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Old 04-19-2013, 03:44 PM #1
ChellaBella ChellaBella is offline
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Rear Hatch Motor

Probably another thread but what the hay..

I've missed you guys!! Been a little crazy in the Fort... ^_^

As you guys know I have a 1993.. and she is still the love of my life.... but...

The window in the back hatch is stuck halfway down.... Its rainy season here in AR... no bueno...

When I turn the key either way it clicks... and that is it.

So... anyone have advice?

My father said for me to take the molding off and look at the numbers on the motor and search on google for what else that particular motor might have been used on and then search for one of them at a salvage yard and buy it and stick her in there. Unless the whole thing is together with the regulator and blah blah and then I should see if I can drill the existing motor out and rig it up Backwoods AR style... ^_^

Keep in mind that my father is a computer guy and this occasionally skews his perspective... So I figured I should ask the 4RUNNER GUYS!! ^_^
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:54 PM #2
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I would test the existing motor before replacing it. If you don't have a copy of the Factory Service Manual, see if you can get one (check the stickies up top). Then grab a voltmeter and start checking wires.
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:38 PM #3
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I agree with KidV. Don't just assume that the motor is bad. Usually an electric motor doesn't just "click" when it stops working. If you're hearing a clicking noise, I would be willing to bet that you stripped some teeth on the gears of either the track assembly or the motor itself.
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:00 PM #4
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Verify before throwing parts, time and money unnecessarily at your problem.
What clicks? Motor? Gears? Window control relay?

But your father is right, get access to be able so see motor and gears. Put tal gate in normal operating position. Try Up and down switch. Does motor turn but not engage gear? Gears worn out?
If motor does not turn, what clicks? Maybe relays click to send power to motor?
Get schematic, Disconnect connector from motor, try up position read voltage at UP pin of connector, do same with down.

What do you see?

Then we'll go from there.
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:03 PM #5
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When you take off the rear cover you'll see he motor with a red and green wire running to it. One is for up, the the other for down. Using a test light or multimeter, make sure you are getting power back while someone throws the inside switch. If you are getting power and the motor isn't working, then you'll know if its the motor. If no power, check the switches with the multimeter and see if they are working. Then the last thing should be the relays. Investigate all possibilities before you spend money.
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:05 PM #6
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One other thing. If you determine the motor is bad, take it with you to your local pull and pay or Toyota used parts dealer and just make sure your pigtail is the same. Numbers aren't that big of deal.
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Old 04-20-2013, 01:39 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbuchmann View Post
One other thing. If you determine the motor is bad, take it with you to your local pull and pay or Toyota used parts dealer and just make sure your pigtail is the same. Numbers aren't that big of deal.
Also research other vehicles that share same motor. At least on 1st gens, IIRC certain Camry model window motor would work, too.
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Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:39 PM #8
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When i turb the key i here one click and that is it.. My next question then is how to get to the motor... The wondow is halfway down.. I havwnt been able to mess with it yet but is there a simple way to bypass the lack that keeps the door from opening when the window isnt completely down? Or will i need to climb in from the backseat ? Once i get past that step what do i beed to do to get the molding off?
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Old 04-21-2013, 05:06 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChellaBella View Post
When i turb the key i here one click and that is it.. My next question then is how to get to the motor... The wondow is halfway down.. I havwnt been able to mess with it yet but is there a simple way to bypass the lack that keeps the door from opening when the window isnt completely down? Or will i need to climb in from the backseat ? Once i get past that step what do i beed to do to get the molding off?
Factory Service Manual. It's got the entire procedure for getting to the motor while it's not working.

There's links in the stickies up top. If the links are broken, and they may be, I bet if you asked real nice somebody would be willing to post a screencap...
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Old 04-21-2013, 05:10 PM #10
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Your going to have to get in there from the behind the seats. Once in there you'll need some tools the get the panels off. As far as what tools, hard to tell. I'm sure a screwdriver but who knows? Someone may have been in there and put 1/2" bolts through everything. Hard to tell from here without a picture.

Anyway, once you get the panel off there should be a rod that keeps the back gate from unlocking when the window is up. You're going to need to bypass that by disconnecting it. Once you get it open you can trick the gate into thinking it is closed by putting a flat tip screwdriver in the gate latch. On my 89 it was on the driver side. Not sure what side yours will be one but you should see a wiring harness coming from one of the latches to the motor.

Once you have the gate tricked into thinking it is closed, you should be able troubleshoot it by running a hot wire from the battery to the window motor. Power to one side and ground the other of the window plug will give the motor power. It is reverse polarity, so just swap the wires and it it will attempt to go the other way. Make sure you have something behind the gate like a couple of saw horses and a piece of plywood to support the window in case it ends up working. The rear glass is not cheap.

Once you have it all set up take a look and see what you have. If the window motor tries to work with power straight to it, you might have tracks that are bound up and need adjusting, a bad switch, or even a bad relay in the driver B-Post (I think that is where yours is).

Here is a link to your back gate portion of the FSM from my dropbox. https://www.dropbox.com/s/6azfu48z5jgl0wr/backdoor.pdf
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Rear Hatch Motor-screen-shot-2013-04-21-4-00-16-pm-jpg  Rear Hatch Motor-screen-shot-2013-04-21-4-00-26-pm-jpg 
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I think you should visit an automotive professional.

Last edited by helo-mech; 04-21-2013 at 05:13 PM.
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Old 12-14-2014, 10:08 PM #11
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93 4Runner rear Hatch window

When it is dry and the weather is nice, I have no issues opening the rear hatch window. When it gets cold or wet, that is another story. Using the key in the rear window will not move the window down. Any suggestions?
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Old 12-23-2014, 12:38 PM #12
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When it gets cold or wet, that is another story. Using the key in the rear window will not ,,,
Water is shorting something. Either it's getting to your rear window control relay, or one of the limit swtches that tell ur relay tailgate or glass is in the position where glass should not move. (Sorry i have a first-gen so different schematic and locations)/Post a clear schematic of ur truck, find where the limit swithes are, get a multi-meter and we'll go from there. Merry Christmas!
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