08-06-2015, 02:42 AM
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#46
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Utard
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Real Name: Kevin
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Elite Member
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Real Name: Kevin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darrie
Here's what achievable (no blazeland kit) with IFS, but blazeland will achieve better just by bolt on.
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That may be one of the most nicely set up 2nd gen's I've seen. More pics!
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'My needle always settles between west and southwest. The future lies that way to me, and the earth seems more unexhausted and richer on that side.' - Thoreau, sort of.
The Grey Bastard, 1985 4Runner, driveway ornament.
Utah DesertRunners T4R, for all things wheeling and 4Runner in Utah.
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08-06-2015, 02:44 AM
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#47
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cairns QLD AUSTRALIA
Posts: 44
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Join Date: Apr 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by santanvalleydirt
Thanks for the info, and nice pics! What tires are you running there?
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32" Toyo's on 16" rims, but now running Hankook Dynapro MT's that look similar. Just as quiet onroad, $140 cheaper each tyre, much lighter. Traction I think is actually better than Toyo's (my last trip they never broke traction once even in 2wd trail work), but possibly weaker in sidewall than the Toyo's (understandably as I'm sure the Toyo's could take a bullet and still stay inflated !!!).
You can go a taller tyre up to 32" with a few suspension mods, but recommend any new taller tyre combo try getting it on an alloy rim rather than steel, and look closely at tyre weights - keeping the rotational mass down reduces the need for regearing diffs which is expensive.
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08-06-2015, 02:59 AM
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#48
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darrie
32" Toyo's on 16" rims, but now running Hankook Dynapro MT's that look similar. Just as quiet onroad, $140 cheaper each tyre, much lighter. Traction I think is actually better than Toyo's (my last trip they never broke traction once even in 2wd trail work), but possibly weaker in sidewall than the Toyo's (understandably as I'm sure the Toyo's could take a bullet and still stay inflated !!!).
You can go a taller tyre up to 32" with a few suspension mods, but recommend any new taller tyre combo try getting it on an alloy rim rather than steel, and look closely at tyre weights - keeping the rotational mass down reduces the need for regearing diffs which is expensive.
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What did you do to fit 32'' w/out a total lift?
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08-06-2015, 03:48 AM
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#49
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Join Date: Apr 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by santanvalleydirt
What did you do to fit 32'' w/out a total lift?
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32's narrows fit, but under compression on full lock the tread will touch the mudflap bolts ... but how hard depends on just how big/how worn your tyre is and the rim offset (narrower track tucks in and clears better). Some run a ball joint spacer kit and lift the front - this lessens the amount of times you touch, but again hard offroad wheel stuffed up on tight lock you can still touch. Round flat headed screws on the mudflap are a good choice as they don't get grabbed by the tread like the bolts do.
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08-06-2015, 06:09 AM
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#50
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Utard
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Real Name: Kevin
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Elite Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Real Name: Kevin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by santanvalleydirt
What did you do to fit 32'' w/out a total lift?
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Skinnies are key.
@ Quatre Coureur
has 33x10.5s with no lift at all. I stuffed 255/85r16s under my '86 with just ball joint spacers and some pounding.
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'My needle always settles between west and southwest. The future lies that way to me, and the earth seems more unexhausted and richer on that side.' - Thoreau, sort of.
The Grey Bastard, 1985 4Runner, driveway ornament.
Utah DesertRunners T4R, for all things wheeling and 4Runner in Utah.
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08-06-2015, 11:46 AM
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#51
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Haunted Turnbull Cyn. CA
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Real Name: BestGen on 4Runners.com, Tundras.com, & TacomaWorld
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KidVermicious
Skinnies are key.
@ Quatre Coureur
has 33x10.5s with no lift at all. I stuffed 255/85r16s under my '86 with just ball joint spacers and some pounding.
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Yup. Skinnies make it all possible. There's no way in hell I could run 12.5s. The way I have it setup on the OEM 15x6" rims let it tuck under the fenders. That and the 'ol PWM(BFH!). I am going to lift it(1.5F, Ome2.R)but primarily for a bit more clearance underneath. Got the BJ spacers(4x4Wire). Did an install on
@ MrAhso
RNR. Was fairly easy. I haven't forgotten Alex!
Kevin did u experience any issues w/bjs? My CVs are flat as can be.
(forgive me if I've already asked)
Btw the IFS works pretty good.
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1988 4RunnerXTE, 22RE/W56/RF1A, '93 G144 swap 4.88s, Spartan Locker, AllProOffroad Sliders, TG rear bumper, 33/10.5/15 BFG KM2s, 15x6 oem wheels, 4Crawler 1.5" BJS, OME 2" Dakar Leafsprings 🎌 2005 Tundra RC 4wd, 2UZ-FE/A750F, 4.56s, 3" Fabtech coilovers, 34/10.5/17 BFG KO2s, 17x7.5 TE wheels 🎌 🇪🇸 🏴 🇸🇪 🏴 🏴
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08-06-2015, 11:50 AM
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#52
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2010
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Real Name: Kevin
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My only trouble with ball joint spacers was a little rubbing on the upper control arms when I first put them on (31x12.5s on 10 inch rims). A little work with the flap wheel took care of most of that, and I had the shop delete a little camber to take care of the rest.
But that was because I was running stupid wide tires on stupid wide wheels. No fitment issues at all once I switched to the skinnies. And my CV angle was always great.
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'My needle always settles between west and southwest. The future lies that way to me, and the earth seems more unexhausted and richer on that side.' - Thoreau, sort of.
The Grey Bastard, 1985 4Runner, driveway ornament.
Utah DesertRunners T4R, for all things wheeling and 4Runner in Utah.
Last edited by KidVermicious; 08-06-2015 at 11:55 AM.
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08-06-2015, 12:20 PM
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#53
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Excellent! Answered all my ?s. On the rear I'm planning on some CS009Rs. I will be pulling a small trailer in the near future. Most likely a teardrop/utility type. Thoughts?
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1988 4RunnerXTE, 22RE/W56/RF1A, '93 G144 swap 4.88s, Spartan Locker, AllProOffroad Sliders, TG rear bumper, 33/10.5/15 BFG KM2s, 15x6 oem wheels, 4Crawler 1.5" BJS, OME 2" Dakar Leafsprings 🎌 2005 Tundra RC 4wd, 2UZ-FE/A750F, 4.56s, 3" Fabtech coilovers, 34/10.5/17 BFG KO2s, 17x7.5 TE wheels 🎌 🇪🇸 🏴 🇸🇪 🏴 🏴
Last edited by Quatre Coureur; 08-06-2015 at 12:22 PM.
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08-06-2015, 12:26 PM
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#54
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Join Date: Feb 2010
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I think you're nuts. I'd go to 5.29 and make it a light trailer.
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'My needle always settles between west and southwest. The future lies that way to me, and the earth seems more unexhausted and richer on that side.' - Thoreau, sort of.
The Grey Bastard, 1985 4Runner, driveway ornament.
Utah DesertRunners T4R, for all things wheeling and 4Runner in Utah.
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08-06-2015, 12:47 PM
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#55
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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If I only had a dollar for every time I heard that! The trailer would be around 1500#. I've towed bigger trailer when it was 4:10/31s. Hauled a big load(seats down,packed)up a mountain with a full hitch rack too. Ran friggin strong! Cruised at 80. NP.
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1988 4RunnerXTE, 22RE/W56/RF1A, '93 G144 swap 4.88s, Spartan Locker, AllProOffroad Sliders, TG rear bumper, 33/10.5/15 BFG KM2s, 15x6 oem wheels, 4Crawler 1.5" BJS, OME 2" Dakar Leafsprings 🎌 2005 Tundra RC 4wd, 2UZ-FE/A750F, 4.56s, 3" Fabtech coilovers, 34/10.5/17 BFG KO2s, 17x7.5 TE wheels 🎌 🇪🇸 🏴 🇸🇪 🏴 🏴
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09-01-2015, 08:56 PM
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#56
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Lancaster, OH
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I'm definitely with the SAS crowd on this one. It all comes down to articulation, and the only ones that come close to the solid axle are, like some have mentioned, the super high dollar IFS set-ups. My last rig was actually much taller than I wanted it, due to the body lift I needed for a V8 swap, and yet it still was very stable when sticking one side on very large rocks. I cringe at the thought of taking my IFS rigs over serious rocks--if you don't tip over, you drag everything as you slide down your skidplates. Even a 4" lift you still barely increase your articulation with IFS, and that is what keeps your wheels planted and you moving forward--you could actually make do with a non-locking diff on the SAS because your tires stay in better contact. This also means you can go slower over tougher obstacles, because you maintain four contact patches longer. Another plus with SAS is increased CENTER height. No matter what you do with IFS, you have all that junk down the center, whereas the solid axle lifts it's center section as the tire climbs. If you want the SAS to handle better on pavement, hook up swaybars with quick disconnects, and you have the best of both worlds! Yeah, for my money, I'll go with a solid front axle.
p.s. Will whoever keeps posting the giant pics which make the posts run away out the right side PLEASE find a site that can minimize photos before posting?! LOL
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Former owner of four Runners: three 2nd Gens and one 1st Gen. Idle for now, but will be back in one again before too long.
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09-02-2015, 06:20 AM
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#57
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cairns QLD AUSTRALIA
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BucknutBob
p.s. Will whoever keeps posting the giant pics which make the posts run away out the right side PLEASE find a site that can minimize photos before posting?! LOL
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Guilty LOL !!! Now sorted
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09-02-2015, 07:57 AM
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#58
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Utard
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Real Name: Kevin
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Elite Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Utard
Posts: 12,985
Real Name: Kevin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BucknutBob
p.s. Will whoever keeps posting the giant pics which make the posts run away out the right side PLEASE find a site that can minimize photos before posting?! LOL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darrie
Guilty LOL !!! Now sorted
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Pssst... ;)
__________________
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'My needle always settles between west and southwest. The future lies that way to me, and the earth seems more unexhausted and richer on that side.' - Thoreau, sort of.
The Grey Bastard, 1985 4Runner, driveway ornament.
Utah DesertRunners T4R, for all things wheeling and 4Runner in Utah.
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