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Old 03-17-2018, 09:41 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner View Post
There is no relay, and that is bad. (Back in those days, Toyota mechanical engineers were much better than electrical engineers. I hope they are equally good nowadays.)

Assuming yours is wired same as 1986 to 1988 22R-E's as in first picture... Proceed with test as shown on second picture and keep us posted.



Test for Horn Circuit:
Perform with everything connected as normal. This will test both positive side and ground/switch side of the system.
would you mind reposting the second image as it is no longer visible? i am currently trying to track down an issue with my horn.

The horn has not worked since i have owned it.

Fuse is good (hazards work, also checked visually)
12V direct to horn it works.
took steering wheel off and the pin is good. (plenty of pin left, visible contact)
the horn button also works (continuity test)
when i try to jump from the pin to ground i get nothing. So i know i have a power delivery issue to the pin.

Are there any other troubleshooting locations in the circuit? (connectors, relays, etc.)
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Old 03-18-2018, 02:43 AM #17
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Updated original post above:
Full How-to Fix Intermediate Horn on 1st Gen 4Runner/Pickup with Pictures

Quote:
Originally Posted by PlanetExpress View Post
...12V direct to horn it works.
Sorry, this is vague. You put 12V directly to horn and it works?

Please see above.
There will always be 12V at positive side (G-W / L-Y) of horn when all is normal.
There is always 12V at negative side (G-R) of horn when switch is released.
When G-R is shorted to ground, horn should work.
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Old 03-18-2018, 10:08 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner View Post
Updated original post above:
Full How-to Fix Intermediate Horn on 1st Gen 4Runner/Pickup with Pictures


Sorry, this is vague. You put 12V directly to horn and it works?

Please see above.
There will always be 12V at positive side (G-W / L-Y) of horn when all is normal.
There is always 12V at negative side (G-R) of horn when switch is released.
When G-R is shorted to ground, horn should work.
I ran 12v directly from the battery to the horn (the actual bit that makes the noise, not the circuit) to isolate it and make sure that it functions. It does.

I do not have power at the pin in the steering wheel. When the horn button is depressed i get something like 0.2 volts at the connector for the horn.

Are there other connectors in this circuit i can check for corrosion and wear? I don't want to tear my dash out looking for something that isn't there.
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Old 03-18-2018, 09:31 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlanetExpress View Post
I ran 12v directly from the battery to the horn ...and make sure that it functions. It does.
Still vague.

You mean as soon as you put 12V to the horn, it makes a sound? Without pressing the steering wheel button?
So when does the horn NOT work?

Help us help you. Put us right in front of your vehicle.

Do EXACTLY what I say on the post above, report back EXACTLY what you see, hear feel, smell (hopefully not smoke - LOL), and you may not have to tear apart the steering column parts.
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Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
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Old 03-19-2018, 12:00 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner View Post
Still vague.

You mean as soon as you put 12V to the horn, it makes a sound? Without pressing the steering wheel button?
So when does the horn NOT work?

Help us help you. Put us right in front of your vehicle.

Do EXACTLY what I say on the post above, report back EXACTLY what you see, hear feel, smell (hopefully not smoke - LOL), and you may not have to tear apart the steering column parts.
I walked to the front of the vehicle, removed my grill, unbolted and removed the horn. I ran 12V directly from the battery to the disconnected horn to make sure that it worked. It made a noise.

I then placed my multi-meter probes on the connector at the front of the vehicle that connects to the horn, I had my wife press the horn button in the cab while I measured the voltage across the connector. It read approximately 0.2 volts (which i'm not positive isn't an error).

I then removed the steering wheel to check the pin. It is in good condition and making contact with the ring on the steering wheel.

I then jumpered the pin to the steering shaft (ground). No noise.

Using my multi-meter, I measured between the pin and the steering shaft and got a reading of 0 volts, with a jumper and without a jumper.
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Old 03-19-2018, 02:09 PM #21
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Repeat: Do EXACTLY what I say on the post above, report back ...
ABSOLUTELY NO NEED TO TAKE ANYTHING APART. JUST VOLT DC SETTING ON THE MULTI-METER.. Yes one single setting on multi-meter and nothing else. (assistant may be needed).

Quote:
Originally Posted by PlanetExpress View Post
... I ran 12V directly from the battery to the disconnected horn to make sure that it worked. It made a noise.
So horn itself is good.

Quote:
...I had my wife press the horn button in the cab while I measured the voltage across the connector. It read approximately 0.2 volts
This does not tell us anything because you did not check if there is 12V to the positive and the negative side of the horn with horn connected as I suggested above.
0.2 volts is noise the DMM picks up.

Quote:
I then removed the steering wheel to check the pin. It is in good condition and making contact with the ring on the steering wheel.
How did you verify that it is making good contact? Did you use ohms?

Quote:
I then jumpered the pin to the steering shaft (ground). No noise.
If you do not have 12V at the horn, like I said to check in original link, you will not get any sound, no matter how good your switch, pin, steering column, ground are.

Quote:
Using my multi-meter, I measured between the pin and the steering shaft and got a reading of 0 volts, with a jumper and without a jumper.
This VOLTAGE check will only tell us something if you say whether you did this check with horn button pressed or not, and whether the horn was connected or not.
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 03-19-2018 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 03-19-2018, 02:14 PM #22
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ADMINS: Kindly Revise Title to say "INTERMITTTENT", instead of Intermediate :)

ADMINS: Kindly Revise Title to say "INTERMITTTENT", instead of Intermediate
To help facilitate future searches.
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Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
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Old 11-05-2018, 06:51 PM #23
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I have this issue now. How is that horn holding up with the casing?

Will it wear through the ring maybe? Is the ring a soft metal?
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Old 07-06-2020, 01:21 PM #24
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I don't have 12v power at the green/red wire to my horn. I do have 12v constant power to the other wire.

Checked the 15A fuse, which is good. There's no horn relay on my 89, so that's not it. Help please! Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-24-2020, 07:50 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ev13wt View Post
I have this issue now. How is that horn holding up with the casing?

Will it wear through the ring maybe? Is the ring a soft metal?
heh. missed your post from two years ago. but, my horn with 22 shell still works, 7 years later...
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Old 07-28-2020, 03:44 AM #26
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Quote:
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heh. missed your post from two years ago. but, my horn with 22 shell still works, 7 years later...
Sometimes it sounds like there's a kitten on my steering column when I turn so,I guess it's time to look in there. Might as well have the replacement contact on-hand to save time.
It would cost me more man-hours trying to find a 22-cal shell than it would to buy PN84312-20011, Plate Horn Contact so I did the latter from McGeorge Toyota. Heck, shipping cost more than the part but...OH WELL... (RIP, Peter Green)
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If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 07-28-2020 at 03:52 AM.
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Old 08-03-2020, 05:15 PM #27
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Testing Circuit From Contact Pin and upstream...

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If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
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