Hey all,

Here's my intro from a few weeks back.

Here's a list of some of the things I've done since getting the truck:

1. Put in a thermostat and replaced coolant
2. Seafoamed through brake booster and crankcase (changed the oil a couple of times)
3. Pulled the throtle body and thoroughly cleaned it
4. Removed the pinstripe from one side
5. Cumbustion leak test through the radiator; no indication of exhaust in the coolant

I yanked the spark plugs out to do a compression check and then realized I forgot the engine needed to be warm, so no compression check yet. I've already bought rebuilt CV axles from NAPA and Pro Comp ES9000 shocks to go on. It seems I have a rear main seal leak, so I think I'll just drop everything and do it all at once: the seal, a new clutch, plate and bearings, cv axles and shocks. I'm not sure of the status of the transfer case. Once it's out, I'll open it up and see what I can see. I haven't used the 4wd yet other than when I test drove it. I didn't hear any noises other than the clicking cv joints.

This vehicle was equipped with a tire swing gate. At some point in it's life, the truck was rearended and the tailgate was replaced with a tailgate that didn't have a swing gate. I have all the old parts and tailgate, so I'm currently working on retro fitting the bracket back on. The plate inside the tailgate was pretty easy to remove, just drilled out the spot welds. The outside trim piece is still good too. Here are some links I'm using to help with this process: window removal and retrofit. Fortunately the original rear quarter panel is still there, so no mod needed.

I'm not positive about the whole top end and HG status. At some point, I'm going to replace the water pump and timing belt. I figured I'd go ahead and replace the HG and have the heads gone over. Plus replace all the other little things one should when doing the heads.

-Mike

I'd do everything on the engine at once because you are going to have it apart anyways.(HG, timing, etc) At least that's what I would do.

That's sort of my plan. I keep vacillating between pulling the whole motor and doing a complete rebuild, or just doing the top end. I kind of think it would be easier to pull the motor even if I only did the top end. Especially if I plan on doing the clutch and rear main seal. A compression check should help me make up my mind.

The engine has 170K miles on it. I would love to be able to drive this thing cross country on a family camping trip. Even if I buy everything engnbldr.com has to sell for my motor plus all the machine shop work, I should still be under $1K for an almost new motor. A motor that I know was done correctly and built with decent parts. engnbldr.com does sell decent parts, right?

lordy.... more to come!

I can't say from experience, but many people on this forum like their products. They look like a good source.

This doesn't look like the most ideal fix. Moog coils and a1" to 1.5" coil lift is the better fix Correct?

All I gotta say is, WTF?
Anyways, are you looking to remove the rear sag and return to stock height, or actually lift it above stock height?

Mostly return to stock height. I've already bought shocks for the standard height: Pro Comp ES9000 (front exp914014 9.25"-13.96" and rear exp921513 13.06" - 21.75"). I might be able to get away with a slight height increase, but probably not much. Amazon has the coils + Daystar KT09100BK 1.25" spacers for $100 and free shipping; which seems like a hard deal to beat. Might as well do it all at the same time.

not sure how much the spacers are on their own, but I had my moogs shipped from rockauto and they were $55. You can always find a valid 5% discount code as well.

I don't like the way Toyota designed the wheel wells... I'm back to stock height but it has the appearance of sagging. I think an inch or two on the back would make it look level.

NicnMike.....check the classifieds....I have many parts for the 3.0L V6 for sale.....hoses, Tblet, Vbelts, etc, that may help both of us

I was able to install the swing gate last weekend. It wasn't too difficult. I did have to modify the plate that goes inside the tailgate a little, but not much. I'll post pictures soon.

I also checked my compression last night and had a range of 160 - 175 psi. They were mostly 160 to 165 with one being a little over 170. So good news there! I tried checking my timing, but had difficulty seeing the timing mark. I should have looked for it when I had all the spark plugs out, oh well.

I ordered the springs and spacer, so when I have time, I'll be replacing the CV axles, shocks, coils, fuel filter and, since the truck will be jacked up, the rear main seal. I'll also do a good inspection of the clutch components.

A little further in the future, I'd like to check the valves and replace the leaky valve cover gasket. (and inspect all the stuff under the intake)

Not too much longer and I'll feel good about taking the truck out further than around town!

Here's some pics of the the swing gate. I cobbled the old trim with the new. I am now pretty proficient at removing the rear window regulator. Sorry about the last pic being blurred.

How can you tell if your torsion bars have been adjusted? I just finished installing the moog springs with 1.25" spacers and I don't see a difference in height. Granted, there was the ghetto spring spreader spacer things installed prior, so I didn't expect much, if any difference. Here is a picture of the top of the bolt and one of my cv axle.





Still sitting on cv axles, front shocks and a bunch of new gaskets! I just ordered an IR 231c impact wrench, so maybe things will go a little quicker next time!

Based on your CV angle, I don't think you've got much if any torsion bar crank.

Here's how much I'm in it at this point. I still need to make a trip to the machine shop. This doesn't include shipping (which might be another $100 total):


Gasket set 98 engnbldr
head bolts 39 engnbldr
clutch kit 28 rockauto
timingbelt kit (w/water pump) 109.79 rockauto
spark plugs and wires 40 rockauto
rotor and cap 13.5 rockauto
clutch slave cylinder 14.77 rockauto
Dist. Gasket 1.31 rockauto
Rad fan clutch bracket 116.89 rockauto
Stab bar link 16.97 rockauto
Harmonic balancer 64.61 Amazon
injector parts 33 ebay
exhaust studs and nuts 43 toyotapartszone
crushable washers 18.78 toyotapartszone
knock sensor pig tail 10.75 toyotapartszone
oil coolant lines 32 toyotapartszone
vacuum lines
AC parts
Machine shop

680.37

I've been using Toyota Parts - Genuine Toyota and Scion Parts | Toyota Parts Overstock | ToyotaPartsOverstock.com to look up parts because they have nice diagrams and then using the part numbers to find stuff on toyotapartszone (it it impossible to find stuff on that site). Next time the valve covers start to get leaky, I'm going to replace them immediately! That engine was nasty! I've never worked on a dirtier engine in my life!

Nice work. But why are you taking it to a machine shop? When I check something like craigslist, many 4runners in the 90-95 have 250-300k on them, and that's living in the mountains where they do see some road salt, cold dry air, and 4wd use in the snow. I guess I kinda figure that if that many have that many miles, then my '92 with only 159k really doesn't need anything major except when something goes wrong. Until a few days ago that was only a starter and some rear window related things, but now I have a few more replacements after an exploding fan blade.

But mine did have the V6 engine rebuild campaign, with the PO buying most new parts to have it basically rebuilt. I'm not yet 100k from there.

But as far as reliability to drive it outside the city limits, it's never really worried me.

Just curious