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Old 04-07-2016, 11:15 PM #1
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Thumbs down no start issue after KS replacement.
so i replaced the knock sensor wire on my 3vze, put everything back together and no it wont start. its getting spark and fuel... but just cranks and cranks but will not turn on. somebody please help, any help would be appreciated so i dont have to take this thing to the stealership.
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Old 04-07-2016, 11:23 PM #2
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Check the timing. It may be out. You can loosen the distributor and advance or retard it then turn it over to see if it will fire.
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Old 04-07-2016, 11:31 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mastermechanicjt View Post
Check the timing. It may be out. You can loosen the distributor and advance or retard it then turn it over to see if it will fire.
i have tried moving distributor to both extremes... and it still will not start. any way to check timing without redoing the belt considering its not running?
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Old 04-07-2016, 11:56 PM #4
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How did you time it when you put it back together or when you took it apart for that matter. Did you rotate to TDC beforehand?
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Old 04-08-2016, 12:09 AM #5
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Did you remember to plug in the air flow meter? I know the 3.4 won't run with it disconnected not sure about 3.0 but that could be an easy fix...
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Old 04-08-2016, 12:12 AM #6
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Also check grounds. Did you disconnect the coolant temp sensor? If that's not working right it can cause weird no start problems.
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Old 04-08-2016, 12:13 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndgenmafia View Post
i have tried moving distributor to both extremes... and it still will not start. any way to check timing without redoing the belt considering its not running?
You could hook up the timing light and have someone turn it over. It might show up just enough to see if your close.

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Old 04-08-2016, 12:25 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wshiverick View Post
Also check grounds. Did you disconnect the coolant temp sensor? If that's not working right it can cause weird no start problems.
air flow meter is hooked up.. and yes i had to disconnect the coolant temp sensor to get the intake manifold off.
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Old 04-08-2016, 12:29 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wshiverick View Post
Did you remember to plug in the air flow meter? I know the 3.4 won't run with it disconnected not sure about 3.0 but that could be an easy fix...
The 22RE and 3VZE are the same. But if he's getting fuel then this isn't his problem, because if there was no signal from the AFM/MAF then the COP wouldn't give power to the fuel pump.
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Old 04-08-2016, 12:37 AM #10
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How did you check fuel pressure? Push the schrader valve on the fuel rail while cranking or are you just hearing it prime when you turn the key? Is there a chance you broke the connector for the coolant temp sensor or broke the sensor itself? If you're getting spark and fuel the best idea I have is a problem with a sensor that regulates the air/fuel mixture. I've seen it where a bad ect is registering like -50 degrees so the injectors are just dumping fuel in the cylinders and flooding it out.
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:07 AM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wshiverick View Post
How did you check fuel pressure? Push the schrader valve on the fuel rail while cranking or are you just hearing it prime when you turn the key? Is there a chance you broke the connector for the coolant temp sensor or broke the sensor itself? If you're getting spark and fuel the best idea I have is a problem with a sensor that regulates the air/fuel mixture. I've seen it where a bad ect is registering like -50 degrees so the injectors are just dumping fuel in the cylinders and flooding it out.
i know im getting fuel bc i unplugged the cold start and it was spraying fuel... hearing the pump prime, and listening to the injectors fire. also i had a slight fuel leak on one of the rails (fixed that). im just stumped with this problem.. and need it fixed as soon as possible so i get this rig back out on the road & the trails.
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:29 AM #12
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If you truly have fuel and spark, in theory, you're only missing air for it to run. You still didn't answer how you tore it down, did you set it to TDC beforehand and how did you put it back together. You need to verify timing to begin with(assuming you took the belt off?) and go from there. Don't guess by rotating the distributor. Time it properly and go from there.
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:46 AM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mholme View Post
If you truly have fuel and spark, in theory, you're only missing air for it to run. You still didn't answer how you tore it down, did you set it to TDC beforehand and how did you put it back together. You need to verify timing to begin with(assuming you took the belt off?) and go from there. Don't guess by rotating the distributor. Time it properly and go from there.
i popped the plenum off the intake mani came off... gained access to the KS wire & replaced it... with new gaskets put it all back together. you dont have to take the belt off at all. i did not set it tdc before the tear down... from my understanding i didnt have to do the timing considered i did not touch the belt...or any other ignition component.
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Old 04-08-2016, 02:07 AM #14
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I thought the upper idle roller for the timing belt was held down by a few bolts through the manifold. But anyway, it sounds like you're missing air to make it run. I would still verify timing if it doesn't run after you've checked for the obvious(vacuum leaks, etc.). You'll figure it out.
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Old 04-08-2016, 02:29 AM #15
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Quote:
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I thought the upper idle roller for the timing belt was held down by a few bolts through the manifold. But anyway, it sounds like you're missing air to make it run. I would still verify timing if it doesn't run after you've checked for the obvious(vacuum leaks, etc.). You'll figure it out.
You are absolutely right... It's bolted to the manifold by 4 bolts. That I did have to take off. Think it could have made the belt loose enough to jump a tooth or two and get outta timing? I mean at this point it's my only option... I guess. I have went through vac lines 1000x double and triple checked the testing stated in the fsm for all sensors to possibly make it not start.
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