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Old 04-08-2014, 08:27 PM #31
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i got them either from iowamotorparts.com or discount starter and alternator in georgia.

truth is, the ones i used in my 4runner were supposed to be for my wife's corolla, but they weren't correct (turns out a few made that year had a different style), but, upon doing some searching, i discovered that they'd fit my 4runner. so, i ordered a correct set for the corolla, and kept the incorrect set anyway, since they'd work - and, two months later, i needed them.

i just don't remember which place i ordered which set from. one (or both) can be found on ebay, too.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:55 PM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallytoo View Post
i got them either from iowamotorparts.com or discount starter and alternator in georgia.

truth is, the ones i used in my 4runner were supposed to be for my wife's corolla, but they weren't correct (turns out a few made that year had a different style), but, upon doing some searching, i discovered that they'd fit my 4runner. so, i ordered a correct set for the corolla, and kept the incorrect set anyway, since they'd work - and, two months later, i needed them.

i just don't remember which place i ordered which set from. one (or both) can be found on ebay, too.

cool, I'll look around.

When you had the fuel diaphram issue, can you describe the hard start issue? I'm having some problems that are getting worse and appear to be running rich as well (by the exhaust smell) and that could be my issue as well.
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:17 PM #33
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pretty much as described.

took from 4 to 8 seconds of cranking to get the engine to fire, and when it finally caught, it would stumble and expel a cloud of dark smoke (unburned fuel) from the tailpipe. i'm used to my vehicles starting pretty much instantly, even 30 year old ones, so i wanted to solve it. it should (and does) start with less than 1 second of cranking.
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Old 05-23-2014, 04:35 PM #34
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the 4runner had an exhaust leak at both flanges of the catalytic converter. the flanges on the head pipe and intermediate pipe weren't great, and the cat was in poor condition. i ended up purchasing an entire new exhaust system, in stock form, from mostly rock auto, but also toyota overstocks. so, brand new front (head) pipe, new cat, and new muffler/tailpipe assembly (i went with a single-piece unit, rather than getting a new intermediate pipe, muffler, and tailpipe), new cat hanger (that was hard to find), new tailpipe hanger, and new gaskets (both for the cat and for the head pipe at the manifold).

the entire project took only 4 hours, which include removal of the old system, and installation of the new one. i used a grinder to sever the pipe between the cat and muffler, which made getting everything out much easier.

the nice thing about the stock pieces was that everything fit just right. i didn't have to do any bending, stretching, cutting, etc.

and now i've got a leak-free exhaust that is quiet.

edit: added photos - old cat, new cat
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wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p4030007-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p5240004-jpg 
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Last edited by wallytoo; 05-24-2014 at 06:09 PM.
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Old 05-23-2014, 05:33 PM #35
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^^^^I need to do that too. What cat did you get and how much did it cost? Were the exhaust parts Borla or Walker? Nice 4Runner BTW. It's in excellent shape for California much less NH.
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Old 05-23-2014, 06:27 PM #36
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parts from rock auto:
bosal 885867 front pipe $71.79
davico 16075 cat $84.79
walker 35199 hanger/insulator $5.70
bosal 284873 muffler combination $90.79
bosal 256061 pipe flange gasket/seal $2.82 (2)
bosal 255031 hanger/insulator $3.14

parts from toyota overstock (oem)
17503-35130 bracket sub-assembly $25.62
18495-35011 retainer $11.64
90105-10388 bolts/washer base $1.04 (4)

that's it. total $303.27 plus shipping (about $110.00) less than the going rate for a catalytic converter. you can eliminate the 18495-35011 retainer, don't need it, though i used it (instead of nuts). i also used nuts from my "parts jar" to bolt the cat in using the bolts/washer base, and to attach the front (bellhousing) hanger and tailpipe hanger.
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wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p5240005-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p5240006-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p5240007-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p5240008-jpg 
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Last edited by wallytoo; 05-24-2014 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 05-24-2014, 02:58 AM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallytoo View Post
parts from rock auto:
bosal 885867 front pipe $71.79
davico 16075 cat $84.79
walker 35199 hanger/insulator $5.70
bosal 284873 muffler combination $90.79
bosal 256061 pipe flange gasket/seal $2.82 (2)
bosal 255031 hanger/insulator $3.14

parts from toyota overstock (oem)
17503-35130 bracket sub-assembly $25.62
18495-35011 retainer $11.64
90105-10388 bolts/washer base $1.04 (4)

that's it. total $303.27 plus shipping (about $110.00) less than the going rate for a catalytic converter. you can eliminate the 18495-35011 retainer, don't need it, though i used it (instead of nuts). i also used nuts from my "parts jar" to bolt the cat in using the bolts/washer base, and to attach the front (bellhousing) hanger and tailpipe hanger.
Wow thanks. By "Borla" of course I meant "Bosal." I bet the nuts are the same size I have for the oxygen sensor. Can't remember the size off hand. 8 x 1.25 or something like that.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:52 PM #38
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been awhile since i updated the thread, although i haven't done much to the 4runner in that time (it has been performing very well, with just over 23K miles on it in 14 months).

i replaced the heater blower motor resistor. the original had been gradually failing - lost low speed, eventually lost 2nd, and finally lost 3rd, leaving only high. it was very simple to do. the resistor is up under the dash, passenger footwell side. it can be replaced without removing the glovebox assembly, but it is easier to see what's going on by taking the g-b out. unplug the connector to the resistor, remove the single screw, and it comes out. insert the new one. done.



got tired of the grime/oil all over the alternator, which probably contributed to belt squeal/slippage. i replaced the distributor o-ring (direct from toyota), which took all of 7 minutes from start to finish. this should eliminate any oil leakage from the shaft. i believe i have a slight P/S system leak from the various hose/fitting connections at the pump which are also adding to the slimy alternator, but i'll address that in the future. replacing the 0-ring seems to have reduced the amount of oil weeping down the front of the block.

still getting alt squeal, and the adjustment to belt tension was maxed. ordered all three drive belts (P/S, Alt, A/C) to replace them. the FSM does have the correct procedure for removing a drive belt, but not for all three belts, a continued deficiency by the producers of the manual - too many assumptions. start with the P/S belt. loosen the pulley nut, not the tensioner nut. once the pulley nut is loose (19 mm), then loosen the tensioner nut (12 mm) all the way to fully retract the idler assembly. remove the belt. it can be coaxed over the fan assembly without too much difficulty. oh, and before doing any of that, remove the lower engine plate/shroud, if your truck has it, which makes all of this easier, since you need access to the top and bottom of the engine bay. next, loosen the A/C idler pulley nut (14 mm), and then loosen the tensioner nut (14 mm), and fully retract the idler. the belt comes off without having to go over the fan. finally, loosen the lower pivot on the alternator (14mm), and then loosen the upper adjustment nut on the alternator (12 mm). push the alternator toward the block, and the belt should slip off. this belt too can be removed by slipping it over the fan, with the shroud in place.

reassembly is the opposite, starting with the Alt belt, then the A/C, then the P/S. i didn't tighten anything until all three belts were in place correctly.

took it for a drive, and instead of getting mod/heavy squeal at 2500 to 3100 rpm, i got up to 3700 with no squeal. i'll monitor it for a bit and check belt tension in a day or two.
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Old 08-22-2014, 08:16 AM #39
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another project that i did a few months ago, and forgot about until a current thread was posted. the spare tire hanger/lowering mechanism didn't function. so, i removed it to try to get it operational. there are three bolts that attach the body of the hanger to the "spare tire frame sub-structure". these may or may not be heavily rusted. i was able to remove all three without breaking them, using torches and lube.

the inside of the hanger was full of dirt, rust, and crud. the moving pieces were solidly fused together. i disassembled the entire mechanism, and sandblasted everthing. to get it apart, gently pry the tabs open on the cover (the piece with the cross through which the chain passes) and lift off. pry off the c-clip at the opposited side of the slotted pin, and the rest of the "innards" should be free to come out.
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wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040028-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040029-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040031-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040032-jpg 
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Last edited by wallytoo; 08-22-2014 at 08:29 AM.
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Old 08-22-2014, 08:36 AM #40
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the mechanism is pretty basic, and actually fairly stout. it fails because dirt, roadwash, salt, and rust can freeze the parts together. with regular lubing, from a clean start, it should probably work for quite a long time.
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wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040033-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040034-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040035-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040037-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040038-jpg 
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Old 08-22-2014, 08:45 AM #41
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i tested and retested the operation several times, to make sure things would function properly, and that i could assemble them in the correct way.
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wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040039-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040041-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040040-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040042-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040043-jpg 
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Old 08-22-2014, 08:53 AM #42
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painted the parts. the last two pics in this post are of the non-rotating gear piece (it rotates partially, back and forth, to allow the chain to be raised or lowered). this is the piece to which one end of the small spring attaches. the other end attaches to the cover of the mechansim.
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wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040044-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040045-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040046-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7040047-jpg 
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Old 08-22-2014, 08:58 AM #43
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painted, lubed, assembled, and installed.
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wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7050048-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7050049-jpg  wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread-p7050050-jpg 
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Old 10-16-2014, 05:57 PM #44
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added an upgraded "stock" radio/tape/cd player. not any great thing, but better than the tape/radio unit that was in it, which had poor radio reception/tuning and only emitted sound out of one side when playing tapes.

double din size, from 87 to late 90s, with the 6-pin/10-pin connector. radio works much better (as far as reception), tape player plays in stereo, and cd works. internal lighting of the unit comes on for a split-second when the parking/head lights are switched on, but immediately go out. still, better than listening to mono tapes and poor radio.

fit perfectly, and no adapters needed. apparently, i could run an ipod through it, as there's another 12-pin plug in the back that can be easily used with an adapter.
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Old 12-11-2014, 07:22 PM #45
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after a nice long spell of easy starting and running well, my 22re began acting difficult to start a few weeks ago, with symptoms that seemed to be indicating flooding/too rich.

wasn't a problem overnight, but was an issue if attempting to start again after running, and shutting off for at least a minute. cold or hot engine made no difference.

cracked the cold start line after it sat overnight - no pressure. checked for fuel in the pressure regulator vacuum line, but it was dry. pulled the CSI, but it wasn't leaking, and it worked fine, too. i found no other leaks anywhere, and the fuel pump worked fine (could spray a bunch of fuel with the jumper and the CSI line cracked).

decided it was likely to be the injectors. drove it one more day (had to), and on my ride home, the engine ran horribly, bucking and rough. clearly not running properly, as if on one or two cylinders instead of four.

pulled off the plenum and everything else, removed the fuel rail with the injectors, and sent the injectors off to WitchHunter Performance in WA. I put them in the mail on wednesday, and just got them back today (very quick turnaround - a week plus a day). the report from WHP indicated that all four injectors were not functioning, all leaked, and all had the same resistance readings. no spray patterns, no static or pulsed flow (since none were working).

after cleaning/servicing, all four passed the leak test, have good spray pattern, and have flow rates within 3% of each other. all new gaskets, o-rings, tips, and they are clean.

i've got most of it reinstalled and ready to go, just need to tighten the spark plugs and also check for fuel leaks with the pump on.



i'm amazed it ran at all with the injectors as bad as they were.

update: got the plugs reinstalled, and used new copper gaskets for the fuel rail inlet/pulse damper (it was leaking after putting it back together - no leaks now).

fired up nicely, did not run horribly. ran as smoothly as it did for most of the summer and fall. overall, the replacement of the injectors was a relatively simple task, and wasn't too time-consuming. methodical removal and then installation, making sure wires and vacuum lines are routed correctly and plugged in is key. no leftover parts. i missed a single vacuum line connection when starting it up the first time (from the 4wd VSV to the plenum). i purchased a second set of copper washers for the fuel inlet/damper, in case i have to pull it again. a little bit of driving needed to see if any noticeable difference in "performance". up until the recent hard start, and very last bucking, it had been running very smoothly.
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Last edited by wallytoo; 12-14-2014 at 09:39 AM. Reason: update
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