2001 Sequoia has up too a 8.4 amp draw. And drops to a 3.2 amp draw after about 5 hrs.

How I took those reading are, dvm set to DC auto amp scale. Black lead on the negative battery terminal. Positive lead on the disconnected negative batt terminal. Test done with all doors closed and key out of ignition. A few seconds or 30 min has the same large draw reading of 4.30 amps.

Things I did so far. Disconnected the starter, alternator, pulled every fuse and relay in the engine compartment and interior, disconnected the wiring harness going into the interior, pulled both passenger and drivers door lock/window switch pannel. Disconnect the back door window ecu/window motor harness. Disconnected the upper console map lights, mileage display, and rear view mirror (auto dimmer, compass). Pulled and disconnected the stock hvac controls and stock radio.

After going through all those steps amp draw never dropped bellow 4.30 amps.

Things I never tried are disconect the main ecu and trailer module/ecu.

Any electronic gurus out there? Trying to brain storm and what else to check.
I really could use your feed back and help.

You've eliminated a lot of things. What still works with all you've disconnected? Horn and lights still work? Turn the key, do the idiot lights come on? When testing, hear any relays clicking? Random voltage checks in the wiring harness

Thanks for the reply!

I never thought of cranking and or powering up the system while unplugging/disconnecting.

Would that prove wires shorting and transfering voltages to eachother?

No, that's highly unlikely. If wires short they will blow a fuse or burn through.

I meant that with the ignition turned off, some things will still work. You've pulled all the fuses but there are things that will still work, like lights and horn. Even the radio has an 'always on' connection to maintain all of your stations and equalizer settings, but there's probably a fuse for that. Any after market stuff like a remote starter? Any lights staying on?

You say after a number of hours the amps drained is lower, but probably because the battery voltage is dropping from the drain. You've pulled all the fuses out, breakers out and leave them out and it's still drawing amps? When you disconnect the negative battery cable and reconnect you should get a pretty good spark if it's drawing that many amps and it won't take long to drain the battery.

I hate wiring problems because they are so hard to chase down. You've done a lot of work tracking it down.

I been using a wiring diagram specific to the 01 Sequoia.

I been doing a remove fuse/relay and check for draw, and replace fuse/relay back in. I went down the line on what's in the fuse boxes.
I didn't take out all the fuse/relays all at once.

I also looked up circuits and removed whatever powers that specific circuit to no avail.

Oh ok, yes I'm aware of the always on circuits such as horns, hazards, map lights, head/tail lights (although the head/tailights gets shut off with the ingition).

Whatever that draw is, is huge. It's sitting at 8 amps right now. Batt is disconnected because of the draw. I only connected back up if I need power in the wiring, or if I'm checking circuits.

Suv starts up fine everytime. Alt jumps to 14.4v and settles at 13.6

I'm thinking if it's the ecu that powers the injectors? Or some dealer added item.

It has a stock toyota alarm that came with the car when it was bought. The radio is also stock toyota that came with the car.

Other than that, no other added electronic devices. It does have the tow package.

I'm stumped. Tempted to unplug and disconnect the engine ecu to see if that ecu is the one that has that huge draw.

The suv does have stability and traction control lights on. I disconnected the abs module and fuses on that circuit. No change in draw.

I isolated the towing module by removing 5 fuses to that circuit. No change in draw. Sitting at 7.79 amp in parasitic draw