06-03-2014, 07:35 AM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SV_Dude
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Yes, everything is new. egr valve & temp sensor as well.
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06-03-2014, 07:44 AM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SV_Dude
I am not 100% sure what all you have done for trouble shooting. For starters, I would route your vacuum lines exactly as your picture above shows regardless of what it looks like now.
Here's the vacuum line diagram as per the FSM:
http://web.archive.org/web/201008061...n/layoutan.pdf
Also, here is a link to the FSM index:
http://web.archive.org/web/200807310...es/repair.html
Another link to the Code 71 issue that the ECU is throwing. It shows the code and the possible causes of what could give that code:
http://web.archive.org/web/200911221...e/diagnosi.pdf
And lastly, the troubleshooting steps to troubleshoot all of the egr related emissions parts that are related to that code:
http://web.archive.org/web/201008061...n/exhaustg.pdf
Like I said, I don't know what you did for troubleshooting. I'm not a fan of buying parts for guess work so hopefully all of those parts you replaced were in fact bad... but since you replaced that long list of expensive parts I can only assume that they were not tested but replaced out of blind hope of fixing the problem. Go through the last link and test all components and determine where your problem lies using the steps above. Save the second link since troubleshooting per the FSM can save you a LOT of money.
If all parts test okay then you need to look further into the wiring harness or ECU. Using the second link, find the wiring diagram and start chasing your wire harness to make sure your wires are in good shape and your grounds are good.
Let us know what you find. Good luck!
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Thanks for the help! I'll go through the list... and... since I am restoring this vehicle, I figured I might as well replace everything since I can afford it, and I'd rather not just fix "1" single 22 year old part only for another one to break in a few weeks, months whatever.
As I mentioned several threads above, my AS reed valve is NOT connected, nor does it look like it's had a vacuum line on it in years. Every vac diagram I have seen shows it connected (in my photo attachment this is the yellow highlighted line) mine does not look like that, it goes into the passenger fender! I'm like, wtf is that??? and no one has said... yea, mine does that too.
FWIW, this truck was originally a California truck in 92, then it went to Hawaii, then to Washington state, then...... it went to Key West, then to Jacksonville, Florida to me. Not sure if it matters, here in FL we don't have inspections or emissions checks - but, I still want the truck OEM. I don't know who will buy this from me in the future and I want it to work - but mostly - I need this truck to be reliable.
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06-03-2014, 09:48 AM
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#18
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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I know what you mean about replacing old parts so you know they are new and reliable. When I rebuilt my 22re I replaced every sensor on it. They may not have all been bad but I wanted all new goodies under the hood so I wouldn't have to worry about it down the road.
I also gutted all my egr stuff and deleted 99% of my vacuum lines. It really cleans up the engine bay and makes things much more simple.
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06-03-2014, 10:05 AM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SV_Dude
I know what you mean about replacing old parts so you know they are new and reliable. When I rebuilt my 22re I replaced every sensor on it. They may not have all been bad but I wanted all new goodies under the hood so I wouldn't have to worry about it down the road.
I also gutted all my egr stuff and deleted 99% of my vacuum lines. It really cleans up the engine bay and makes things much more simple.
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this makes me wonder........... it sure would make things EASY. I think I read a thread about this, and it sounds very appealing. I just feel like I am SO close, but I am at a loss at what to do next. What a PITA this is!
I actually called the stealership to see if there was an old yota tech there, they charge $100 /hr to diagnose. I told them that I already know the code, and that I have replaced a ton of stuff..... so... process of elimination - I should know what it's "not". That being said...... I am afraid of dropping it off, but I'm afraid of continuing down this rabbit hole.
In Florida, I don't need emmissions - I have a BMW racecar that is catless and runs methanol - so... I'm not a tree hugger.
But....... I still want this rig to be reliable.
One thing I did this morning is RECONNECT that PAIR/AS Reed valve according to the vac. diagram and I capped off where it WAS going in the passenger fender - with everything hooked up, the truck (COLD) was running fine. Idle was maintaining about 800-1000 RPMS........ but the REED valve was making a loud clicking sound!!
I drove to work (about 10 mile drive) and after the motor warmed up, at a stop light.... the idle DROPPED down to about 300 RPM and struggled to keep the motor turning. I had to give is gas to keep the motor running.......
So... my problem is with a HOT motor maintaining proper idle.
That is my current situation - NOTHING I do has seems to have made any impact to address this situation. It's so frustrating!!!
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06-03-2014, 10:27 AM
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#20
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Did you still have a lack of power after you routed your vacuum lines per the diagram?
You still need to test all egr related equipment if you plan to keep it stock. If not, rip all that sh!t outta there and cap everything.
Also, when your engine started to fall on its face at the stop, did you get any new CEL codes? Double check to verify.
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06-03-2014, 10:36 AM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SV_Dude
Did you still have a lack of power after you routed your vacuum lines per the diagram?
You still need to test all egr related equipment if you plan to keep it stock. If not, rip all that sh!t outta there and cap everything.
Also, when your engine started to fall on its face at the stop, did you get any new CEL codes? Double check to verify.
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"...Did you still have a lack of power after you routed your vacuum lines per the diagram?..."
--> actually... no. I mean, it's a yota 3.0... there's not much there to begin with, but it was actually responsive and held acceleration through the powerband.
"...You still need to test all egr related equipment if you plan to keep it stock. If not, rip all that sh!t outta there and cap everything..."
I'm still mulling this over... I spent a lot of money to make this sh!t work, I think by principle alone, I'm on a mission.. lol
"...Also, when your engine started to fall on its face at the stop, did you get any new CEL codes? Double check to verify...."
--> dammit, I left my paperclip at home to check.. didn't even think of that...
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06-03-2014, 11:36 AM
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#22
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The fact that it ran smooth once you routed your vacuum lines properly pretty much rules out tps and timing. I usually suggest tps when something is throttle related because it's a common issue but timing is also a common issue when people tinker.
Let's recap. All vacuum lines are routed properly per the diagram, right? Your runner idles fine when cold and drives fine when warm right? Your only issue now is that when the engine is warm it doesn't want to idle?
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06-03-2014, 12:09 PM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SV_Dude
The fact that it ran smooth once you routed your vacuum lines properly pretty much rules out tps and timing. I usually suggest tps when something is throttle related because it's a common issue but timing is also a common issue when people tinker.
Let's recap. All vacuum lines are routed properly per the diagram, right? Your runner idles fine when cold and drives fine when warm right? Your only issue now is that when the engine is warm it doesn't want to idle?
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"...All vacuum lines are routed properly per the diagram, right? Your runner idles fine when cold and drives fine when warm right? Your only issue now is that when the engine is warm it doesn't want to idle?..."
--> You are correct sir. Just duplicated about 30 minutes ago. I went out to the truck during my lunch break, the engine had a chance to cool. It started right up (Reed Valve clacking away loudly) but..... the idle was smooth.
I then drove to the toyota dealership and had a chat with one of their lead techs... he told me that my reed valve in a 4WD didn't need to be connected, but that the vacuum line in the pass. fender was for my 4WD!!
anyway.... once the engine was hot from the drive over, idle dropped and staggered.....
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06-03-2014, 01:10 PM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmanhiker
"...All vacuum lines are routed properly per the diagram, right? Your runner idles fine when cold and drives fine when warm right? Your only issue now is that when the engine is warm it doesn't want to idle?..."
--> You are correct sir. Just duplicated about 30 minutes ago. I went out to the truck during my lunch break, the engine had a chance to cool. It started right up (Reed Valve clacking away loudly) but..... the idle was smooth.
I then drove to the toyota dealership and had a chat with one of their lead techs... he told me that my reed valve in a 4WD didn't need to be connected, but that the vacuum line in the pass. fender was for my 4WD!!
anyway.... once the engine was hot from the drive over, idle dropped and staggered.....
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I have a hard time listening to other mechanics when they suggest something that differs from the FSM. Toyota designed these things and wrote the FSM. I am a helicopter mechanic by trade so I have learned to ALWAYS go by the book and it has never let me down. So, any advice that I may give will 99% of the time be by the book.
My advice stands as it did before. Test your EGR VSV (I'm not sure which vsv you replaced, egr or pair), you have a new egr valve but I would test it anyway and also test your egr vacuum modulator. If all of those test good then you have something boogered up in your lines or vacuum ports on the throttle body. Either way your engine isn't getting the air that the AFM is telling the ECU that it has when your engine is warn and idling (vacuum leak).
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06-03-2014, 01:36 PM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SV_Dude
I have a hard time listening to other mechanics when they suggest something that differs from the FSM. Toyota designed these things and wrote the FSM. I am a helicopter mechanic by trade so I have learned to ALWAYS go by the book and it has never let me down. So, any advice that I may give will 99% of the time be by the book.
My advice stands as it did before. Test your EGR VSV (I'm not sure which vsv you replaced, egr or pair), you have a new egr valve but I would test it anyway and also test your egr vacuum modulator. If all of those test good then you have something boogered up in your lines or vacuum ports on the throttle body. Either way your engine isn't getting the air that the AFM is telling the ECU that it has when your engine is warn and idling (vacuum leak).
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yep, I got it. I am willing to let the tech troubleshoot for no more than 2 hours ($200) to see what he may come up with. The truth is, I am out of options and he technically knows more than I do... but I agree with you at this point, I am thinking something may be boogered up in the metal lines leading to the TB. Something is clogged..........
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06-03-2014, 02:56 PM
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#26
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Given that there are now no codes and it's running fine except when idling once warm, is there some reason you're not looking in the direction of the air flow meter and any leaks between there and the throttle body?
If there's a small leak or the sensor is a bit out (or coated, etc), it could throw off the air/fuel mixture once into a closed system when warm. If it's a small amount, it might just affect things at idle. If it's a larger amount, it will also affect overall power.
I had this on a 3000gt where the intercooler line popped off. That was a major leak, so it barely idled once warm while that was mucked up.
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06-03-2014, 05:19 PM
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#27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giro
Given that there are now no codes and it's running fine except when idling once warm, is there some reason you're not looking in the direction of the air flow meter and any leaks between there and the throttle body?
If there's a small leak or the sensor is a bit out (or coated, etc), it could throw off the air/fuel mixture once into a closed system when warm. If it's a small amount, it might just affect things at idle. If it's a larger amount, it will also affect overall power.
I had this on a 3000gt where the intercooler line popped off. That was a major leak, so it barely idled once warm while that was mucked up.
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yea, I'm thinking the issue is no somewhere in the throttle body as well. I am working through that right now. Thanks!
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06-04-2014, 08:41 PM
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#28
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Any updates? I'm curious what the Toyota tech said.
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06-04-2014, 10:21 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SV_Dude
Any updates? I'm curious what the Toyota tech said.
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got a call today and they told me that they found the issue. The metal pipes going from the vacuum regulator to the throttle body (I think "P" port) had rust inside of it. He ran a new piece of vacuum tubing from the throttle body directly to the regulator and it addressed the poor idle. He also said 2 vacuum lines were swapped but he didn't say exactly where. I'll get the details on Friday. He also took the line that I had temporarily connected back to the AS Pair/Reed valve and put it back to the passenger fender VSV valve.
On 4WD, there are 2 vacuum hoses going to the front axle actuator. One will have a blue paint mark on it, other will be a brown paint mark. These hoses will go into the engine room, pass side, rear of the inner fender behind the fues box. You will see 2 vacuum switching valves, (called VSV's from here forward) and they will be blue and a brown one. Brown puts you into 4WD, blue takes you out. In 2WD, the blue VSV should be supplying vacuum down to the actuator. In 4WD, brown will while blue shuts off (this vacuum just slides a sleeve as vacuum is moved from one side to the other of a diaphragm)
He tested everything COLD and idle was perfect with everything where it should be, but remember, my issue was with the engine HOT. He will test drive the truck tomorrow and we'll see if this is a solid fix. I'll post again once this get's ironed out... at $100 /hr I'm now up to 2.5 hours.... smh
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10-26-2016, 03:24 PM
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#30
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question: is there an easy way to tell if i have ADD or non ADD?
I have the the vsv setup on the passenger side of the engine bay but i dont know if that automatically means ADD as well. I cant seem to find any vaccum hoses on the diff. itseelf
Also I have the 22re so i dont know if that matters. I read another thread where a guy claimed to have ADD.
anything helps.
Gracias,
Ay Ay Ron
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