Forget the rest of the system, the electronics and vaccum lines and all that mess - just comparing the hubs themselves, are ADD hubs stronger than manual Aisin hubs? Seems like they would be because there's no moving parts in the hubs, but I've never looked at one and have no idea. Anybody else know? Are the ADD hubs stouter than manual hubs?

Good question. Id also like to know!

are you talking full time hubs? like drive flanges? its just a splined slug, correct?
yes, I would expect they are stronger. but OE Toyota locking hubs are very strong.

what are you thinking?

What, you smell the smoke from over there huh?

Dunno yet, might be nothin'. I need to cogitate, and maybe find an ADD IFS diff to take apart.

Im not sure what your thinking either..but I like it.

In theory it should be stronger, no moving parts. Ive always wanted to weld a front IFS diff and use the add slide collar on a cable (some how) To make a ghetto "selectable" locker.. Haha.

Dont forget they are only 27 (26? I forget) spline if your planning on using them on your truck.

They do have a better wheel bearing adjuster though, Ive read somewhere on how to make it work with selectable hubs.. pretty sure the rear of a fj80 is similar to it. (those also use flanges (front too) that will work on a mini truck solid axle and are 30 spline)

I believe you're correct in that he's talking about swapping the drive flanges, for some selectable hubs.

The drive flanges are stronger than selectable hubs. But I still swapped out the drive flanges on a '93 SR5 truck I had, for some SuperWinch selectable hubs, and later for some Warn selectable hubs. I knew I was sacrificing some strength, but the tradeoff of better MPG and lighter steering, due to not spinning the CV-axles all the time, was worthwhile, IMO.

When I first bought my 3rd gen '97 4Runner, I was going to do the same thing. But that would've required more work than the '93 ADD setup did, so I never got around to it.

17 years later, having the CV-axles spinning all the time, hasn't been much of a problem, other than some lost efficiency.

No, I have selectable hubs on the '85, it didn't come with ADD.

so what exactly are you up to?

they do sell drive slugs for your runner.
IMO, they would be a worst case scenario, to get back to camp, or off the trail. I much prefer having the locking hubs up front. and as I said, the OEM hubs are VERY strong. stronger then pretty much all the aftermarket stuff.

throw in some chromo hub gears and you're set.

Okay, I should've left out all the other commentary, and just posted this:

But as Nevada said, there are downsides to running a drive flange, instead of a selectable hub.

The biggest upgrade that I can think of for the TG flanges (not the FJ 80 flanges) Is the upgrade to 6 larger dowel pins (and the hubs are chromo) . The fancy pants hub gears dont do anything for you if your hub is laying on the ground because it sheared off.

Ive never heard of the inner hub gear breaking, only the outer.

But all of this may be over kill for your truck...?

I think its time you spill the beans and let us know what your scheemin up! But I agree with Nevada, hub gears and go.

Heres the "add style" wheel bearing retainer.. Looks like TG makes one..

4130 Chromoly Spindle Wheel Bearing Nut Kit, Trail-Gear (300519-KIT)

This is not for my truck . Or not the '85, at least, but there may be potential for the '99. I gotta look at that setup next.

I just might have an idea for a thing, that's all. If it's stupid and doesn't work you won't hear anything more about it . Found a local fellow willing to donate an ADD diff and tube to the cause, so I'll say more once I know if I can make it work. I mostly wanted to make sure there wasn't a weak point in the ADD hubs that would make them inferior to the manual hubs at the axle/wheel interface. Sounds like they're stronger, so that's good.

I just rebuilt my whole ADD system and swapped out my flanges for Asins earlier. The flanges are built like tanks. as far as wear, my front diff really had none, i was able to reuse almost all parts accept for those freaking brass bushings that are found inside my spindles, they were obliterated and separated into a sleeve and washer. Toyota IFS Axle Inner Brass Bushing and the outer bushing which looks pretty similar

The flanges are completely solid so no wear there, on the hubs themselves, after time will need to be repacked with grease etc etc etc…….. The star lock washer was in great shape even though it looked like it had been removed a few times, i was pretty careful about bending this back and forth.


The locking hubs are 100000 times better, and seem just as strong as the flanges "IMO", just because of the wear on the boots, also gave me 1-2 MPG better


Just my 2cents Figured id contribute i went through that whole Asins or to keep my stock flange debate