over $300, but can be well worth it.

Tundra Brake Upgrade - PC'd my Calipers High Gloss Red - YotaTech Forums
Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors
Tundra Rotors vs. 4Runner Rotors

Photo courtesy of BigFishAllDay.




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LOWER BALL JOINT FAILURE

Don't get too freaked out, this is also a fairly uncommon problem. It is mostly an issue of failure to maintain, or if someone disregarded the Recall. In 2005, Toyota recalled over 3/4 of a million 3rd gen 4Runners for this exact issue. The issue is that the Lower ball joint, which holds the spindle and control arms together, can rupture while driving. This will cause the wheel to fall off, break the CV axle on that side, and cause total loss of control which can lead to an accident. The lower ball joint can wear faster than normal on trucks that are lifted, have an aftermarket bumper, and larger tires. This issue will become a concern if the vehicle was called for recall and never brought in, or if the Ball Joints have a very large number of miles on them.

Red Flags:
Stuff like this is the reason you want to test drive. There is only a few ways to know about this potential hazard. If there is any front end noise, rough feeling when steering then that is a sign of trouble ahead. You can lift up the truck and check for excessive play in the front hub. A visual check is also a good way, look for old and worn out material, leaking grease, etc. Just do a quick forum search of 'lower ball joint' and you will find all kinds of stuff.

Fixes/ How to Avoid:
It's simple really, just swap them before something bad happens. Only advice I can give is to only use OEM parts, there are so many horror stories about people using cheap aftermarket brands like Moog. A few members have also figured out that the OEM Tacoma LBJ from the same years are stronger than the 4runner LBJ, link below.
As stated earlier, there was a large-scale recall on this issue, mostly on the '99-'02 years. Stop by your dealer with your VIN and see if your vehicle is still pending the recall.

Reminder: The 4 bolts holding the LBJ to the steering knuckle must be replaced every time they are removed. I almost see as many failures of those bolts as the ball joints themselves, and a failure of those bolts is just as devastating as a ball joint failure.


Resource threads:
Official Lower Ball Joint Write Up Thread
Why you DO NOT want to use MOOG!
Proper Lower Ball Joint Inspection & Testing Procedure
Tacoma Ball Joints
You should replace your ball joints...
Ball Joint Failure - My Turn

Recall information:
http://www.toyota-4Runner.org/proble...nt-recall.html


To check the Toyota maintenance records on your 4runner, register the VIN on Toyota Owners' website:
Toyota Owners Official Web Site: Service Coupons, Owner's Manuals, Service Scheduling And More


Photo courtesy of sprockmember.


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Small Common Problems:
Just a few more small things to take a look at while you are looking for a 4runner.

Dead Clock.
The clocks on all 3rd gens are known to just die all of the sudden. No warning sings, but easy fix. You can also just get one from a junkyard 4runner.
-Solved with details: 3rd generation 4Runner digital clock revived (tooth surgery)

Rear Coil Springs Sagging.
Earlier 3rd gens had a recall on the rear springs, but all 3rd gens are known to sag. Almost any 4runner you go to look at will be sagging. Best fix is to get new OEM springs or go ahead and get lifted. The springs from a 1999 are going to be taller than other springs, so if you replace yours, ask for springs from a 99 SR5 4x4 3.4L V6.
-About rear sag
-Rear Coil Advice - 2002 SR5 Sport 4WD

Power Antenna Motor Failure.
A very common issue. The gears in the power antenna motor can grind and get broken. Also if the antenna gets bent, it will not go down properly and will also cause the gears to grind. The common fix is to swap the motorized antenna assembly with a non-motorized antenna out of a 1st generation Tacoma. Search "Tacoma Whip mod" for more info.
-Power Antenna Motor?

Leaking Rear Axle Seal
The cause of this issue is the seal at the bearings on the rear axle. The failure in question is credited to a few things; one is the apparent poor design or quality of the OEM axle seals. Another is a failure of the axle breather plug to not accommodate the changes in pressures inside the axle. It is also common for this to occur when you switch to the thinner Synthetic Fluids. It is noticeable by a large amount of grease that will cover the rear tires and wheels. When you notice a seal has begun to leak, you can either have a dealer replace them, or do it yourself with the help of the write-up that has been linked to below.
Rear Axle Seals: The Ultimate Information and Replacement Thread (3rd gen)

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Regular Maintenance Items:

Here is a thread that will help with many of the maintenance, repairs and modifications you may need to get done.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...reference.html
Links to all of the below maintenance items can be found here.

Another good resource to check out is the NCTTORA FSM, it contains diagrams and step by step instructions for prettymuch every single component on these trucks.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/index.html


-TIMING BELT / WATER PUMP- Every 90k miles. This service costs $600-$700 at most dealers. Make sure the seller is up to date on this one!

-TRANSMISSION FLUID- About every 40k miles. At the dealer: $80 transmission service.

-DIFFERENTIAL FLUIDS & ENGINE COOLANT- About every 30k miles. At the dealer: $130 4x4 differentials service.

-LOWER BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT- About every 150k miles. Sooner on lifted vehicles.

-SPARK PLUGS & WIRES- Every 30-40k miles. Less than $50 for everything, easy DIY.

-ENGINE OIL- 3k miles for regular oil, 6k miles for synthetic.

-Everything else like lights and brakes are based on usage and not necessarily miles.




The 3rd gen 4runner is often regarded as the most reliable and dependable of all the 4runners. The 3.4L V6 developed by Hino (owned by Toyota) was designed specifically to be a trouble-free workhorse. When properly maintained, your 4runner will go well beyond 400k miles and last for generations to come.