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Old 01-25-2013, 02:40 AM #1
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Ruby Tuesday - rad4runner's Mods and Restoration

Well... these are not hard-core restoration write-ups, strictly-speaking, but mostly enhancements, mods, fixes...
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:46 AM #2
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Solution For "Click-Only" Start Issue

This is the clean, simple, robust fix for the starting (cranking) circuit wiring flaw explained here. This mod fixed my "click-only" starting issue. No additional or replacement parts, except for wire and a kill switch.

THIS APPLIES TO MODELS WITH STARTER RELAY, SUCH AS:
Those made from May 1986 and later.
Those made earlier than May Like richiegrich's Feb, and KidV's do not have starter relay.

Schematic below shows that high current (12-Amps) to energize starter solenoid passes through ST1 contacts of ignition switch. This puts unnecessary stress on switch contacts, cause pitting, high resistance, too much voltage drop (solenoid not getting enough voltage), and defeats purpose of adding the relay in the first place.


To verify if your stock wiring has this flaw:


To correct:
Cut wire to pin 4 of starter relay here:


Picture here:

Insulate end on harness. This will not connect to anything anymore.

It should look like this now.


To find Pin3, look for terminal of 40-Amp fuse that connects to 80A Fusible link. This is terminal 4. Terminal 3 is the opposite terminal. To verify that you have the right Pin3 of FL, measure voltage there. With 40-Amp fuse installed, you should get 12V. Remove 40-amp fuse, you should get no voltage.
Connect (crimp or crimp PLUS solder) wire from Start relay Pin 4 to Terminal 3 of FL.


Fusible Link is in this fuse block:


Terminal 3 is accessible from bottom.

IIRC, this picture shows Terminal 3 removed so I can tap into it.
Verify it is Pin3, such that when you remove FL you do not get +12V, and you get +12V when FL is re-installed.

When you make a tap, make sure you have both mechanical & electrical integrity (i.e., crimp OR wrap around existing wire then solder).

It would be nice to insert a kill switch in wire between FL and start relay. Hide it and don't post where you put it here (duh!). Bonus is that kill switch will interrupt power in the extremely rare case that starter relay contacts get welded in closed position. Final circuit should look like this:

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A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 08-18-2014 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 01-27-2013, 03:20 PM #3
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Alternator Upgrade To 90-Amp Stator >> What's This Part?

I recently had AES in San Diego install a stock body alternator with stator upgraded to 90-Amp one. Before I add any auxiliary equipment (lights/audio system), I would upgrade my wiring.

One important part of of a robust upgrade would be to super-size (double to be safe) effective wire thicknesses of the following:
  • Alternator-to-battery positive wire (traced in yellow on schematic below),
  • Battery-to-engine block ground wire (this is where it connects to alternator ground, and
  • Battery to fender ground (this is where many accessories, lights, ignition, etc) systems return.

Any additional circuit should be tapped off the upgraded alt-to-batt wire and properly fused. This way alt and battery will provide current / aid each other depending on demand, via safe paths - proper wire capacity, proper auxiliary fuses and stock fuses that are not bypassed.



I would simply put another wire in parallel with existing alt-to-batt wire. However, there is a cube looking thing around the alt-to-batt wire. It does not show in schematic above. Could this simply be a ferrite noise suppression core? It could be a current sensing coil, but I do not see any wires connected to it. Does anyone now what it is?


Guys, I finally opened it up. It's just a junction point. No foreseen use at all, and is another potential point of failure from corrosion or loose nut & bolt. I will eliminate when I upgrade my alt-to-battery wire.

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If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
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Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-10-2013 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:05 AM #4
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Kinda looks like a ferrite choke.
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:40 AM #5
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Wait, who's choking ferrets now?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner View Post
Any additional circuit should be tapped off the upgraded alt-to-batt wire and properly fused. This way alt and battery will provide current / aid each other depending on demand, via safe paths - proper wire capacity, proper auxiliary fuses and stock fuses that are not bypassed.
Can you rephrase that for us slow children? If I drop in an auxiliary fuse block, you're saying don't feed it straight off the positive battery terminal?
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Last edited by KidVermicious; 01-30-2013 at 05:44 AM.
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:17 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92-SR5 View Post
Kinda looks like a ferrite choke.
Oh yes, I meant "Ferrite" Core, 'cause nothing's wired to it. Thanks, 92-SR5

Quote:
Originally Posted by KidVermicious View Post
Wait, who's choking ferrets now?
I meant Ferret - LOL!

Quote:
Can you rephrase that for us slow children? If I drop in an auxiliary fuse block, you're saying don't feed it straight off the positive battery terminal?
Correct, KidV. Worst-case scenario (maybe remote possibility but): If there is demand for current up to capacity of upgraded alternator, the stock alt-to-batt wire will not handle the 120-Amperes or 90-amperes from alt.

That's why I want to super-size that wire by wiring one of same size in parallel. If anyone has that wire /sees that in a junkyard, please advise how much it would cost including shipping.
Else, I'll just get new wire of thicker gauge and replace stock one.
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:30 AM #7
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Relocate Rear Window & Wiper Switch

I relocated my console switches to the dash because they are in a retarded location subject to spilled drinks, AND in order to make way for future cup holder. Finally got the chance to post it here.

To remove radio section faceplate, remove this front screw, left & right sides:


Pop these tabs out;


Work area is under Driver's Seat:
Before:


I do not need seat buckle switch so I removed and will re-use as connectors for my overhead deck lamp for when top has to come off. If you want to keep as much wire on the connector as possible, trace white one where it splices into others along threshold. Trace black wire all the way back to kick panel connector. Cut but leave 2-3 inches on latter connector for future use.
Label each wire before cutting. Make sure both sides have labels .
Splice approx 4 feet of additional wire to each orig. wire to leave you room to work with. Splice on segment of wire on connector/switch side.


I ran harness along here:




Route wires so you have enough slack to handle connectors when removing or installing face plate.


New Harness Routing.
3/8-inch conduit tube is too thin. Better to use 0.5-inch diameter one.


Notch Transmission Cover To Clear Harness:
Front


Rear


Checking Clearances:
Make harness hug the plastic so repeated shifting does not disturb it.




Rear Clearance:


Front Clearance:


Final Product:

Window switches here.


Where lock switch went, there is already a capped opening- just pop cap off. Fits standard 4Runner switch profile.
Where Up/Down switch is there was cut-out waiting to be cut. Just cut tabs off and clean up. Save this tab for template for additional switch locations. To mount a third switch between the 2, use tab above as template. Make sure you make opening slightly smaller than the template. I used tiny dill bit to outline the cut, finish cut with thin soldering tip, and cleaned up with needle file.

Wiper Switch Forward of windshield wiper lever. I used tab above as template. I used tiny dill bit to outline the cut, finish cut with thin soldering tip, and cleaned up with needle file.

If you have cruise control switch here (forward of wiper stalk), mount wiper switch together with window switches above the radio.


Available Real Estate: My Console Begging Me to Mod Her for a Cupholder =D




Next Step Cup Holder Mod (Work in Progress)
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 07-24-2015 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:02 AM #8
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Headlight Circuit Retrofit

Stock:
  • Dimmer (combo) stalk switch contacts carry high current for headlights.
  • Wires are thin.
  • Ground circuit goes on thin wires (AWG 18/20?), from bulbs, to cabin, to dash to dimmer switch, back to engine compartment to ground inside passenger side fender (exactly a convoluted path as 4Crawler describes it), causing a lot of resistance, a lot of voltage drop (15% of battery voltage measured in high beam) and reducing voltage that ends up across the bulbs.
  • High current (traced in red; 10 Amps on 60-watt high beam, 17 Amps on 100-watt high beams) through dimmer switch contacts will shorten contact life.


Shortcuts:
Bulb upgrades increase light output but only mask the problem, above conditions still exist.
Using 55/100 bulbs makes issue with higher current (17 Amps in High beam) through dimmer-switch worse.

H4 conversion harness:
Conversion harness is a a robust, clean solution IF made well (where are they made? =D).
However, I want my mods uncluttered, simple, with minimal additional parts. So here goes (Not for the filum-phobic - LOL!):

As of 1205 Hrs, 01Apr2013:
  • Used only one additional part, a 5-pin relay, plus solder & wiring supplies.
  • Uses existing headlight fuses
  • Upgraded to thicker 12AWG wires, from fuses to ground
  • Ground path goes directly from bulb to relay to fender ground, minimizing voltage drops.
  • Relay carries headlight current, helping extend dimmer switch life.
  • Using normally-closed contact 87A replicates stock circuit for low beam. Even IF relay fails (no power, no ground, or coil open), low beam will still work.

Schematic is here (Slumming with MS Paint 'cause I lost Auto CAD license with upgrade to Windows 7 ] :


Voltage Drop Comparisons:
Expressed as % of battery voltage because batt voltage not exactly same before and after retrofit.
With Sealed Beam & Stock Wiring, Engine off
Low Beam:
Batt: 12.05V, Bulb 11.15V
Voltage drop in wiring: 0.9V
volt drop = 7.5%
High Beam:
Batt 11.94, bulb 10.07
Volt drop: 15.7%
After Retrofit:
Low Beam:
Batt: 12.31V, Bulb 12.11V
Volt Drop: 0.2 = 1.6% of Battery voltage
High Beam:
Batt: 12.24V, bulb 11.78V
Voltage drop: =0.46V = 3.75% of battery voltage
Still To Do:
High beam indicator circuit TBD after I find junction as noted on schematic.
I could connect positive side of high-beam indicator to 87a, but that would still put some current through dimmer-switch contacts. Looking for better solution as soon as I physically find the junction of HL contact of dimmer switch and positive side of high-beam indicator.

keyword search H4 conversion, H4 convert, headlight retrofit, headlightretrofit
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-26-2018 at 09:53 PM. Reason: Updated with voltage drop before-after comparison
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:05 PM #9
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Divide & Conquer!

Splitting the troubleshooting area in half helps simplify troubleshooting and and makes it less overwhelming.

The starter solenoid is a good place to divide a cranking issue. Test from solenoid and downstream, then test from control wire (that plugs into it) and upstream.

To test downstream...

This setup will help you troubleshoot and/or get you started If something keeps power from getting to your starter solenoid coil. I used it to verify what my suspected problem was.

For troubleshooting:
To check solenoid and downstream to starter motor, clutch gear and flywheel,
Disconnect this female spade connector from starter solenoid. (This connector supplies power from starter relay to the starter solenoid)


Connect quarter-inch female spade of special tool to male spade on solenoid (where you just disconnected wire from).
Connect Alligator clip to battery plussitive
Run end of setup with push-button to driver side.

Ensure safety - neutral, tie not dangling near fans nor belts, etc
Push button on. Solenoid should clunk, solenoid contacts will close sending cranking current from superthick wire (connected to battery and screwed-on to terminal on solenoid) to starter motor. Motor should turn, solenoid plunger will actuate clutch, engage starter gears with flywheel gears. You should already know how starter alone or starter engaged with flywheel sounds when turning. See what does not do what it's supposed to do, and go from there.

If all from solenoid and downstream works, troubleshoot from that female spade terminal, upstream to your ignition switch.

To start when you know solenoid and downstream is good, but power is not going to your solenoid coil (i.e., clutch switch defective, starter solenoid defective), or not enough power is getting to your solenoid coil (i.e., wiring flaw explained on my thread), and you have no assistant to jump battery directly to solenoid, do same while attempting to start- at the wheel of course.

Heck!
If you really have to start the engine by yourself while you're looking into the engine compartment, use in combination with the other Special Service Tool - LOL!
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 11-18-2015 at 02:04 AM.
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:16 AM #10
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nice writeups on the mods.
I need to do the switch relocate to the dash, also need to move my ECU to behind the glove box.
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:59 PM #11
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Rear Window Control From INSIDE Rear Deck

This mod will allow one to roll rear window down from inside the rear deck (i.e., when camping in truck), without having to scramble over to front, put key in ignition in order to lower window from console switch.

Rear Window/Wiper Relay is behind panel near driver side seatbealt mechanism here:


Relevant wiring runs behind panel near left side of rollbar here:

Top Off Switch is also there.

Connector for Rear Window & Wiper Relay here:


Check against schematic here:



Pin Numbering here:


This mod will duplicate exactly what the key switch does:
Mod Schematic is here:


Wire to pin 11 (light blue-white stripe) when connected to ground (via terminal 3 of top-off switch) will lower window.
Wire to pin 12 (lt blue-blk stripe) when connected to ground (via terminal 3 of top-off switch) will raise window.
(To test relay function, touching directly to chassis ground will work regardless of state of top off switch)

Wire a momentary SPDT with center-off switch (Up/Down) exactly same and in parallel with backdoor control switch (key switch),
I recommend to:
  • Locate switches so they are shielded from cargo by roll-bar, and
  • Add fail-safe feature by inserting SPST window lock switch between center terminal of Up/Down switch and terminal 3 of top off switch. (i.e., cargo un-intentionally presses against any of the switches.)
You can do this by carefully stripping off insulation on wires above, and tapping into them. As you can see in pic below, I have labeled Light blue wire with white stripe "DN". Near label, Lt Blue Wire with Black stripe had been stripped to accept tap for "UP" wire.


Good place to connect center terminal of SPDT (Up/Down) switch is on this crimp, just forward of top off switch:


Console switch Operation:
In same manner, touching wire going to pin 4 (Green with yel stripe) will lower window, and Pin5 to ground (Red yellow stripe) will raise it. This is where console switch connects. Connecting directly to ground bypasses console rear window lock and rear door lock detection switches.

Here it is in use:
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 04-06-2019 at 05:39 AM.
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Old 05-27-2013, 12:02 AM #12
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Great posts. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:37 PM #13
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Cube On Alternator-To-Battery Wire

Hi guys,
Earlier, I asked what that cube that looks like ferrite choke is around alternator-to-battery wire. Tunrs out to be just another junction point. I updated alternator upgrade post where it was mentioned.
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
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Old 06-13-2013, 03:13 AM #14
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No More Brittle Grille Mounting Clips

I detest hidden/snap-in mounting hardware. Since I was replacing my sealed beams with the AutoPal housings, I also modified my grill mounting.



I replaced the snap in clips with expansion nuts from Autozone.

From this:


... to this:


Trimmed posts down to first shoulder.


To something like this (pic of a different post)


Opened up slot to accommodate #12 sheet metal screws


I also cut the tip off so the sheet metal screws were down to around 0.75 inch. This way they will not stick out beyond the back of the expansion nut and hit parts behind it.

Now I would not have to grope for release tabs and/or break brittle clips to remove grille; just use common philips screwdriver.
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
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Old 06-19-2013, 03:34 AM #15
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Poor Management of Back-up Switch Wiring

Who TF is the genius who combined non-critical back-up light with critical circuits like ECT and Alternator ?!!
Engine fuse sends power to backup light circuit (yellow rectangle below), and more critical circuits like ECT and Alternator
86-88 4Runner schematic page 2 column 1:


86-88 4Runner schematic page 3 column 1:


This wire, carrying +12V, rubs against transmission body (Encircled in red below), from vibration, especially from unsecured connector that is heavier than the wire.


On Youtube here

Eventually insulation could wear out, short to ground, and blow Engine Fuse (15A). Engine fuse supplies critical parts like the ECT and the excitation field for alternator

Final Solution:
  • Shielded wire with a flexible plastic conduit from the connector, to junction with 4WD switch wire, to past the starter, where there was little chance of rubbing against metal parts.
  • Also did same to 4WD switch wires.
  • Secured connector to transmission body.

This is a good example of why switched ground, where possible, is better than switched positive. Here, when wire shorts to ground, it blows a critical fuse. If the circuit were switched ground (i.e., where this wire provides ground to a relay) and this wire shorts to ground, reverse light will merely come on. No harm done - Heck, I see a lot of Jaguars, Audis and Mercedes on the freeway like that
__________________
86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 01-23-2015 at 04:48 AM. Reason: added final solution
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