01-13-2017, 03:21 PM
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#1
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4r 1988 lock door button broken/missing
I can't block the doors of my 4R 1988 because the door lock button's broken or missing.
Is it possible to buy or adapt something similar?
Thank you for your time reading this.
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01-13-2017, 03:34 PM
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#2
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According to the wiring diagram the lock/unlock switch is just a SPDT center - off switch. You can get a rocker style switch like that at any automotive or marine store.
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'84 4Runner - ARBed 5.29s F&R, 4.7 & 2.28 t-cases, 2" drive train lift, BudBuilt x-member/skid, 30 spl Longs
'83 Toy P/U - Buick 231 V6, Holley 4 bbl, Weiand intake, Downey headers, TH350 w/700R4 low gearset,
'89 4Runner SR5 - stock
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01-13-2017, 03:37 PM
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#3
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Those master panels are expensive to replace. Poke around eBay. Or just live with it til you can find one cheaper from a part out or junkyard. You can still lock the doors manually.
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01-13-2017, 04:19 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourwd1
According to the wiring diagram the lock/unlock switch is just a SPDT center - off switch. You can get a rocker style switch like that at any automotive or marine store.
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So that's a button which goes back to the middle possition, whenever I lock or unlock the doors. Is that correct?
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01-13-2017, 04:29 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mholme
Those master panels are expensive to replace. Poke around eBay. Or just live with it til you can find one cheaper from a part out or junkyard. You can still lock the doors manually.
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You're correct, I can lock the doors manualy, with my left elbow and my right hand
There're not a lot of 80s 4Runner here where I live, I have more chances of winning the lottery that find a 4R in a junkyard.
Ebay sellers don't like to send this kind of items overseas (at least the stuff I wanted to get). I think it's better to try to find something similar to replace. But as you said, I can live with it until I find one.
Thank you for your time reading this.
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01-13-2017, 04:41 PM
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#6
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If somebody can upload one photo of that button, I'll know exactly what I'm looking for.
Thank you!
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01-13-2017, 07:26 PM
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#7
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Door lock pic from my 88
Here's my pic from my 88
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01-13-2017, 09:04 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SomeDay
So that's a button which goes back to the middle possition, whenever I lock or unlock the doors. Is that correct?
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Yes.
__________________
- the Internet - the mother-ship of people who don't know much and aren't afraid to go public
'84 4Runner - ARBed 5.29s F&R, 4.7 & 2.28 t-cases, 2" drive train lift, BudBuilt x-member/skid, 30 spl Longs
'83 Toy P/U - Buick 231 V6, Holley 4 bbl, Weiand intake, Downey headers, TH350 w/700R4 low gearset,
'89 4Runner SR5 - stock
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01-14-2017, 04:46 AM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Recdiver
Here's my pic from my 88
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Thanks that photo I know exactly what I'm looking for.
I trully appreciate your help.
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06-25-2017, 05:30 PM
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#10
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Hi Someday,
Found this post!
Let's start by making sure that the door lock relay module is restored to stock and works first, because the window control takes power from it (Pin 12, blu with red stripe).
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
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06-26-2017, 04:00 PM
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#11
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Thanks a lot for your help Ray!
I'd like to do explain a little bit better the situation.
My T4R SR5 first gen doesn't have power window and door control relay/module, the one placed in the passenger side, behind the ECT.
I'd like to install one.
Context:
The PO changed the order of some pins from the master and passenger door switch small harnesses:
The PO did some modifications in the power window and door control relay connector, wire harness side:
The PO did other changes, I can operate the driver, passenger and rear windows no key in the ignition switch (as you know, the rear window has a different relay).
I think he did it to bypass the missing relay.
I'd like to install the relay to be able to use the power door lock.
I undid the PO modifications, in the switches harnesses and in the relay conector (harness side). Pins're in the right position in every connector, but when I check it, the circuit's not correct based in the FSM BE-43 specifications.
The pin 9 (black) and 12 (blue with red stripes) are the problem:
What I know for sure:
The master and passenger switches continuity between terminals's correct in both, I checked them removed from the truck:
The power window motors work correctly.
The lock selonoids operate good also.
Something's wrong, but I don't know how to find it.
Ray, I'm going to follow your instructions tomorrow morning, I'll update the thread with the results. Thanks a lot for your help!
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Someday, Jennifer. Someday.
T4R SR5 first gen, 22RE, MT W56, IFS.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChildrenOfBodom
It serves no real purpose in my life other than being awesome.
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Last edited by SomeDay; 06-26-2017 at 04:10 PM.
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06-26-2017, 06:11 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SomeDay
...
I'd like to install one (relay).
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Need to start with the relay. Re-Wire it the way it should be wired:
Pin 2 to Door Lock circuit breaker
Pin 5 to power window circuit breaker.
Pin 8 to IGN fuse.
Verify wiring to door solenoids.
Verify wiring of pin 9 to door courtesy switch.
Then we do functional test as I described above.
Quote:
The PO did other changes, I can operate the driver, passenger and rear windows no key in the ignition switch. I think he did it to bypass the missing relay.
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Yes, he modified it. You should not be able to operate doors or windows unless IGN is on. MOST LIKELY, he connected pin 12 directly to always on 12V.
Quote:
The pin 9 (black) and 12 (blue with red stripes) are the problem
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EXACTLY what results are you getting when you test pin 9 or pin 12?
You are following inspection procedure ON THE HARNESS SIDE OF THE RELAY CONNECTOR with it disconnected from relay, correct?
Pin 9 should go to door courtesy switch. When doors are closed, there should be no continuity to ground. When any door or both doors are opened, there will be continuity to ground.
Inspection guide for Pin 12 is NOT accurate. Pin 12 gets 12V when certain conditions are satisfied. Continuity to ground will cause a short. The favorable result (when that procedure is followed - testing harness side) should say "READ RESISTANCE OF THE MOTOR". IF YOU DISCONNECT THE MOTOR THERE SHOULD BE NO CONTINUITY TO GROUND
What I know for sure:
The master and passenger switches continuity between terminals's correct in both, I checked them removed from the truck:
The power window motors work correctly.
The lock selonoids operate good also.
Something's wrong, but I don't know how to find it.
Ray, I'm going to follow your instructions tomorrow morning, I'll update the thread with the results. Thanks a lot for your help![/QUOTE]
__________________
86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-26-2017 at 06:20 PM.
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06-27-2017, 01:52 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
Need to start with the relay. Re-Wire it the way it should be wired:
Pin 2 to Door Lock circuit breaker
Pin 5 to power window circuit breaker.
Pin 8 to IGN fuse.
Verify wiring to door solenoids.
Verify wiring of pin 9 to door courtesy switch.
Then we do functional test as I described above.
Yes, he modified it. You should not be able to operate doors or windows unless IGN is on. MOST LIKELY, he connected pin 12 directly to always on 12V.
EXACTLY what results are you getting when you test pin 9 or pin 12?
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Weird ones.
From the pin 9 I get these readings:
Driver door close - passenger door close : No continuity.
Driver door open - passenger door close : Continuity
Driver side open - passenger door open : Continuity
Driver side close - passenger door open : No continuity
Problem with the passenger courtesy switch? By the way, when I open the doors, the courtesy light from both doors turn on.
With the pin 12 the readings are these:
Shows always continuity.
The continuity's interrupted only when I lock the windows, and when I roll the passenger windows up (only up), from the master switch and from the passenger switch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
You are following inspection procedure ON THE HARNESS SIDE OF THE RELAY CONNECTOR with it disconnected from relay, correct?
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Correct, inspection procedure on the harness side of the relay connector.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
Pin 9 should go to door courtesy switch. When doors are closed, there should be no continuity to ground. When any door or both doors are opened, there will be continuity to ground.
Inspection guide for Pin 12 is NOT accurate. Pin 12 gets 12V when certain conditions are satisfied. Continuity to ground will cause a short. The favorable result (when that procedure is followed - testing harness side) should say "READ RESISTANCE OF THE MOTOR". IF YOU DISCONNECT THE MOTOR THERE SHOULD BE NO CONTINUITY TO GROUND
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Pin 12, I disconnected the window motors, the reading's as you say, no continuity to ground.
From my point of view (a point of view of total ignorance in the subject) it looks like the pin order/position in the door switches harnesses's not correct, but I've checked that.
Thanks a lot Ray!
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Someday, Jennifer. Someday.
T4R SR5 first gen, 22RE, MT W56, IFS.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChildrenOfBodom
It serves no real purpose in my life other than being awesome.
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06-27-2017, 08:20 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SomeDay
Weird ones.
From the pin 9 I get these readings:
Driver door close - passenger door close : No continuity.
Driver door open - passenger door close : Continuity
Driver side open - passenger door open : Continuity
Driver side close - passenger door open : No continuity
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Proper logic is:
If Driver side OR passenger open = continuity
If both are open = Continuity
Yes, the courtesy switch on passenger side is either disconnected or broken or out of adjustment. Pretty simple to check. It's just a switch that closes when door is opened.
Will look into pin 12 later. BTW, do you already have the door lock relay?
__________________
86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
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Reply With Quote
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06-28-2017, 03:47 AM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
Proper logic is:
If Driver side OR passenger open = continuity
If both are open = Continuity
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I was expecting that, but I got No Continuity when I open the passenger door.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
Yes, the courtesy switch on passenger side is either disconnected or broken or out of adjustment. Pretty simple to check. It's just a switch that closes when door is opened.
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I'm going to check the passenger courtesy switch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
Will look into pin 12 later. BTW, do you already have the door lock relay?
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I'm looking at it right now, it's on the table, 30 years old Toyota door control module, part number 85980-89101.
Thanks a lot!
__________________
Someday, Jennifer. Someday.
T4R SR5 first gen, 22RE, MT W56, IFS.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChildrenOfBodom
It serves no real purpose in my life other than being awesome.
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