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Old 05-20-2014, 03:45 PM #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KidVermicious View Post
Tell me more about this, because I'd like to set up a dual battery system while my engine bay is torn apart and I'm dead broke. Just a 600 amp solenoid?
honesty, I cant remember exactly which solenoid I used. I think I just went down to NAPA and asked for a high amp, continuous duty 12v solenoid.

it looks something like this.



i just connected the 2 batteries with standard battery cables, positive from each side of the solenoid. i ran my trigger wire from the SECOND battery source. that way, if I leave something on and the main battery dies, i'll be able to switch it.

initially, i had the trigger from the main battery, but then in the situation above(it has happened several times) i wasn't able to switch it, there was nothing to power the noid.
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:55 PM #77
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Cool. So using your method, the batteries don't charge at the same time, you just have the system using one battery or the other depending on the switch position?

I could live with that.
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Old 05-20-2014, 04:00 PM #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KidVermicious View Post
Cool. So using your method, the batteries don't charge at the same time, you just have the system using one battery or the other depending on the switch position?

I could live with that.
yes. its either OFF, in which im only charging, and running off the main battery. or its ON, where im charging and running off both batteries.

like I said, its a very simple, non fancy system. but it has worked very well over the years.

when I head out on the trail, I usually switch it on for an hour or so, to make sure the 2nd battery is topped off, in case I need to do some heavy winching.

since having the duals, there is a pretty significant difference when winching with 1, or both batteries.
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Old 05-22-2014, 04:24 PM #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada View Post
yes. its either OFF, in which im only charging, and running off the main battery. or its ON, where im charging and running off both batteries.

like I said, its a very simple, non fancy system. but it has worked very well over the years.

when I head out on the trail, I usually switch it on for an hour or so, to make sure the 2nd battery is topped off, in case I need to do some heavy winching.

since having the duals, there is a pretty significant difference when winching with 1, or both batteries.
I did pretty much the same thing. This is the solenoid I used. Bought off amazon.

PAC PAC-200 200-Amp Relay Battery Isolator

The I added 2ea 200amp fuses inline on the + near both batteries and jumpered my switch wire into the fuse box under the hood, no toggle.
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:20 PM #80
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A rough wire diagram? Wiring is not my strong point. I can do it if I have a diagram to fallow I've been thinking about doing this exactly
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:10 PM #81
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Quote:
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A rough wire diagram? Wiring is not my strong point. I can do it if I have a diagram to fallow I've been thinking about doing this exactly
Its been many years, im not sure I remember exactly how I did it. but its pretty simple. wiring is also not my thing..


from the main battery to the dead post.
from the second battery to the switched post. using heavy gauge battery cables or the like.

then you need a trigger wire. I just ran a small wire from the same large post that the second battery connects to. this wire is what powers the solenoid, and allows it to switch. then I ran another wire to the switch post, to a toggle switch in the cab.

going off memory, I think that's how I have it set up.
excuse my mspaint skills....





i cant remember if i have a fuse between the noid and the toggle, but that's probably a good idea to do.
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Last edited by nevada; 05-27-2014 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:02 PM #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada View Post
I been many years, im not sure I remember exactly how I did it. but its pretty simple. wiring is also not my thing..


from the main battery to the dead post.
from the second battery to the switched post. using heavy gauge battery cables or the like.

then you need a trigger wire. I just ran a small wire from the same large post that the second battery connects to. this wire is what powers the solenoid, and allows it to switch. then I ran another wire to the switch post, to a toggle switch in the cab.

going off memory, I think that's how I have it set up.
excuses my mspaint skills....





i cant remember if i have a fuse between the noid and the toggle, but that's probably a good idea to do.
Awesome thanks Nevada! I may enroll my boss in this. 30+ years in the auto industry should help in this
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:04 PM #83
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If you wanted to get fancy with it, with a couple diodes you could run a wire from each battery so no matter which battery is dead you could switch it on.
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:12 PM #84
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If you wanted to get fancy with it, with a couple diodes you could run a wire from each battery so no matter which battery is dead you could switch it on.
I actually considered doing that.
but as it is now, the only way I can kill the second battery is if I leave the dual battery switch turned on. in which case, the diode wouldn't help me...
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:12 PM #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada View Post
Its been many years, im not sure I remember exactly how I did it. but its pretty simple. wiring is also not my thing..


from the main battery to the dead post.
from the second battery to the switched post. using heavy gauge battery cables or the like.

then you need a trigger wire. I just ran a small wire from the same large post that the second battery connects to. this wire is what powers the solenoid, and allows it to switch. then I ran another wire to the switch post, to a toggle switch in the cab.

going off memory, I think that's how I have it set up.
excuse my mspaint skills....





i cant remember if i have a fuse between the noid and the toggle, but that's probably a good idea to do.
Excuse my retardery, but what's the fused jumper wire for? Wouldn't you get your voltage to trigger the solenoid through the toggle switch in the cab?
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:12 PM #86
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Awesome thanks Nevada! I may enroll my boss in this. 30+ years in the auto industry should help in this
no problem man. it shouldn't be too difficult to do....I figured it out lol
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:27 PM #87
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Excuse my retardery, but what's the fused jumper wire for? Wouldn't you get your voltage to trigger the solenoid through the toggle switch in the cab?
maybe with a 3 pole noid? I think mine is 4.
I just know that I had run 12v to that post.
its very possible that I used the wrong solenoid....I just know that it works, and has been working configured as is for 5 years or so..

I also don't know that it needs to be fused, I just had a wire with an inline fuse handy so I used it.
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:34 PM #88
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maybe my toggle switch grounds the solenoid?

honestly I have no idea. its been a long ass time. I could go out and trace the wires if you really needed it.
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:43 PM #89
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maybe my toggle switch grounds the solenoid?
Ok, I'd buy that. I'm no 12v expert, but that would make your diagram make more sense.
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Old 06-27-2014, 01:04 PM #90
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has anyone swapped in a Tacoma/tundra rear?

im seriously considering running a 96+ Tacoma 60" WMS rear.
Im building a 64" WMS Dana 60 for the front. I was originally going to use the matching dana 70 for the rear(I already have it) but I don't think its going to work out. too costly to get narrowed/geared/locked etc..

I was thinking of going to a Tacoma rear, with 2" wheel spacers to match the front.


just look at this thing. 1 piece bearing cap! BEEFY!





it is still only an 8" ring gear, but as long as its as strong as the standard 8" it should be fine. I see no reason why it wouldn't be, that bearing cap alone has to make it stronger, much less deflection throughout. the only thing ive read is the axles are a bit weak, but those are easily upgraded.
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1985 4runner sr5: 22RE/5spd-6" pro-comp suspension-37 BFG at's-5.29 gears-Badlands Basher bumper-8.5k RR winch.
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