01-30-2017, 08:00 PM
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#1
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Transmission shifting at high rpm ?? Why ??
I have a 94 4Runner four wheel drive V6 and my transmission won't shift until I get to about 4000 RPMs in each gear, and to get into overdrive I have to do almost 70mph. it's causing me to run at high RPM's and it's eating up my gas. My check engine light is not on so I can't get a code to find out what it is.
I like to mention I'm a girl but I'm not a dumb girl so I've been trying to investigate what it is and I've come across a few different things.
Possibly a speed sensor, a shift solenoid , throttle position cable, or TpS sensor...
I'd like to try to pinpoint what it is instead of having to replace all these parts because it's quite costly.
Any help on the subject would be greatly appreciated and if you need any more information on the subject let me know please and thank you.
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02-04-2017, 09:16 PM
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#2
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ANY advice?
Help!!
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02-04-2017, 11:11 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Nov 2013
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I have a similar issue and am going to replace the 3 solenoids when it warms up.
I got all 3 for $60 off ebay
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1994 4Runner AKA: Project Recycle
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02-15-2017, 06:14 PM
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#4
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Did you replace the solenoids? Did it fix the problem? I don't have the money to buy and replace something that isn't gonna fix my issue, and getting someone to do the work is not easy either ( I am a girl and even changing the spark plugs on my motor is a pain in the ass)
So I was hoping to hear if it worked for you...
And FYI, I asked my truck and told her if she tells me what s wrong I'll fix her, but the check engine light is not even on...
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02-15-2017, 06:24 PM
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#5
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Real Name: Ron
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Here's the diag section from the service manual for the A340H automatic transmission, which is what should be in your truck. The transmission has its own diagnostic system, and won't light the CEL just because something is wrong. The transmission diag system uses the OD light to blink out the codes.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
(BTW, SST 09843-18020 is just a jumper wire. A paper clip works just as well.)
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2006 Sport Edition, V8, 206K miles, 2.5/1.5" OME lift, SPC adjustable UCA's, 255/75/17 BFG KO2's load range C @ 40psi. Regeared diffs to 4.30, with TrueTrac in rear.
1994 SR5, V6, 5-spd, Aussie locker front, Aisin manual hubs, Truetrac rear, 33/10.50/15 BFG KO's, stock suspension, OBA (Viair 400C), Front Range Offroad twin stick, 225K miles. Dual 2.28 transfer cases, for a 90:1 crawl ratio.
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02-15-2017, 06:28 PM
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#6
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Real Name: Ron
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BTW, don't apologize for being a girl. Changing the spark plugs on a 3.0 V6 is a pain in ass no matter who you are. Takes at least two more joints in the forearm and wrist than most people have.
Keep asking questions and you'll be able to get to the bottom of this.
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2006 Sport Edition, V8, 206K miles, 2.5/1.5" OME lift, SPC adjustable UCA's, 255/75/17 BFG KO2's load range C @ 40psi. Regeared diffs to 4.30, with TrueTrac in rear.
1994 SR5, V6, 5-spd, Aussie locker front, Aisin manual hubs, Truetrac rear, 33/10.50/15 BFG KO's, stock suspension, OBA (Viair 400C), Front Range Offroad twin stick, 225K miles. Dual 2.28 transfer cases, for a 90:1 crawl ratio.
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02-15-2017, 06:37 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonJR
Here's the diag section from the service manual for the A340H automatic transmission, which is what should be in your truck. The transmission has its own diagnostic system, and won't light the CEL just because something is wrong. The transmission diag system uses the OD light to blink out the codes.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
(BTW, SST 09843-18020 is just a jumper wire. A paper clip works just as well.)
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I can't open up that file do you think you could possibly email it to me to at [email protected]? ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeashaAnn
Did you replace the solenoids? Did it fix the problem? I don't have the money to buy and replace something that isn't gonna fix my issue, and getting someone to do the work is not easy either ( I am a girl and even changing the spark plugs on my motor is a pain in the ass)
So I was hoping to hear if it worked for you...
And FYI, I asked my truck and told her if she tells me what s wrong I'll fix her, but the check engine light is not even on...
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02-16-2017, 05:12 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Meridian Idaho
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Real Name: Jonathan
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Join Date: Feb 2016
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I'm on a 5 speed with my 2nd gen so I might not be the best help but my auto has an ect button that causes shift points to be higher for added torque during towing. I've heard it can malfunction and cause shifting issues. The solenoids are gonna be your best bet though. That's the usual suspect with the auto trannys
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02-16-2017, 05:41 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimex88
I'm on a 5 speed with my 2nd gen so I might not be the best help but my auto has an ect button that causes shift points to be higher for added torque during towing. I've heard it can malfunction and cause shifting issues. The solenoids are gonna be your best bet though. That's the usual suspect with the auto trannys
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No, 1st, it doesn't shift the same as when I had used it before this problem.. and also I have tried to use it since and it makes it worse... I now know about the troubleshooting I can do for the tranny. Posted above , and I just haven't had the chance to do it.. hard to fit in mechanics when I'm watching grandbaby, work, and the cleaning and other womanly duties..
But it is looking like the Shift silioniod... hopefully my truck will tell me when I do the codes...
But also questioning if I can just change the shift silioniod or do I have to do all 3... and could I get away with swapping from another tranny or get them new... I know new is always better, but have very limited funds and have friend who has 3 parts trucks. And may have one that the engine went bad in the transmission still good but I'm pretty sure it's easier to change the solenoids instead of the whole tranny.
But I worry about all those issues after I troubleshoot
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02-16-2017, 05:59 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Meridian Idaho
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Real Name: Jonathan
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Join Date: Feb 2016
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If the tranny was in good shape before the motor went then a replacement tranny wouldnt hurt if the miles are lower and wasnt ran like a race car. The solenoids are gonna be the easiest option though cause you just pull the oil pan and filter and replace the solenoids in the same compartment. You're gonna have to buy a new tranny filter and tranny fluid to replace it all though. If I remember right, all the solenoids are on the side of where the filter goes and arent hard to replace. It's a messy job so make sure you have your garage floor covered
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02-16-2017, 08:03 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimex88
If the tranny was in good shape before the motor went then a replacement tranny wouldnt hurt if the miles are lower and wasnt ran like a race car. The solenoids are gonna be the easiest option though cause you just pull the oil pan and filter and replace the solenoids in the same compartment. You're gonna have to buy a new tranny filter and tranny fluid to replace it all though. If I remember right, all the solenoids are on the side of where the filter goes and arent hard to replace. It's a messy job so make sure you have your garage floor covered
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Ya, I have already checked it out and have it saved to my phone the diagrams showing where they are located... did not know yet about the filter and fluid. Was gonna find the section from manual on it before getting it done...
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02-16-2017, 10:13 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Feb 2016
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Good idea. Ya you'll have to refill the fluid when you replace the solenoids cause you have to open the oil pan and if you're already there you might as well replace the filter so you're not putting fresh oil through a dirty filter. Preventative maintenance really
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02-17-2017, 12:42 PM
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#13
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Just because it's a no brainer, did you verify you have enough transmission fluid? We had a similar situation right after we acquired a 1993 and it was easily resolved by adding the proper amount of fluid.
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02-17-2017, 01:40 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahlem
Just because it's a no brainer, did you verify you have enough transmission fluid? We had a similar situation right after we acquired a 1993 and it was easily resolved by adding the proper amount of fluid.
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Good point. Don't overlook the simple things. Automatic transmissions are very sensitive to fluid levels.
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2006 Sport Edition, V8, 206K miles, 2.5/1.5" OME lift, SPC adjustable UCA's, 255/75/17 BFG KO2's load range C @ 40psi. Regeared diffs to 4.30, with TrueTrac in rear.
1994 SR5, V6, 5-spd, Aussie locker front, Aisin manual hubs, Truetrac rear, 33/10.50/15 BFG KO's, stock suspension, OBA (Viair 400C), Front Range Offroad twin stick, 225K miles. Dual 2.28 transfer cases, for a 90:1 crawl ratio.
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02-21-2017, 11:34 AM
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#15
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Join Date: Mar 2016
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Changing the solenoids is pretty easy. I did mine in an hour in a dirt driveway while it was raining. I would buy all of the solenoids. There is no sense in dropping the pan and just replacing 1.
1. Drain the transmission fluid.
2. Remove transmission pan.
3. Remove transmission filter.
4. Remove solenoids and replace with new ones. (1 bolt and 1 plug if I remember correctly)
5. Install new filter.
6. Clean old gasket off of pan and transmission.
7. Install new gasket and install pan.
8. Add transmission fluid.
This is just a quick list, but it's is not a hard job at all.
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