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Old 08-13-2014, 05:20 AM #31
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Duty Calls....
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 01-05-2015 at 04:06 AM.
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Old 08-27-2014, 05:37 PM #32
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Windshield Trim Delete Final Chapter: Glass Re-Installed

Need to revise write-up because original solution failed. During original install the flap of the rubber trim was pushing against the body. I think it prevented proper sealing by the urethane. Even I if I had silicone sealant over the urethane, it still leaked.

Chrome trim is only there for looks. IT IS ACTUALLY BAD for the body. It catches and TRAPS debris and worse yet, saltwater dripping from water sports equipment.


IF you only have freshwater dripping on your windshield, the rubber gasket like on old VW Beetles may work. However, water still seeps into the interface between rubber and body metal and stays there longer than if it were openly exposed to air. For saltwater exposure...

HERE's the FINAL SOLUTION:
Safelite replaced under warranty as follows:

Removed old glass
Removed old sealant
Applied rubber trim around glass. Trim is not used to seal. It is cosmetic but helps protect the edge of glass from accidental stresses.



Notice how the corners curl up? When glass is placed on bead of urethane, that curl will push glass away from the body, UNLESS something is used to clamp glass toward the body.

I want the gap to be well-exposed to air and not hidden to allow easy cleaning, rinsing and quick drying, so I asked glass tech to CUT OFF the "wings/flap" before installing the glass. No actual pic but here's an illustration:

Installed glass as usual. Left gap so it does not TRAP debris and is easy to rinse/clean. It does not look bad. Even IF it looked ugly, I'd rather have an ugly gap than rusted body around windshield.

This is what I mean by rinsing the gap. You could not do this thoroughly if it were covered by rubber or chrome trim...
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 04-24-2015 at 11:39 PM. Reason: Editing For Details...
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Old 09-24-2014, 11:21 PM #33
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Refurbished Quarter Vent Louvers

When rubber slats on the quarter vent louver are gone, water sprayed horizontally (such as from car wash) could get inside the body panels and cause damage such as shorting/corroding the rear window/wiper control relay module.

Could have used mountain bike inner tube but did nothave any handy so, I used rubber sheet from Marshall's Industrial Hardware that's approximately 1/32-inch thick to make the slats...


Here I marked where to slit/poke holes for mounting...

Assembled:


Assembly detail:

I used soldering iron to remove mushroom head on plastic heat stake and re-staked after installing slats.

Here are retainers needed for First-gen MoreFunner...


It is almost impossible to remove vent cover without breaking these retainers so make sure you have some ready before starting the project.

Upper retainers are PN 62955-89101, 4 per side on first-gen MoreFunner
Lowers are PN 62955-91C01, 1 per side on first-gen MoreFunner





Louver re-installed:

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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 09-25-2014 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 10-19-2014, 06:47 AM #34
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Removed and Replaced Starter

Background:
About 2 years ago, I fixed the faulty wiring (by poor Toyota design as explained here) and got rid of the intermittent starting issue.
Recently, I had intermittent issue again, but this time problem must be caused by bad solenoid contacts. When I get the chance, I will perform autopsy on old starter to confirm and update this thread.

Earlier, RustBucket on yotatech mentioned that the 1.4-kW one for the auto transmission (part 280-0131) will plug-and-play on the 22R-E with manual transmission. Furthermore, Toyota Parts Zone does not carry the 1.0-kW starter anymore so, yes, I bought the REMAN STARTER 1.4KW Part Number 28100-35060-84. (Ideally I could simply take out starter, replace the solenoid contacts, and re-install. However, I would not know whether existing starter is O.E.M., or after-market, or 1.0-kW, or 1.4-kW version, and what type contacts to buy, etc. until I removed and inspected the starter so that would mean more down-time for me.)


Replacement Procedure:

Disconnect Positive Battery Connector and ensure there is absolutely no possibility of it moving and touching the positive battery post.

Remove Right-front wheel for easy access, observing all necessary safety precautions- jack stand, proper chock, emergency brake on, Wheel under front axle for added safety.

Remove access panel

Close-up of work area.


This is the battery positive-to-starter cable.


Disconnect positive battery cable from main positive screw-on terminal of starter.


Here's the starter solenoid coil positive terminal.


Disconnect starter solenoid coil positive terminal and the oil pressure sender connector for extra room to work.


To clearly show how starter is mounted here is picture with starter removed ....

Top is secured with a nut, bottom is secured with a bolt. Bolt diameter is 10mm. Wrench size is 14mm.

I don't get why many say that it is tricky to remove and replace the starter. I found both top and bottom are easily accessible with a combination of:
  • Shallow 14mm socket,
  • 6-inch extension and
  • ratchet or torque wrench

Room for wrench on top mounting nut:


Room for wrench on bottom mounting bolt:


Remove starter and replace in reverse order. The 1.0-kW or 1.4-kW replacement starter is absolutely plug-and-play; absolutely no complications. However,R&R would go smoother if you gathered the following necessary specs before hand (and not get your manual and computer messy like I did when doing it in the middle of the procedure-LOL!)
  • Mounting Bolt Torque: I used 35 foot-pounds. I'm still verifying. FSM appendix B-2 (standard bolt torque specs) does not show this Bolt Class mark that is on the mounting bolt.
  • Positive terminal (Copper) nut torque: Still unknown. I just "felt" mine.

Here's standard bolts specs from FSM:

Note that it does not include class mark on my mounting bolts.

Here are torque specs for 10-mm bolt. Based on above, would you think that my mounting bolts are 8T. Any thoughts? For now, I just torqued them to 35 foot-pounds to be safe.
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 01-12-2015 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 10-19-2014, 07:49 AM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner View Post
RustBucket on yotatech
I hate that jerk. His truck is exactly like @Hyde802 's, I think he stole it from him.

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Remove access panel
You mean you put yours back the last time? Dork.

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Disconnect starter solenoid coil positive terminal and this (oil pressure sender)?
Yup, that's the oil pressure sender. Yours is the DLX idiot light style. Those of us that are awesome and have SR5 gauges have a much bigger sender in the same spot.

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I don't get why many say that it is tricky to remove and replace the starter.
That's because you've got an IFS and automatic. Try this chore with a shock tower and a bunch of clutch crap in your way and you'll change your tune.

The correct torque setting for those bolts is "good and tight" - that's one of those areas where it's not critical I don't think. The bolts/studs aren't so small that you have to worry about stretching or breaking them, and it's not like a head bolt or oil pan bolt where exact clamping pressure is required, so as long as the lockwashers are in decent shape just I snug 'em up good and get on with it.

Nice writeup.
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Last edited by KidVermicious; 10-19-2014 at 07:52 AM.
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Old 10-20-2014, 02:20 AM #36
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LOL! Thanks, KidV.
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If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
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Old 10-20-2014, 08:49 AM #37
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the difficulty wasn't in removing the starter, it was during the reinstallation. the lower starter bolt also serves as the location for one of the clutch slave cylinder mounting points, and it is very difficult to get everything lined up, as it is a tight fit. you cannot access the lower bolt efficiently/readily from the access panel in a 4r equipped with the manual transmission, the tubing for the clutch cylinder prohibit that.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:11 AM #38
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interesting that you chose to purchase a starter (somewhat spendy) rather than purchase two sets of contacts for the solenoid (much less spendy, even to purchase a pair that won't work for your solenoid). downtime would have been however long it took to replace the contacts in the solenoid. i had mine out and in in less than 4 hours.
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Old 10-20-2014, 02:58 PM #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KidVermicious View Post
That's because you've got an IFS and automatic. Try this chore with a shock tower and a bunch of clutch crap in your way and you'll change your tune...
Quote:
Originally Posted by wallytoo View Post
... the lower starter bolt also serves as the location for one of the clutch slave cylinder mounting points, and it is very difficult to get everything lined up, as it is a tight fit. you cannot access the lower bolt efficiently/readily from the access panel in a 4r equipped with the manual transmission, the tubing for the clutch cylinder prohibit that.
Hi KidV and Wallytoo...
Interesting...
I have a basic manual transmission. Yes, bracket for clutch slave cylinder shares bottom mounting bolt, but nothing gets in the way.
Could you be referring to a truck with the upgraded dual-transfer case? maybe my truck is missing something there? LOL!

Quote:
Originally Posted by wallytoo View Post
interesting that you chose to purchase a starter (somewhat spendy) rather than purchase two sets of contacts for the solenoid (much less spendy, even to purchase a pair that won't work for your solenoid). downtime would have been however long it took to replace the contacts in the solenoid. i had mine out and in in less than 4 hours.
One could not really be sure whether or not the existing starter is stock after-market, or IF OEM whether it is he original 1.0 kW (discontinued) or newer 1.4kW (which I ended up purchasing). So, not sure which solenoid contact to buy.

When I finally had the starter out here it is. it doesn't look nearly like the Denso one I got from Toyota Parts Zone, and it does not have Denso or Toyota label on it. Now I'm afraid it might not qualify for core refund. Oh well, the truck deserves good reliable parts, anyway. Good for another 200k miles, I hope - LOL!

Here's are the new and old side by side. Do you guys know if old one is Toyota/Denso from how it looks?



Also found the washer that lands on the contact pitted. I'm sure it can be polished/cleaned but IF it were too bad, it would have to be replaced. Couldn't find procedure for removing and replacing washer.
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If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:38 PM #40
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RAD,

the starter you removed does not look like a denso unit. the one still in my rig, that i replaced the solenoid contacts for, looks like your new toyota unit, albeit with more corrosion and a slightly longer main body. note how the "cap" attachment is tacked onto the side of the cover, while the toyota has cast lugs integral with the cap. you'd have to pull the solenoid assembly cover off to see if the contacts are the same as the denso type that are commonly available and easy to replace.

as far as getting the wrench on the lower bolt, i was able to do it (not easy, but doable), the issue i ran into was getting the bolt to thread into the bellhousing, since the slave mount kept "torquing" the unit out of alignment. without the slave mount, it would be simple to install. getting the bolt aligned with the hole is difficult, because of the tubing.

i'd be curious about the solenoid contacts in your old starter. what do they look like?

which washer that "lands on the contact"? inside the solenoid body?

wally
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Old 10-21-2014, 02:59 AM #41
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Hi KidV ...
Interesting...
I have a basic manual transmission. Yes, bracket for clutch slave cylinder shares bottom mounting bolt, but nothing gets in the way.
Could you be referring to a truck with the upgraded dual-transfer case? maybe my truck is missing something there? LOL!
Nope, no duals here (yet). Maybe it was the combination of shock tower and clutch lines that gave me such grief, but when I did the starter and fuel filter on my current truck I had to struggle to get sockets on nuts. I think I used every wobble and extension in my toolbox.

I never did put the fuel filter back, it lived on my fender after that.
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:11 AM #42
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I hate that jerk. His truck is exactly like @Hyde802 's, I think he stole it from him.
RustBucket has a 88 22re runner. I think your thinking of RattleWagon, that guys the jerk! Does have a nice truck though... /end hijack.
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:15 AM #43
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Oh, my bad. You're right, RattleWagon is the jerk.
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Old 11-09-2014, 08:59 PM #44
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How Rear Window Control Works

Duplicate post
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 01-30-2015 at 06:11 AM. Reason: Duplicate post
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Old 11-09-2014, 09:02 PM #45
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How Rear Window Control Works

Rear Window/Wiper Relay is behind panel near driver side seatbealt mechanism here:


Relevant wiring runs behind panel near left side of rollbar here:


Top Off Switch is also there.


Connector for Rear Window & Wiper Relay here:

Up-Down pins to use so you would not need ignition to be on are pins 11 & 12

Check against schematic here:




Pin Numbering here:


Location of Circuit breaker here:


How backdoor window control switch (aka key switch) works:
Wire to pin 11 (light blue-white stripe) when connected to ground (via terminal 3 of top-off switch) will lower window.
Wire to pin 12 (lt blue-blk stripe) when connected to ground (via terminal 3 of top-off switch) will raise window.
(To test relay function, touching directly to chassis ground will work regardless of state of top off switch)

Console switch Operation:
Connecting wire going to pin 4 (Green with yel stripe) to ground (via window Down button, door lock button, top-off switch, and rear door clock switch) will lower window,
Connecting Pin5 to ground (Red yellow stripe) in same manner as above will raise it.

To test relay function (see schematic), assuming it has power, bypass up/down switch, door lock switch, top-off switch,a nd rear door lock detect switch:
Jump one of the pins above at a time, directly to ground and see if relay produces proper out voltage and polarity at pins 1 & 3
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 01-30-2015 at 06:11 AM.
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