08-14-2012, 11:47 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Oregon
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Oregon
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Clutch staying partially engaged
I rebuilt my motor about 5 thousand miles ago in my 1st gen 4runner. It's got the 22re 5 sp. When I pulled the motor, I also put in a new clutch kit. 2 weeks ago my clutch started to make a weird noise, so I pulled the tranny. My throwout bearing (only 5 thousand miles on it) was wore down close to the clips. The clutch disk, pressure plate and flywheel all looked good, but i replaced them all anyways. I got it all back together and it is driving and shifting fine.
Here's the problem. My clutch pedal engages at the top, and i think is why the throwout bearing wore so fast. I tried adjusting it by pulling the pin on the pedal and tweaking the push pin that goes into the master cylinder. This did not do any noticeable difference. I checked the slave cylinder (which I replaced not long before the motor) and it was right up against the fork even though not engaged. I took it to a tranny shop and the guy told me to cut the pin that is attached on the pedal in order for it to engage later. I think the guy is full of crap and there has got to be a better way. Anyone experienced this and know a possible solution? Thank you
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1989 4runner 22re 5sp, 4inch susp, 3 body, 2in extended shackle in rear, 35inch kumho mt's 5 29s, Yukon Grizzly locker in rear
1986 4runner 22re 5sp STOCK
1982 Toyota P/U 3.8l Buick 4inch lift, 38's
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08-15-2012, 06:44 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Lancaster, OH
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I haven't had to deal with this on a Runner yet, so I'm not sure if this applies--is the actuator rod in the slave cylinder threaded, to where you could screw it in or out to change the engagement point? My current one is aftermarket (it's a larger Landcruiser unit), and the fork end is threaded, with locking nuts that I can move back and forth as needed. Just thinking out loud.
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Former owner of four Runners: three 2nd Gens and one 1st Gen. Idle for now, but will be back in one again before too long.
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08-15-2012, 09:18 AM
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#3
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: the Socialist State of Maryland
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You should not have to butcher a part to get it to work correctly.
You need to find out what is really wrong and correct it.
My first thought is it's an installation problem.
Are you sure the TO bearing and fork are installed correctly?
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'84 4Runner - ARBed 5.29s F&R, 4.7 & 2.28 t-cases, 2" drive train lift, BudBuilt x-member/skid, 30 spl Longs
'83 Toy P/U - Buick 231 V6, Holley 4 bbl, Weiand intake, Downey headers, TH350 w/700R4 low gearset,
'89 4Runner SR5 - stock
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08-15-2012, 06:06 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Oregon
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BucknutBob
I haven't had to deal with this on a Runner yet, so I'm not sure if this applies--is the actuator rod in the slave cylinder threaded, to where you could screw it in or out to change the engagement point? My current one is aftermarket (it's a larger Landcruiser unit), and the fork end is threaded, with locking nuts that I can move back and forth as needed. Just thinking out loud.
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It is not threaded and can not be adjusted. Mine is after market too. Thinking I will buy a new one and see if that is my problem.
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1989 4runner 22re 5sp, 4inch susp, 3 body, 2in extended shackle in rear, 35inch kumho mt's 5 29s, Yukon Grizzly locker in rear
1986 4runner 22re 5sp STOCK
1982 Toyota P/U 3.8l Buick 4inch lift, 38's
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08-15-2012, 06:13 PM
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#5
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Oregon
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourwd1
You should not have to butcher a part to get it to work correctly.
You need to find out what is really wrong and correct it.
My first thought is it's an installation problem.
Are you sure the TO bearing and fork are installed correctly?
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TO bearing was installed properly. Checked before I took it off. I took off the fork when I replaced the TO bearing and made sure it was on correctly. So I am pretty sure neither are the problem.
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1989 4runner 22re 5sp, 4inch susp, 3 body, 2in extended shackle in rear, 35inch kumho mt's 5 29s, Yukon Grizzly locker in rear
1986 4runner 22re 5sp STOCK
1982 Toyota P/U 3.8l Buick 4inch lift, 38's
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08-15-2012, 06:14 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: washington
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you need to shorten the MC pushrod.
for whatever reason, i have ran into a couple that were too long, and when adjusted as short as they would go, before hitting the pin, it still wasnt in the right spot.
and we had to cut 1/4" or so off the threaded end.
make sure this is what you need BEFORE you cut it.
and also, try this before you buy another one.
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