Hi everyone, ive used this forumn many times, but this is my first time posting (so if I posted this in wrong place please let me know!). I have a 1984 4runner with a 22R, my alternator went out yesterday so today I tried to remove it. All was going smoothly until I got to the bottom 14mm bolt (I believe its called the pivot bolt). The nut is on the back, so I threw an open ended spanner on the back (handle of wrench was hitting the frame to lock it in place). I then got my ratcheting socket and started going at it from the front (bolt head). However, it felt too easy from the very get-go. The bolt was spinning, the back nut was in locked in place, BUT the bolt wasnt backing out. Im assuming the threads on the nut are stripped since the bolt was just spinning inside of the nut (and I can see metal shavings on the part of the bolt that is exposed beyond the nut, about 3 threads are sticking out beyond the nut) (again, nut was locked in place).
So now this project is on hold until I can get the nut off the bolt, in order to pull the bolt through and out of the alternator. I have always heard of dreaded situations like this, but this is the first time it has happened to me in such a tight location. I was thinking of cutting off the back off the nut with an angle grinder, but my angle grinder cant fit in there to get to the nut. What was supposed to be a quick project is turning into a real PITA, and I need to use my car to return home from college for spring break at the end of this week. If anyone has any advice on getting the nut off the bolt, and the bolt out, please let me know!
I am trying to attach a video of the nut locked in place, with the bolt spinning inside the nut, but im not sure if I uploaded it correctly. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
If you can get a small screw driver blade under the bolt head and pry on it while you turn it, it may grab and start to back out, then see if you can grab it with vice grips and pull as you turn.
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2003 Limited, V8, AWD. 4600 Bils/FJ springs, 1/2" spacer, SPC UCA, Super Pro bushings in front LCA and in all rear control arms, Michelin 265/65R17 LTX/Defenders, stock wheels with homemade center caps, Stop Tech slotted rotors w/Posi Quiet pads all around.
Okay thanks for the tip! I tried getting a screw driver under the nut on the backside while slowly turning, but there wasnt a large enough cap. I will try the same strategy from the front with the screw driver under the bolt head instead of the nut on the back. If that doesn't work any other tips? I have one friend telling me to torch the nut to get it to expand off the bolt and hopefully slip off, and another friend telling me to torch the bolt, to get it to expand inside the nut and maybe that will get the threads to catch. If screwdriver doesn't work and I try the blowtorch, do you recommend any of those 2 strategies?
Try a Dremel tool with a cut off blade. Much smaller than an angle grinder.
Or, if you can screw a second nut onto the end of the bolt you are trying to remove and snug up the two nuts tight so they are locked in place and so that the faces of the nuts match up. Then place a box wrench on, spanning the two nuts so they are both forced to twist together. Or best, if you can weld together. Then try loosening the bolt. Twisting loose in the threads of the new, outer nut may allow a successful extraction.
Or if you can get a hacksaw blade in there, try cutting the bolt. Wrap electrical tape around one end on the blade so you can hold it without cutting your hands. Maybe the use of the Dremel tool on this end might also work.
Either electric or compressed air, is it space enought to get this tool inside and just grind the nut off? possible replace the bolt if you grind the threads also.