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Old 02-09-2014, 10:22 PM #16
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the outer door weatherstrip seals are a little tired, and gaps can be seen. i ordered a set from autoparts warehouse.

i tried installing them earlier this week, but they do not fit at all. many of the clip locations on the weatherstrip do not match the hole locations on the door, and the length above the window is too narrow to fit the channel in the door itself, so it wouldn't stay in place. also, once i attempted to install, the new seal is too long, meaning it fits a larger door opening than what i have in my '87.

kind of a letdown. i'm sure apw won't accept a return of the seal that i attempted to install, since all of the fasteners had to be broken off to remove the ill-(non)fitting seal. i didn't bother to attempt the other door.
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Old 02-19-2014, 10:13 PM #17
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from one of my jobs earlier this month.
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wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p2030303-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p2030304-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p2130022-jpg 
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:08 PM #18
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finally got around to making the rear wiper functional. it operated all along, it just wouldn't touch the glass - too much corrosion in the wiper pivot/spring mechanism/bushing.

so, i took the whole thing off, and sprayed it liberally w/WD40 while working the pivot up/down repeatedly (oh, and i removed the spring to make it easier to do this). eventually, it got loose. i then sprayed the bushing with a small amount of PB'laster and worked it in. reattached the spring, and and went back out to the 4runner, and put the wiper assembly back in place.

the moment of truth. put ignition switch to on, pressed the rear wiper button, and it worked, cleared some glass - and the washer works to boot. not perfect, but at least 75% of the wiper blade makes contact with the glass surface. much better than it waving in the air above the glass.

some "action" shots:
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wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p2210026-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p2210027-jpg 
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Last edited by wallytoo; 02-21-2014 at 04:36 PM. Reason: add photos
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Old 02-22-2014, 05:23 PM #19
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figured the valve clearances were due for checking/adjustment, as i've put 11K miles on since buying the runner, with no clear record of the last time they were adjusted/checked.

i must say, for all the glowing/fawning over the 22re, there are plenty of features that i find irritating. perhaps it's more the design of the engine bay than the engine. really shouldn't have to disconnect the coolant lines that feed the heater in order to easily remove the head cover (note, i didn't disconnect them, but it is a real PITA to get the cover off with them in the way). this is a potential mechanism to introduce dirt into the valvetrain, as whatever is still on the cover can be scraped off/dislodged while finagling the cover away from the heater hoses. stupid.

all the other hoses/connections were easy to remove or tuck out of the way. rotating the engine isn't particularly easy, either. the front skid is in the way, and prevents easy access to the crank pulley bolt for easy turning. instead, i used the power steering pulley bolt while pressing hard against the belt between the idler and crank pulley to get the engine to rotate to line up the timing marks.

once the marks were lined up, the adjustment itself is very simple and takes only a few minutes. then the laborious process of rotating the crank 360 to adjust the other four valve clearances.

at least the kit came with the head cover gasket, the four stud nut gaskets, and the two half-moons. visually inspected the timing chain and guides, which look to be in excellent condition.

i suppose the next time i'll be able to do it a little faster.

edit: added some pics of completed project. can see the new front half-moon, and the new gasket/bushings that go under the acorn nuts.
Attached Images
wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p2230016-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p2230017-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p2230018-jpg 
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Last edited by wallytoo; 02-23-2014 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 02-23-2014, 08:00 PM #20
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i didn't like the rear storage "box" on the passenger side. too deep, and stuff just sits at the bottom in any moisture that might get in the inner rear quarters. so i added a simple shelf to store some things that i prefer to keep dry or out of the way. it's a 1" thick pine board, trimmed to fit the space, with a brace and another trimmed piece of 1" wood at the forward end to prevent the stuff from disappearing inside the panel. the two screws in front of the hinge attach a "foot" to keep the shelf at the correct level. keeps the stuff clean and dry so far (about 5 months).

and, just because i noted it earlier in the thread, a pic of the dash crack. doesn't bother me for now.
Attached Images
wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p2230005-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p2230008-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p2230006-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p2230020-jpg 
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Last edited by wallytoo; 02-23-2014 at 08:05 PM.
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Old 03-01-2014, 07:29 PM #21
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had a click-no start today. first time that's happened with my 4runner. after about 15 key-turns, the starter finally engaged and it started right up.

i've already addressed the factory wiring flaw in the starting system as outlined and broken down by RAD4r. and, a few months ago, my wife's '97 corolla had a solenoid contact issue, which i fixed by replacing the worn contacts with new. in doing this, i discovered that my 4runner has the same starter series as the corolla, so when it didn't start today, i figured it was the solenoid contacts.

and i took pics of the process.

there it is, in all it's so close yet unnecessarily difficult to remove glory. requires 14mm sockets or wrenches to remove, along with extensions/swivels. i chose to remove the fender flaps to get a better view.

second pic shows the 27 year old starter on the bench. a little corroded on the outside, but not bad. i wire brushed the bellhousing contact areas, so they are shiny.

third pic shows the cover that needs to be removed to access the solenoid parts - the contacts and the plunger. the three bolts (w/philips) are 8mm. i squirted the bolts, along with the contact studs, with PB'laster. the cover bolts came out with no problem.

fourth pic shows the battery cable connection and the solenoid energizer wire.
Attached Images
wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010006-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010009-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010010-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010012-jpg 
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Last edited by wallytoo; 03-01-2014 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 03-01-2014, 07:43 PM #22
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first pic shows the solenoid plunger, which is under the 3-bolt cover. also visible is the rubber gasket under the cover.

second pic shows the corroded contact surface of the plunger. it is only slightly worn, but pitted. third pic shows the plunger that came from the corolla next to the 4r plunger.

fourth pic shows the cleaned contact surface of the plunger. i used a small file to clean it up.

fifth pic shows the solenoid contacts still installed to the housing. the contact at the top of the picture is the worn out one (the contact area was paper thin), while the lower one has minimal wear, and i didn't replace it.
Attached Images
wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010015-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010016-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010017-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010020-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010019-jpg 
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Old 03-01-2014, 07:53 PM #23
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first pic shows the removed contact. this stud is the one that connects to the battery cable directly. the rubber gasket and washer attach to the outside of the housing.

second pic shows a small gasket that seals below the washer, along with a larger square insulator that isolates the contact from the housing.

third pic shows the stud/contact/insulator/gasket assembly, and the wear on the contact is clearly visible. this worn area really is paper thin.

fourth pic shows the area worn on the contact.

fifth pic shows the new contact next to the old contact.
Attached Images
wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010022-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010024-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010025-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010028-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010029-jpg 
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Old 03-01-2014, 08:12 PM #24
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inside the housing, with the new contact installed. shows the slightly worn contact that wasn't replaced, too.

second pic shows the cleaned/filed plunger being installed, and the last pic shows the starter reassembled on the bench.

took it out and put it back on the bellhousing. tested it, and it worked without a click/no-start. done. reinstalling it revealed another poorly designed toyota feature, namely that the clutch slave cylinder bracket is attached to the lower starter bolt. this makes it very difficult to get the bolt back in, since it is a "blind" operation. wtf attach that bracket to the starter attachment bolt?

my amc/jeep starter is much simpler. two bolts. a single battery cable connection. done. nothing in the way to removing it.
Attached Images
wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010030-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010031-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3010032-jpg 
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Old 03-01-2014, 09:37 PM #25
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Thanks, Wally for sharing. I've never done contacts so it's good to clearly what's in there. Nice work on the storage, too
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:28 AM #26
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i figured i had no excuse not to record the process with photos and a brief write-up, especially having just done the same replacement on the corolla a few months ago. the biggest challenge with both is not internal - the contacts are very easy to replace. the hardest part is the removal and installation of the starter itself.

fwiw, there are kits that can be purchased that have 2 contacts and the plunger. i chose not to replace the plunger in the runner, but i did replace it in the corolla. now i have a spare that can be cleaned up, along with a single brand new contact, one old usable contact, and two scrap contacts.

the storage shelf was something i wanted. easier to keep the stuff accessible, and clean (and i can see what's in there).
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Old 03-02-2014, 04:18 PM #27
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I didnt see where you or if you found new door seals but the dealer sells them fairly cheap compared to the the window sash seals. I got the price on the sash seals or window channel I couldn't get the 60 dollar weather strip for the doors.
Ether way nice build and great tech.
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:07 PM #28
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i got the door weatherstrip seal from autoparts warehouse. they weren't the correct seals - too long, for a door larger than this 4runner.

i haven't had a chance to go to the dealer, although that will be my next try. they've had good prices on some of the other seals/rubber parts, as well as shackle parts; when i get them, i'll post the results.
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:56 PM #29
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i broke the parking brake cable (the front cable) where it connects to the rear cable assembly, just in front of the gas tank. finally got around to removing it today.

the FSM is useless - no description of this process at all, and the design pretty much sucks.

after doing it the hard way, i've figured out the correct way to remove the front cable. it would have been very helpful if the FSM had this information in it.

here goes:

from the engine bay, pull the speedo cable from the clip that attaches to the pulley housing through which the parking brake cable passes. then, remove the two 12mm nuts to remove the pulley housing from the firewall (although the housing will still be "trapped" by the cable).

from inside, pull the parking brake lever slightly out, but not very much. this should expose the backside of a pin through a hole in the firewall-to-dash brake assembly (this is the pin that depresses/releases the "brake warning light switch") [first pic shows the pin, second pic shows the hole in the assembly]

the cable ferrule will not be able to be removed until the pin is removed so that the parking brake lever can be pushed fully inward [third pic]

drive the pin out the opposite side (drive it from the hole, not out the hole).
[fourth & fifth pics]

once the pin is out, fully push in the parking brake lever. this will extend the assembly into the engine compartment enough to allow the cable to be removed from its "slot". without removing the pin, the assembly can not be pushed far enough out through the firewall in the engine bay to get the cable out of its slot, and nothing else will work. [last pic shows fully extended lever through firewall, with ferrule capture exposed.

from here, the rest is easy. gently pry away the retaining tabs that secure both the parking and speedo cables to the underside of the body (one is located above the transmission, near the back of the engine, the other is located just in front of the crossmember through which the parking cable is clipped. there is also a cable clamp that attaches to the parking cable, and it is secured directly to the body with a 12mm bolt.

remove the other clip from the pulley housing, then pull the small cotter pin from the rear of the cable, and the entire parking brake cable should be removeable at this time.


from the pics, you can see that i removed the p-brake assembly from under the dash. that isn't necessary, as the pin can be driven, with difficulty, with the lever installed. you still have to remove the pulley housing from the engine bay side of the firewall, but you do not have to pull apart the lower dash covers and remove the lever. driving the pin from under the dash will be difficult, as there isn't much space to work in, and the hole to drive the pin out faces the middle dash/heater/etc. all in all, this is a piss-poor design and is totally unnecessary.

another edit: you can also see the various parts associated with this in the bin, including the pulley and pulley housing, and the speedo cable clip that attaches to the pulley housing.
Attached Images
wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3310009-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3310005-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3310010-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3310007-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3310008-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p3310011-jpg 
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Last edited by wallytoo; 03-31-2014 at 08:40 AM. Reason: add photos
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Old 04-08-2014, 04:06 PM #30
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where did you source the new contacts for the starter?

thanks for the detailed write ups....very helpful. I know how tedious it is to do it.
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