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Old 12-19-2011, 12:08 PM #1
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Question 90 4runner problems?

i have a 90 with the 3vze v6 auto 4wd. i have a few questions i was hoping people on here could help me out please.

1st question - Cruise Control:

my cruise control isnt working. i click the button to turn it on and my dash shows it being on but when i go to set it. it wont hold my speed but if i click the accel button it will downshift and pick up speed and then after i release it will upshift. could anyone help me on why the cruise wont stay set?

2nd question - Starting Problems:

this happens randomly. when i go to start sometimes all i will get is a single click noise. i have an alarm and i had the people disable the starter kill thinking that was it. that didnt work. then i relaced the starter and that didnt work either. but when the starting problem happens i have to get out and tap the starter 2 times and it will start right up. its more of an annoyance when i have to get out and do that. my dad thinks it might have to do with something in the ignition. but im not sure. (if need to i can create a video showing what it does)

3rd question - Rear window defogger:

the defogger wont turn on for some reason i click the button to turn it on. the light comes on but it doesnt defog the rear window. i checked the fuse thinking that was it. but the fuse was perfectly fine. anyone have an idea of why it wont turn on is it because of age or is it unplugged from the rear window?

thanks for taking the time to look at my thread. i am hoping to get all these problems resolved
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:26 PM #2
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In order you asked:

1. Speed control/ via throttle assembly; is controlled by a vacuum system. Vacuum cruise control's are notorious for going bad due to a crack/leak in the vacuum line. My guess is there is a 1. part ECU component and 1. part Vacuum line. The vacuum line physically HOLDS the throttle open to maintain speed. The ECU talks with the transmission auto computer to determine shift points. So the electrical element via the downshift is still working. The actual throttle is not being held by a vacuum anymore.

- Suggestion? Look for leaks in the vacuum line, or a burnt vacuum pump.



2. Probably a bad/erratic power connection. I had a similar problem, turned out to be a loose connection at the battery terminal. Check your connections.


3. Again.. electrical connection. The light on your dash is a simple "complete circuit" indicator. The electrical line to the rear defroster passes through that. My guess is, check the ends of the physical defrost connection. On the rear tailgate an in the rear door. It can become corroded, so that while power is being sent to the defrost system... it can't get past corrosion on the leads to the physical in glass heating array.






In short. All of these sound like the age old issues you could expect to experience on a 20 year old vehicle. Some slight lead corrosion, battery contact corrosion and the high probability you have a leak in the vacuum line running the cruise control.

No one replaces that line, until it stops working. I have to imagine you have 20 year old vacuum tubing on your truck..
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:14 PM #3
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Clicking is an indication your starter is going. It will continue to get worse until it won't start. Simple fix, 2 bolts 2 wires.

Check that the connection by the passenger side rear window toward the front is plugged in. If you look by the passenger rear seatbelt it will be obvious where it connects. Often this gets knocked out and the circuit is no longer complete to defrost.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:22 PM #4
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If you noticed, he replaced his starter.
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Old 12-21-2011, 10:09 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DC runner View Post
In order you asked:

1. Speed control/ via throttle assembly; is controlled by a vacuum system. Vacuum cruise control's are notorious for going bad due to a crack/leak in the vacuum line. My guess is there is a 1. part ECU component and 1. part Vacuum line. The vacuum line physically HOLDS the throttle open to maintain speed. The ECU talks with the transmission auto computer to determine shift points. So the electrical element via the downshift is still working. The actual throttle is not being held by a vacuum anymore.

- Suggestion? Look for leaks in the vacuum line, or a burnt vacuum pump.
checked the Vacuum lines they seem to be in good condition. i was thinking maybe its not getting enough suction. so i am going to zip tie them and see if that helps.
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Old 12-22-2011, 01:33 AM #6
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For No. 2 I'd check out your ignition switch. Had the same erratic starting earlier this year, which I just lived with until it just stopped working. Pulled out the old switch and it was all burnt/falling apart. Might be your problem too.
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Old 03-12-2017, 10:51 PM #7
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This could help me...!!! I have a 94 that is experiencing all 3 problems, most concerning is the starter... already bought a new starter for 170... maybe will take it back

Thank you
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Old 03-13-2017, 08:33 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kc1994 View Post
This could help me...!!! I have a 94 that is experiencing all 3 problems, most concerning is the starter... already bought a new starter for 170... maybe will take it back

Thank you
I just fixed the intermittent click-no start on my '91 this past weekend. Since you bought a new starter that leads me to believe you have the same problem my 4Runner has (old and corroded wiring). I bought a Painless Wiring - Hot Shot Relay. Took me an hour to install (mainly getting around all the clutter near the starter) and fixed my click-no start. The relay is basically there to power your starter straight from the battery, bypassing the shitty wiring. It costs around $40 and saves you from being stranded anywhere due to overheated starter wiring. Would highly recommend.
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:43 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skoozin View Post
I just fixed the intermittent click-no start on my '91 this past weekend. Since you bought a new starter that leads me to believe you have the same problem my 4Runner has (old and corroded wiring). I bought a Painless Wiring - Hot Shot Relay. Took me an hour to install (mainly getting around all the clutter near the starter) and fixed my click-no start. The relay is basically there to power your starter straight from the battery, bypassing the shitty wiring. It costs around $40 and saves you from being stranded anywhere due to overheated starter wiring. Would highly recommend.
I might just try that. I also got my new starter in yesterday after church, thank God. I fought and fought with it .. took about a half hour just to get it outta the wheel-well. And 25 minutes for the new starter to get in the wheel-well.
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