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Old 01-17-2014, 12:44 PM #46
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Got most of my steering parts in yesterday. Ill have a better update after the weekend, but heres the teaser.

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Old 01-17-2014, 01:29 PM #47
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Quote:
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With that out of the way I put the front axle together.



Still need to work the break shims to get the rotor to line up with the caliper. but still..

are you planning to run some inset wheels? the scrub with that set-up is going to be bad. steering effort will be very high.

im building a front 60 so I can do just the opposite, and get the tire more centered over the steering axis.
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Old 01-17-2014, 02:43 PM #48
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I guess by running heims on the pitman you won't have much clearance problem with the frame.
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Old 01-17-2014, 03:01 PM #49
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nevada-I wont be running wheel spacers (IFS hubs), so Its actually just narrower than a stock 85 axle with 2" wheel spacers that everybody and their brother runs, So I should be fine.

Brif- Thats the plan! I should have pics of it together after the weekend.
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Last edited by Hyde802; 01-17-2014 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 01-17-2014, 03:21 PM #50
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Quote:
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nevada-I wont be running wheel spacers (IFS hubs), so Its actually just narrower than a stock 85 axle with 2" wheel spacers that everybody and their brother runs, So I should be fine.

Brif- Thats the plan! I should have pics of it together after the weekend.
I hope it works out for you.

its hard to tell but by that pic, it looks like the center line of the tire is going to be way outside the trunions.

I have this going on with my truck. im running very deep backspaced wheels, the scrub is terrible, steering effort is HIGH, and being spooled, turning sucks. it pushes badly.
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:48 PM #51
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Heres some comparison pics. These are RuffStuff 7/8th hemis vs the stock 85 tierods.







Mock up.



Going to notch the frame for the bolt. I got it to sit a little tighter, but the overall length of the hemi with the misalignment spacers and bolt is pretty long..



Had to take just a hair off each washer to get the calipers to sit perfect, and they JUST barley clean the inside of the 15" rim. . Tierod is done, but waiting for one joint to come in before I can finish up the drag link.



With the wheel on

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Old 01-26-2014, 10:50 PM #52
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Got my box mounted and frame notched. Going to box in above the notch and the back side of the frame a bit, It will be plenty strong, youll see.








Also made it out into the woods this weekend with some friends, and had some company in the shop





Pictures here: Royalton Hill Snow Run 2014 Photos by ediblecrayons03 | Photobucket
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Last edited by Hyde802; 02-24-2014 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 01-27-2014, 04:54 AM #53
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Pure awesome.
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:56 PM #54
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Did you have to cut the core support out a bit?
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Old 01-28-2014, 02:20 PM #55
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brifri- I had to cut out the back of the core support, but the front is still there.

Got my tanning booth set up



Got the frame finished and boxed on all sides and mounted the steering box.



Like a glove.



And the other side. I trimmed the smaller spacer on the drivers side for more up travel but didnt do this side because I didnt need to, but it looks pretty goofy being so tall. There is about 1/8th of an inch between the hemis at the closest point. Plenty of room!

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Last edited by Hyde802; 02-08-2014 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 02-16-2014, 12:52 AM #56
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Steering is done, just add fluid.

Shes sittin on all 4s.



Tire to tierod clearance.









Front had 2ish inches more to droop, other side can go up about another inch. Ill get final travel measurements tomorrow so I can figure out what I need for shocks.
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Last edited by Hyde802; 02-16-2014 at 12:57 AM.
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Old 02-16-2014, 11:38 PM #57
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Looks great Hyde. Flexes good. Did you flex it to see if the sector shaft hits at full stuff? I'm trying to decide on my placement, and whether it's worth notching frame.
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Old 02-17-2014, 08:20 AM #58
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Quote:
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Looks great Hyde. Flexes good. Did you flex it to see if the sector shaft hits at full stuff? I'm trying to decide on my placement, and whether it's worth notching frame.
Flexed it out a little better last night with the help of the excavator. Looks like the 12" shocks will work fine for me. Pitman arm clears the frame/springs fine, but the draglink starts to hit the frame on the pass frame rail just after the leafs start to go negative, so instead of notching the frame, Ill just bumpstop it and call it good. The drivers spring hit the bottom of the hemi before the tierod hits the frame, so im going to try grind down the mis alignment spacers a little more, so I should be good there too.

The chevies dont flex as well as I would have liked, but there is no weight back there so ill wait a bit before looking for a different set of springs.









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Old 02-22-2014, 12:25 AM #59
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Intake is a little wonky, but it cleaned up the engine bay, which is what I was after.



Front shock mock up. They are the 12" ford shocks with ford shock towers. Set for 3.5" up travel and 8.5" down. Should be plenty of travel.



Finished pic, Bumpstop is some small daystar (or something) on the spring plate, and bumps against the frame, just before the tie rod hits it.



Rear shock setup. Same Ford shocks and towers, but cut the towers down to fit.



Made a square shaft out of 2 single joint yokes. Used 2.5" Receiver tubing (no inside seam) and some 2" .25 wall tube for the inside part. It required re drilling the mounting pattern on the t case output, but wasnt a big deal. . (more angle than a clearanced CV joint, 42 vs 35) And took it for a drive!



I need to get a small piece of gas line tomorrow after work, but expect some action shots soon, and plans are now being drafted up for a bed/cage







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92 ExtraCab on 38s: built for go, not for show
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Its all about the parts you break, and the friends you make.

Last edited by Hyde802; 02-22-2014 at 12:45 AM.
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Old 02-23-2014, 07:58 PM #60
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holy crap Hyde thats lookin great!
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