05-21-2016, 11:21 AM
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#16
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeynational
Just completed by BJ spacer. It was hard to tell in previous pics but it was slightly higher in theback. Question is does the front seem high now to anyone?
After a drive i noticed it was a little more bouncy and not so smooth. Almost felt unstable taking turns like it wanted to tip over. Anyone else experience this? I may just need new shocks Attachment 204851Attachment 204852
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No, it doesn't look too high in the front. It is actually a little higher in the back based onthe pictures.
It is "level" when the front measurement (from the top of the wheel to the bottom of the fender) is 2" higher inthe front than the rear. Fake example: 16" front, 14" rear. The front fenders are higher on the body.
Looks good to me where it sits.
If it seems tipsy test out your suspension. Put a jack under the cross member at the bottomof the skid plate, and jack it up - see how many inches the suspension has to droop. Measure from wheel to fender to compare. You want at least a couple of inches. When you gey an alignment make sure they fix the camber this will also inrpove turning and cornering.
When you raise the truck off the ground if you do not get much droop the shocks are probably too short like you thought - this can make it seem tipsy too.
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1989 Toyota 4Runner SR5, 3.0L V6, 4x4, 5-Speed Manual, 2" add-a-leaf kit in rear, Bone Stock with 31x10.5" tires.
Last edited by 89FourRunner; 05-21-2016 at 11:24 AM.
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05-21-2016, 02:59 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: PHX, AZ
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Thanks your right my camber is jacked...ill check the travel too.
I just wasnt used to it before im happy with it now and i measured it and its exactly 2" higher in the front..guess im level!😃
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05-22-2016, 11:28 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Mar 2016
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Did a lighting upgrade today. GOt all my LEDs in, from left to right I have license plate LED, dash LEDs, and two different dome/cargo area LEDs. The one on the far right is a high powered one. You can see the difference.
High power LED
and the other one
My license plate lenses were pretty nasty. I buffed them out and put in the LEDs
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05-23-2016, 09:11 AM
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#19
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: 48.7135° N, 118.0253° W
Posts: 90
Real Name: Ed
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: 48.7135° N, 118.0253° W
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Real Name: Ed
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Wow, the "high power" led is really, really bright, looks like day time when it's on, lol! Gotta get me some of those!
Did you pick those up at Superbright LED's .com?
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05-23-2016, 10:25 AM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustED_
Wow, the "high power" led is really, really bright, looks like day time when it's on, lol! Gotta get me some of those!
Did you pick those up at Superbright LED's .com?
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No I actually got them on banggood.com I think superbrightleds are a little over priced.
License plate lights are super bright too. If your patient you can get them way cheaper. Just takes about 2-3 weeks from China, otherwise some of their products may have an option to be shipped from a US warehouse but they are a little more expensive. I've never had a problem with them and I've bought quite a bit of stuff. Here is the links;
Dome $2ea
http://www.banggood.com/6W-6000K-COB...p-1000754.html
License plate $.99ea
http://www.banggood.com/1156-BA15S-C...-p-990393.html
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05-30-2016, 08:50 PM
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#21
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Got bored today, so decided to do full IFS rebuild and new brakes. My CVs were shot so I had to disassemble some of it anyway. Might as well do it all now. Has anyone done the control arm bushings before? I did my 2wd pickup before not sure if the 4x4 is any easier/harder?
Not sure WTH is going on here. I ordered 2 CV axles online and got two different styles, or one missing the seat part. The good thing is that i got them for autozone. So i'll just return the one missing the seal.
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06-02-2016, 10:47 PM
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#22
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Ive had these rims for a while and i finally got tires. I had to put one side on to see what it looked like. I couldn't get a good side shot cuz the truck is diassembled on the other side..but you get the idea. Im going to have to modify something on the rear bcuz the drum hub/lip is same size as center bore of rim. The rims wont sit flush.
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06-17-2016, 09:54 PM
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#23
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parts have been trickling in and piling up! Still have a couple orders coming in but the entire front end is going to basically be new! It's going to be hot as balls here in Phoenix this weekend pushing 120, i bought a portable swamp cooler to help alleviate some heat but not sure how much its going to help. Needless to say i'm going to be busy for a while
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06-24-2016, 06:12 PM
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#24
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Location: Arizona
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I guessing that you did not cut those 3rd gen springs when you added them.
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1986 4Runner, 5spd 22RE, stock, 120K
1994 FZJ80, OME850/864 w/ CSC 1.5" spacers, 255/85 r16 Cooper Discoverer ST, 170K
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06-24-2016, 07:48 PM
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#25
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoRoss
I guessing that you did not cut those 3rd gen springs when you added them.
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I was wondering the same.
I think I'll be buffing a license plate light lens soon. I never thought of it.
Hint on pictures. Hit "enter" after you post each photo and we won't have to scroll sideways. Like I'm any kind of photo expert.
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1989 4Runner Build thread: http://www.yotatech.com/f199/nervo19.../#post52231244
2000 4Runner & 2000 Tacoma TRD Off Road
2008 4Runner & 2016 Tacoma 4x4 Dbl Cab TRD Sport
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06-25-2016, 10:25 AM
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#26
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No i did not cut the springs if i didnt add the bj spacer i would have had to cut a coil to be level.
Thx for the tip on the pics i get annoyed with that too
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06-29-2016, 07:37 PM
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#27
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Location: Lake Wylie, SC
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If it makes you feel any better i have been wrenching in my garage here in SC where humidity is a real issue. Btw, installed those same shocks last week on my 88 and well it sure makes a difference over original shocks from 1988 still on a rig. We have fam in phoenix and i sure get jealous of you guys in summer having very low humidity
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06-29-2016, 11:34 PM
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#28
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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Real Name: Kevin
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I'm in the process of doing the Upper and Lower Control Arm bushings and I'll tell you its kicking my butt. I have a press and had to make a couple tools for pressing and installing the UCA bushings. Removing wasn't bad but once you have the shaft installed its a bit tricky. I just returned the OEM style rubber bushings because once pressed in the front bushings wants to rotate vs the arm pivoting on the shaft.
The lower appeared easier until I pressed out the bushings and the arm bent at the inner side on both the front and rear.
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1987 22R-E, SR5. 5 Speed, 31's BFG A/T, stock wheels. 4.56 Gears, Rear Detroit locker Front True Track. 1.5" BJ Spacers & Extended Shackles in the rear.
1992 3.0, SR5. 5 Speed. 31's BFG M/T, stock wheels. 4.30 Gears-NON ADD- manual hubs, Elocker, 1.5" BJ Spacers, Moog springs w/ spacers. Sold
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06-29-2016, 11:51 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Florida Runner
Wow your truck is clean!!!
Why do you have two interior door handles on the passenger side?
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Thank you! Thats what i'm going for clean and solid. The rear most door handle is for the rear passenger to open the door from the back a little easier. I thought all 1st gens had em?
Quote:
Originally Posted by youngr
If it makes you feel any better i have been wrenching in my garage here in SC where humidity is a real issue. Btw, installed those same shocks last week on my 88 and well it sure makes a difference over original shocks from 1988 still on a rig. We have fam in phoenix and i sure get jealous of you guys in summer having very low humidity
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Yeah it's really not too bad here i'm used to it, most people hate the heat, but you do have some serious humidity in SC. I was in NC for a while when i was in the Marines, pretty damn humid!
I'm looking forward to seeing how this thing rides, i almost went with some skyjacker shocks. Glad i didn't
Quote:
Originally Posted by kc15842
I'm in the process of doing the Upper and Lower Control Arm bushings and I'll tell you its kicking my butt. I have a press and had to make a couple tools for pressing and installing the UCA bushings. Removing wasn't bad but once you have the shaft installed its a bit tricky. I just returned the OEM style rubber bushings because once pressed in the front bushings wants to rotate vs the arm pivoting on the shaft.
The lower appeared easier until I pressed out the bushings and the arm bent at the inner side on both the front and rear.
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That sucks! I"ll probably take them to a shop and avoid the headache and frustration. I don't have a press anyway. They charged me $5 per bushing last time on my 2wd pickup
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07-02-2016, 06:01 PM
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#30
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Started to rebuild my brake calipers. I bought a re-seal kit but it didnt include any grease like the Toyota kits come with. Anyone know what type of grease is good for the square seals and pistons? I already called the dealer they dont sell those small packets that are in the rebuild kits.
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