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Old 02-13-2012, 11:18 PM #1
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'92 4runner 302/350 engine swap

Hey guys,

So I'm going to do an engine swap, using either a 302 or 350 small block. What I plan on, is using NW Offroad custom bellhousings, clutch plates, engine mounts, etc. to bolt the engine to my stock transmission & T-case, running a level 3 clutch, and getting the computer/wiring harness for it modded to plug & play with my transmission & guages.

Has anyone ever done the 302/350 swap? If so, what do you think the best options are, that will be the cheapest & still get a lot oh HP, etc.

Also, do you think my stock axles should withstand the power? I won't be gunning it 24/7 so I'd "ass-u-me" it should be OK. I know the tranny & T-case will hold.

Thoughts/opinions?
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:02 AM #2
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Well you're in luck, I have done several 350 and 1 302 conversions.
I do not recommend using a stock transmission. For stock parts you can get away with a 4cyl t-case and axles (solid front). stock transmissions do not like v8 torque, even on mild builds.

I am hard on trucks. That being said, i ran a stock 4cyl case and pretty stock axles on my pickups and 4runners. They eventually said FU but that was after much torment. I had a 385 fast burn in my old 4runner and it took a 5k rpm neutral drop for my t-case to explode and by explode i mean the input shaft snapped clean off.

if you want to run a 350 get a th350 trans behind it. Add that with a 4cyl crossmember and t-case and you have a factory length setup. (didnt have to change my driveshafts out)

I have used NWOR stuff and advance adapters stuff. My opinion is go with advanced. use block hugger headers, both of their header systems leak, at least mine did.

302 is going to cost more simply because its ford and they usually do. You will have more room in the engine compartment and I went with a c4 transmission due to it being smaller and fitting better in the tunnel.

I could go on and on about v8 swap stuff but its late, i just got back from korea so im jet lagged severely. If you have any specific questions let me know.
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:06 AM #3
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Good to have you back Nate.. Thanks for serving!
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:12 AM #4
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What he said, welcome back.
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:12 AM #5
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Thanks Hyde, i am soo relieved to be back, saw the 4runner for the first time today and was soo stoked. It's like a new rig all over again. Just tore open one of the boxes to my new bead locks and dang near shed a tear. Im currently prepping everything for the move from colorado to missouri but i am soo close to being back in the game!
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:16 AM #6
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I just finished doing a 350, priest. I used the NWOR mounts, headers, and clutch kit (which is simply the Advance Adapters kit) with the Centerforce clutch/press. plate. For wiring, I used Howell Eng. Dev.'s harness and computer (I'm using TBI, not carb), which makes the important stuff plug-n-play, using GM factory connectors. According to the research I did, the stock Yota drivetrain is supposed to handle the abuse of a stock V8, but they do caution against driving like a maniac with it. I would recommend upgrading your axle shafts/birfields at the least. My engine is staying stock tune, with the exception of the headers (which are necessary, as the stock manifolds are aimed right at the frame). You will have to move the whole drivetrain back about 4 inches for radiator clearance, which means buying/making a crossmember extension, and redoing the driveshafts. For cooling, you'll need a large electric pusher fan where the A/C currently resides (yup, it goes bye-bye, unless you want to fabricate a new front end). You will also need to get a 3-inch body lift to clear the headers and distributor, unless you want to make your own mounts which drop the engine down between the frame rails, with the resulting clearance issues with the front suspension. 4Crawler has a sweet lift for this, with steering extension, etc.. Anyway, to keep from making a book here, you can PM me about other changes that were necessary, or we can break it down here over a few posts if you like. Best of luck!

Update: Nate (Gonovr) has done more than one--I have only done one, so there may be things I could've done differently that he would already know. Cheers.
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Last edited by BucknutBob; 02-14-2012 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 02-14-2012, 02:32 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GonOvr View Post
Well you're in luck, I have done several 350 and 1 302 conversions.
I do not recommend using a stock transmission. For stock parts you can get away with a 4cyl t-case and axles (solid front). stock transmissions do not like v8 torque, even on mild builds.

I am hard on trucks. That being said, i ran a stock 4cyl case and pretty stock axles on my pickups and 4runners. They eventually said FU but that was after much torment. I had a 385 fast burn in my old 4runner and it took a 5k rpm neutral drop for my t-case to explode and by explode i mean the input shaft snapped clean off.

if you want to run a 350 get a th350 trans behind it. Add that with a 4cyl crossmember and t-case and you have a factory length setup. (didnt have to change my driveshafts out)

I have used NWOR stuff and advance adapters stuff. My opinion is go with advanced. use block hugger headers, both of their header systems leak, at least mine did.

302 is going to cost more simply because its ford and they usually do. You will have more room in the engine compartment and I went with a c4 transmission due to it being smaller and fitting better in the tunnel.

I could go on and on about v8 swap stuff but its late, i just got back from korea so im jet lagged severely. If you have any specific questions let me know.
In other words, a Chevy 350 w/ a th350 4wd & a yota pickup 4cyl t-case & crossmember, & I should be able to use my factory axles & driveshafts? Just buy the adapter kit for the tranny to bolt to the t-case? I'd like to run manual still, & what size gears you say, 4.55s or so?

How much do you say you did it for, & do you have a parts list? I'd still like to use my A/C & Heater, as Texas weather in the Summer now-a-days SUCKS.


Also on a side-note, welcome back state-side brother, whats your rank if I may ask? I'm shipping for AF hopefully soon to do my thang, but I'll still be on a lmt budget, so I want to get as much HP out of an engine swap as I can, since I feel like my 3.slo will get rear-ended from not being fast enough to get on the on-ramp of the highway LOL
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'92 4runner 4x4
Rancho 9k's, Maxxis Mudds 32/10.5/15 3.56's | 2 10
Cobalts w/ an 800w amp, MA Audio speakers w/ 300w amp,
Soon to come - 3" lift, 35's on 4.88s, 350 swap.
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Old 02-14-2012, 02:38 AM #8
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Oh, also! Bucknut, whats the sites for the harness & wiring? They have adaptors to fit the comp/harness to my yota gauges?
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Rancho 9k's, Maxxis Mudds 32/10.5/15 3.56's | 2 10
Cobalts w/ an 800w amp, MA Audio speakers w/ 300w amp,
Soon to come - 3" lift, 35's on 4.88s, 350 swap.
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Old 02-14-2012, 03:41 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by priestsallore View Post
Oh, also! Bucknut, whats the sites for the harness & wiring? They have adaptors to fit the comp/harness to my yota gauges?
Howell Engine Development. This is only for the engine controls--your gauges will still run through the Yoya's harness, or just run new ones direct. Since the water temp and oil press. factory units don't have numerical values, I went with aftermarket on those--the others will work fine using the factory stuff. Here's another thing the parts places don't tell you--since the GM starter uses a ton of current, and the Yota ignition switch doesn't provide that, you need a separate circuit for starting. I used a Ford starter solenoid for my relay, using the ignition just to close the relay, and the battery's current going directly to the starter through the solenoid--works like a charm.
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Old 02-15-2012, 11:26 AM #10
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Cool, thanks for the advice. One friend of mine said go for the 700r in the tranny due to it being a 4spd and getting alot better mpg & more power, though I'd need to buy a shorter driveshaft.

Will be giving it a whirl in the next month or two after I ship out, gotta save up the money. Thanks!
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'92 4runner 4x4
Rancho 9k's, Maxxis Mudds 32/10.5/15 3.56's | 2 10
Cobalts w/ an 800w amp, MA Audio speakers w/ 300w amp,
Soon to come - 3" lift, 35's on 4.88s, 350 swap.
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