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Old 09-10-2020, 11:21 AM #91
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most excellent! headgasket in red '87 is leaking. however, it is an external leak, instead of an internal leak. either way, time to replace it. ordered a bunch of geniune parts from McGeorge Toyota to the tune of about $117.xx delivered. now to take things apart to remove the leaking HG. yay.
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Old 09-11-2020, 09:04 AM #92
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32s look great on there!

Bummer on the head gasket!
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Old 09-24-2020, 09:45 AM #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallytoo View Post
most excellent! headgasket in red '87 is leaking. however, it is an external leak, instead of an internal leak. either way, time to replace it. ordered a bunch of geniune parts from McGeorge Toyota to the tune of about $117.xx delivered. now to take things apart to remove the leaking HG. yay.
Have you started the disassembly yet? Any photos?
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Old 09-24-2020, 07:58 PM #94
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oh, yeah. i’ve started. and finished. no photos, since i’m terrible about taking them in the middle of projects,

i ended up doing the timing chain, too. the drivers guide had a small piece missing around the upper bolt, so i just replaced everything (i had a complete internal timing kit on hand anyway). new guides, tensioner, cam sprocket, crank sprocket, and gaskets, along with a toyota head gasket and intake gasket.

head gasket looked to be original. not bad, 34 years and a tic under 200k miles (196k).
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Old 10-17-2020, 08:50 AM #95
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well, now i have some photos. got to do it all over again, as the timing chain broke after about 2 weeks (my fault - i didn't torque the guide bolts, and they were all loose. one backed out and dropped down between the chain and the crank sprocket, which broke the chain). so, replaced the timing set with another OSK set from yotashop, and another head gasket from mcgeorge toyota.

the good news? the whole process went faster, because i had just done it two weeks prior, and thus knew exactly what to remove, and what only needed to be loosened, etc, ie, i didn't remove the fuel damper, because i could set the lower plenum assembly to the side enough to clear the head and intake studs.

i made damn sure to torque all of the guide bolts this time. and, like last time, once everything was reassembled, it started instantly. no leaks, timing was perfect.

cover removed, along with distributor, cam gear, and timing sprocket (and broken chain)


lower plenum disconnected and set aside enough to clear the head


exhaust manifold disconnected only at head


head and timing cover removed


head bolts
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Old 10-17-2020, 11:16 AM #96
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Did you have corrosion on the heads? I've had a couple 22R, and the first head gasket replacement I also had to weld the water passages because they had corroded to the point they were larger and would evidently grow past the seal area. I now replace my coolant more often.
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Old 10-17-2020, 06:26 PM #97
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Quote:
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Did you have corrosion on the heads? I've had a couple 22R, and the first head gasket replacement I also had to weld the water passages because they had corroded to the point they were larger and would evidently grow past the seal area. I now replace my coolant more often.
neither the head nor the block had any notable corrosion of the coolant passages.
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Old 11-12-2020, 02:38 PM #98
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I'm glad to have discovered your thread. i'm a new, 1986 4Runner owner and striving to keep as original and well running as possible.
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Old 02-13-2021, 08:08 PM #99
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bought a marlin crawler w56b 5-speed back in may 2020 to replace the original in my 2nd '87 4runner. finally got around to installing it yesterday!

the install went very well, and the fact that the 4r came from north carolina didn't hurt, as the bolts etc came loose without breaking stuff. while in there, replaced the rear main seal and used a sleeve (i did use a new seal when i installed the rebuilt engine, but the seal still leaked).

minor grrrr, the marlin crawler transmission was supposed to come with a gasket for the transmission/transfer case interface, but when i unpacked the transmission, no gasket. other than that, it looks excellent, and the test drive confirms - no more "rocks in the transmission", and no longer hit the transfer case lever when shifting into reverse. very happy so far.

pulling the pilot bearing while replacing the rear main seal and adding a sleeve:






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Old 02-16-2021, 09:23 AM #100
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When I separated my R150F trans/t-case there was no gasket in-between...


Looks nice!!
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90% of the build threads in the 5th Gen section consist of Fuel Wheels, Plastidip, Duratracs and window tint.
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1997 4Runner "Becky" - Camping Rig - 3.4 Auto (for now), Armored, Cable E-Locked, Coastal Bumper, Sleeper Deck, 255/80r17 AT3Ws (185k+ Miles)
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Old 02-17-2021, 07:51 AM #101
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the original w56b that i pulled from it had a gasket, and marlin indicates one is included when purchasing a transmission from them.

we used rtv.
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Old 03-07-2021, 04:12 PM #102
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so far, so good with the marlin transmission.

on the other ‘87, swapped in some reman’ed calipers, as at least one of the four pistons on each of the originals was frozen. after the swap, i couldn’t get the pedal to feel right. bled the system completely several times to no avail. when my wife got home, i had her pump the pedal while i checked the system; bingo, leaking master cylinder. checked my ‘88 parts runner, and the master cylinders matched. swapped that in today, and now have excellent braking and a good pedal. i might swap in the larger booster from the v6 ‘88, too, but for now red ‘87 is good to go.

odd that in replacing the calipers, the master then failed, as prior to swapping the calipers, i had good pedal and pretty decent brakes, even with the frozen pistons.
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Old 06-13-2021, 01:44 PM #103
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seemed it was about time to find out why the rear speakers didn't work on '87 #2. PO swapped in an aftermarket cd player, and the front speakers work, along with all the other functions of the player/deck. first checked to see that there were speakers in the back, and there are. stock, in the stock rear location.

the install was something of a hack, although at least the PO didn't hack any (that i can find) of the original stereo wiring harness; just hacked the adapter harness. when using jumpers to the rear speakers from the deck wiring, no sound from the back. did a little google, and also remembered that the rear stock speakers have a small amp mounted at each of them.

much of the writeups are erroneous with regard to installing an aftermarket player into the system using the original front & rear speakers. on most new heads, there is a wire labeled "remote power", and most descriptions describe this as for an antenna. it isn't. it's used to power the remote amps, in this case the ones for the rear speakers. using the factory wiring from the amps, i was able to connect to the labeled "remote" wire lead, and.....the rear speakers work. so, after 3 years, i have music in the back, too.

the speakers in '87 #1 have always worked, as it came with the original deck, and i swapped in a later cd/deck from a similar vintage toyota. the deck had identical wiring plugs, etc, so everything worked.
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Old 06-14-2021, 11:05 AM #104
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the trip odometer on '87 #2 has very faded/flaking numbers; been wanting to fix that since i got it. decided that it might be simple enough to swap the trip meter with the one in my spare-parts '88.

pretty simple, as it turns out. first, need to remove the 5 screws that hold the dash section that covers the gauges, then lift out the dash cover (and unplug any switch wiring - in my case - both cruise and clutch cancel switches). next, remove the 4 screws that hold the speedo/tach/gauge console. gently pull the console outward, then unplug the 3 wiring connectors. once those are unplugged, reach down and release the speedo cable clip from the back of the console. now the entire unit should pop out.

to disassemble the console, first remove the two metal tabs with single screws that are used as attachment points for the dash hood. then, gently push in the 8 tabs (4 top 4 bottom) that hold the "window" to the gauge cluster, and remove the window.

there are two speedo mount screws to remove, and two elecrical contact screws to remove for the speedo unit. once they are out, the unit will easily come out of the pod.

if you haven't already done so, unscrew the trip meter reset knob and remove it. the trip odometer is held to the speedo unit with two small screws on either side of it. the unit pulls outward gently, and now it is free. i swapped in the "clearer, less flaked" trip meter from my spare, and then installed everything. i even reset the trip meter to read the 082.9 miles that were on the swapped out unit (for my gas mileage records). took about 40 minutes to pull both units, and install back in #2 (i didn't put the speedo/gauge assembly back in the parts runner).
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Old 06-16-2021, 04:38 AM #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallytoo View Post
seemed it was about time to find out why the rear speakers didn't work on '87 #2. PO swapped in an aftermarket cd player, and the front speakers work, along with all the other functions of the player/deck. first checked to see that there were speakers in the back, and there are. stock, in the stock rear location.

the install was something of a hack, although at least the PO didn't hack any (that i can find) of the original stereo wiring harness; just hacked the adapter harness. when using jumpers to the rear speakers from the deck wiring, no sound from the back. did a little google, and also remembered that the rear stock speakers have a small amp mounted at each of them.

much of the writeups are erroneous with regard to installing an aftermarket player into the system using the original front & rear speakers. on most new heads, there is a wire labeled "remote power", and most descriptions describe this as for an antenna. it isn't. it's used to power the remote amps, in this case the ones for the rear speakers. using the factory wiring from the amps, i was able to connect to the labeled "remote" wire lead, and.....the rear speakers work. so, after 3 years, i have music in the back, too.

the speakers in '87 #1 have always worked, as it came with the original deck, and i swapped in a later cd/deck from a similar vintage toyota. the deck had identical wiring plugs, etc, so everything worked.
Do you have pics of this? I'd like to see the rear speaker brakets

My 88 4Rs don't have rear speakers, my idea is to install the front speakers from the spare truck to the other one, if that is possible.
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