2001 Sequoia has up too a 8.4 amp draw. And drops to a 3.2 amp draw after about 5 hrs.

How I took those reading are, dvm set to DC auto amp scale. Black lead on the negative battery terminal. Positive lead on the disconnected negative batt terminal. Test done with all doors closed and key out of ignition. A few seconds or 30 min has the same large draw reading of 4.30 amps.

Things I did so far. Disconnected the starter, alternator, pulled every fuse and relay in the engine compartment and interior, disconnected the wiring harness going into the interior, pulled both passenger and drivers door lock/window switch pannel. Disconnect the back door window ecu/window motor harness. Disconnected the upper console map lights, mileage display, and rear view mirror (auto dimmer, compass). Pulled and disconnected the stock hvac controls and stock radio.

After going through all those steps amp draw never dropped bellow 4.30 amps.

Things I never tried are disconect the main ecu and trailer module/ecu.

Any electronic gurus out there? Trying to brain storm and what else to check.
I really could use your feed back and help.

You've eliminated a lot of things. What still works with all you've disconnected? Horn and lights still work? Turn the key, do the idiot lights come on? When testing, hear any relays clicking? Random voltage checks in the wiring harness

Thanks for the reply!

I never thought of cranking and or powering up the system while unplugging/disconnecting.

Would that prove wires shorting and transfering voltages to eachother?

No, that's highly unlikely. If wires short they will blow a fuse or burn through.

I meant that with the ignition turned off, some things will still work. You've pulled all the fuses but there are things that will still work, like lights and horn. Even the radio has an 'always on' connection to maintain all of your stations and equalizer settings, but there's probably a fuse for that. Any after market stuff like a remote starter? Any lights staying on?

You say after a number of hours the amps drained is lower, but probably because the battery voltage is dropping from the drain. You've pulled all the fuses out, breakers out and leave them out and it's still drawing amps? When you disconnect the negative battery cable and reconnect you should get a pretty good spark if it's drawing that many amps and it won't take long to drain the battery.

I hate wiring problems because they are so hard to chase down. You've done a lot of work tracking it down.

I been using a wiring diagram specific to the 01 Sequoia.

I been doing a remove fuse/relay and check for draw, and replace fuse/relay back in. I went down the line on what's in the fuse boxes.
I didn't take out all the fuse/relays all at once.

I also looked up circuits and removed whatever powers that specific circuit to no avail.

Oh ok, yes I'm aware of the always on circuits such as horns, hazards, map lights, head/tail lights (although the head/tailights gets shut off with the ingition).

Whatever that draw is, is huge. It's sitting at 8 amps right now. Batt is disconnected because of the draw. I only connected back up if I need power in the wiring, or if I'm checking circuits.

Suv starts up fine everytime. Alt jumps to 14.4v and settles at 13.6

I'm thinking if it's the ecu that powers the injectors? Or some dealer added item.

It has a stock toyota alarm that came with the car when it was bought. The radio is also stock toyota that came with the car.

Other than that, no other added electronic devices. It does have the tow package.

I'm stumped. Tempted to unplug and disconnect the engine ecu to see if that ecu is the one that has that huge draw.

The suv does have stability and traction control lights on. I disconnected the abs module and fuses on that circuit. No change in draw.

I isolated the towing module by removing 5 fuses to that circuit. No change in draw. Sitting at 7.79 amp in parasitic draw

I would keep the ammeter connected and start pulling fuses. Take a photo of each fuse box before starting and make a list/diagram of what amp fuse goes in what slot. Don't put them back in. Pull a fuse then check the ammeter. No effect? Go to the next fuse. I would think that eventually you're going to pull a fuse and that draw will stop and you'll know what circuit has the problem.

That's how I would approach it. You have a real head-scratcher. I know there is a draw on vehicles now for a number of components but that seems to be very high. We left our Sienna in the garage for 2 months and when we came back the battery was stone dead. Now when we travel I connect a charger to the battery and put the charger on a timer; half hour in the morning and again in the afternoon.

Yes, will do that next. I will work on the 2 fuse boxes in the engine compartment by pulling the fuses and relays all out, and leaving them out.
If no results, I will move to the body control module fuses.
Thanks for the thoughts.

I have been dealing with a ~180Ma draw for a while now (should be 50-60Ma). Pulled fuses, replaced battery, had dealer do Parasitic draw test (deler tested fine). 8.4 amp draw is insane and must be terrible to deal with, must be a major problem to pull that much voltage.

In dealing with my 1yr Parasitic draw dilemma i have learned a few tricks in testing the draw. Like using a Digital Clamp Meter rather than pulling the negative battery terminal. And testing voltage loss from each fuse with a meter rather than pulling them.

I also have a lot of aftermarket things that can cause this if they are having an issue and next i'll be pulling them till i figure it out. Electrical issues are such a pain in the ass.

Have you tried pulling the Short pin fuse? Its used for transportation to the states and kills a lot of power consuming items. May help narrow it down.

Yes, I agree. 50mA is the acceptable goal with any system. I think the smaller draws are more tough to figure out, cause almost any device within the circuit is capable of that small amount.

I figure me, being at 7.75 amps last night would be a cake walk to troubleshoot. Radio, lights, motors...are all capable of producing that kind of level of draw. What gets me puzzled is I disconnected/unplugged most of the high amp devices to no effect.

Hmm, start pin fuse makes sense. When is that located? I dont see it in the wiring diagrams.

I've pulled majority of the fuses. Except the higher 120 amp bolt on fuse and other bolt on fuses that require taking apart the engine fuse box to get to.

I have a clamp on Klein meter and I never got it to work. I failed to test the clamp before the return policy lapsed.

My next move to is to totally remove all the fuses and leave them removed one by one. Hopefully that will cut the draw. Hoping..

Yeah, a large draw like that should be easier to find unless its accumulative. Finding this small one seems impossible.

In my 4Runner the Short pin fuse is in the under hood fuse box. It will act like removing a boatload of fuses. It looks different than all other fuses and should be labeled.

I got a UNI-T UT21 Digital Clamp Meter off Amazon which has been awesome. Clamp though not as accurate, it's so much easier.

Well'p, I pulled all the fuses in the 2 engine compartment fuse boxes (except the 120 bolt on alt fuse, and the 60 amp bolt on abs fuse.) Those I disconnected the alt power wire and wire terminal. I also unplugged the abs Terminal going into the abs.

I also pulled all fuses in the interior fuse box.

Damn, still has the 7.78 draw.

Only thing I see connected is the 6 gauge wire going to the starter.

Could it be?? It's gonna be a bear to get to on a 2uz.

Thanks @ArthurKotb @Ripper238 for chiming in, helping a brother out.

Not meaning to cast aspersions but you have cleaned the battery terminals (no dielectric grease between post and clamp), ground strap to body (even if it looks clean) and positive cable to starter (even if it looks clean) haven't you?

Just checking

Put a clamp meter on that 6ga cable to the starter. That's a quick way to find out. How are you measuring the draw?

Oh I reread your first post. You put the DMM inline. Can you disconnect that 6ga cable, or is it crimped to the main line?

Haha, no worries. I appreciate the look out.

I been on here long enough to know clean doesnt mean good, you still need to go through them. I've read too many members get burned by "it looks good"

Yup, no to dielectric grease. Those insulate, not looking to do that in my situation.
So far, I took off the ground point by the battery, cleaned the wire ends, bolt and fender surface compact point with a wire brush until shiny. I might be replacing that wire, seems compromise by past battery acid. Wire still passes voltage drop test though.

I also did the same treatment for the fuseable link and starter cable coming off the positive batt terminal (bought new pos batt terminal from toyota). I wire brushed the neg batt terminal. Battery is new less than 48 hrs old.

I'll also be hitting the rest of the ground points with the wire brush.

I read that some members were using NoOx, and NoAlOx. They say those greases enhance conductivity while protecting against oxidation. I wondered about those. For this go around, I left those connections dry.

The 6ga has a lug that bolts onto the pos terminal. That, and the fusible link are the only one left still conected to power, and has a 7 amp draw. Draw is still there with either wire attached. Of course no draw, if both wires removed from terminal

All the fuses are pulled out of the 3 fuse boxes, except the bolted on 120 amp and 60 amp fuse.