04-07-2014, 08:34 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Dothan, AL
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Junior Member
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2wd front wheel bearings
Hey all. If anyone could give me any insight on changing the front wheel bearings and the tie rod ends, it would greatly appreciated. I've searched and searched this forum and can't find anything relatively helpful for a 2 wheel drive. I know how to change wheel bearings but in case there's a little trick, or tip, something I've missed. I'd like to know. Thanks!
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Bone stock / 1995 T4R SR5 2WD 3.0 / 31x10.50 Cooper Discoverer AT3's / Daily Driver/Cruiser - Dothan, AL
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04-07-2014, 10:07 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Bend, or
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95T4R2WD
Hey all. If anyone could give me any insight on changing the front wheel bearings and the tie rod ends, it would greatly appreciated. I've searched and searched this forum and can't find anything relatively helpful for a 2 wheel drive. I know how to change wheel bearings but in case there's a little trick, or tip, something I've missed. I'd like to know. Thanks!
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You can't find anything because there are about 2 members on here with 2wd 2nd gens. For tie rod ends just count how many turn it takes to come out and put the new ones in that much
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04-08-2014, 09:04 AM
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#3
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Join Date: May 2011
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Counting threads only works if they are the exact same tierod, different brands will have different number of thread/shank length. You can align it in the drive way with a tape measure (Google, driveway alignment). But it probably best to have a shop do it.
IIRC, 2wd and 4wd runners are the same, just one does not have a front diff/cvs.
A thin walled 54mm socket makes a huge help with removing the nuts on the wheel bearings. You can get one from Trail-gear for about $12
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04-09-2014, 12:14 AM
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#4
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Thanks! So I ordered both both sides inner/outter bearings and got my hub apart today, found out I had the wrong bearings. My old ones seemed to check out ok so I just repacked them and put it all back together. Took about 20 minutes. I didn't think it would be that easy. I'm gonna replace both sides inner/outter tie rod ends tomorrow. I'm debating on whether or not I need a new pitman and idler arm.. They both have play.. But it's hard to tell what has play and what doesn't..
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04-09-2014, 12:16 AM
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#5
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And I'm just going to measure total length of inner and outter tie rod assembly, and go from there. Seems like it's a good idea. Lol
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Bone stock / 1995 T4R SR5 2WD 3.0 / 31x10.50 Cooper Discoverer AT3's / Daily Driver/Cruiser - Dothan, AL
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04-09-2014, 12:56 AM
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#6
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If they both have play, they both need replaced. Otherwise your alignment wont last.
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04-09-2014, 07:48 AM
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#7
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I'm gonna have someone move the wheel today while I've got it jacked up to see. I really don't wanna change that pitman arm but if need be, I can do it.
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04-09-2014, 12:18 PM
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#8
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So I'm replacing everything but my drag link tonight. Wish me luck! Getting alignment done on Friday.
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Bone stock / 1995 T4R SR5 2WD 3.0 / 31x10.50 Cooper Discoverer AT3's / Daily Driver/Cruiser - Dothan, AL
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04-09-2014, 12:28 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95T4R2WD
So I'm replacing everything but my drag link tonight. Wish me luck! Getting alignment done on Friday.
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I haven't worked on a 2wd yet, but if they are anything like the 4wd, good luck getting the pitman arm off the box. they are REALLY stuck on there.
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04-10-2014, 12:10 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
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Yeah.. Couldn't get the pitman off. So I just left it. It didn't need replacing anyways.. Got the rest of done in 3 hours.. First time doing any of that. I feel accomplished to say the least. Lol next thing I'm going to tackle is the ball joints.
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Bone stock / 1995 T4R SR5 2WD 3.0 / 31x10.50 Cooper Discoverer AT3's / Daily Driver/Cruiser - Dothan, AL
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04-10-2014, 12:36 PM
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#11
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Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95T4R2WD
Yeah.. Couldn't get the pitman off. So I just left it. It didn't need replacing anyways.. Got the rest of done in 3 hours.. First time doing any of that. I feel accomplished to say the least. Lol next thing I'm going to tackle is the ball joints.
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I have busted a couple of pullers in the past. I dont even bother to use them anymore. Take a hammer in each hand and time your swing to hit the pitman arm right on the fat part that is holding the shaft. When you time it right and hit it with both hammers at exactly the same time: the pitman arm just falls right off. You don't have to swing the hammers all that hard either, timing is more important than speed to ripple the metal enough to shake it loose.
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