Where did you find the Toyota "1987 model New Car Features" sales and service publication?

It looks pretty interesting!

I found it on ebay while browsing through a list of 87 Toyota manuals.

I took care of a variety of repairs and clean up over the past months, here's the summary:

Hood latch cable busted one Saturday afternoon. I ordered a new cable and cleaned and painted the old latch.


The brake master cylinder started leaking. Picked up a new 13/16" MC from RockAuto. I considered the 1" upgrade, but decided against it since I've had no braking issues with the stock MC. When bench bleeding the MC I could only get fluid to move through the rear port, but when I plugged the rear port the fluid flowed through the front port and was able to bleed it.


New Brake MC installed. I repainted the Booster, shield, and three way while the MC was off. I'm learning how to plate small parts, but my results haven't been good enough for finish work so I settled for using Eastwood paint (Silver Cad, Underhood Black, and Aluminum).


Fuel injector #1 started leaking so took off the plenum and other parts to get to the rail. Labeled vacuum lines to avoid future issues.


Injectors were a little dirty.


The leaky injector was the cleanest.


A little clean up while waiting for injectors to be serviced by WitchHunter.








WitchHunter did a good job servicing the injectors. I chose them from recommendations given on this and other forums.


Here's the before and after test results from WitchHunter Performance.


Injectors installed.


Everything back together.


Upper radiator hose sprang a leak at the thermostat housing. I couldn't put a new hose on a dirty thermostat housing so it was cleaned and painted, then I replaced the thermostat and painted the top tank of the radiator before installing the new upper hose.

I forgot to include the following work to my last post:
- Transmission swap: After replacing the transmission solenoids and going through the FSM troubleshooting steps I came to the conclusion that the A340H was worn out and needed to be replaced or rebuilt. I was fortunate enough to come across an A340H that was working fine and so that one went in and the old one came out. It's shifting through all gears and working fine. I still have a bit of power loss when it shifts from 2 to 3, but nothing like with the previous transmission. With that issue still happening even after the swap, I think its a safe bet that the cause is not internal to the transmission and somewhere with the ECT system. Time to test the ECT.

- Replaced the rear main during the transmission swap. The old one was leaking.

Next on my to-do list is replace the the front/rear shocks and Left CV Axle.

I had a fuel smell pop up a few weeks ago and with the holidays over finally had time to look into. I was careful and didn't drive it, but with a fire extinguisher close by I did crank it up a few times to inspect the fuel damper, newly serviced injectors, cold start injector, fuel line connections, etc. for leaks. Nothing wet.

With the truck running it was hard to pinpoint the location due to the cooling fan quickly spreading the smell. I jumped Fp and B+ with the ignition "On" for about a minute and without the engine running I was able to isolate the smell to the area around the charcoal cannister. I did a pressure test with the air hose and the valve was bad. I checked megazip.net for the part number and found that the replacement cannister is the same part number used on the 2nd gen 4Runners. I sourced a cannister off a '95 4Runner with a 3.0 from a local upull-it, cleaned it, installed it, cranked it up - no fuel smell - problem SOLVED.

That's a great build! Lots of great tips-I have an 86 Turbo, and there are all kinds of little things(including sunroof ) that you cover here.

I've been learning about zinc electroplating and chromate finishes and over the past several months I slowly purchased what I needed to get started. I spent the morning getting the various solutions setup to replate a few parts for the first time. I started with a small L-shaped bracket as a test piece to see how things would go, then being happy with the results I plated a few parts for the 87 4Runner.

I used the 1.5 Gallon Copy Cad Zinc Plating from Caswell, plus the yellow chromate to try to match the original factory finish. The process was:
1) 10 minute soak in chemical cleaner bath (solution had to be 160-190 F)
2) Rinse
3) 4 minute soak in Acid Bath (18% Muriatic Acid)
4) Rinse
5) 10-15 minutes in the Copy Cad Zinc solution
6) Rinse
7) 5 second dip in Acid Bath (18% Muriatic Acid)
8) Rinse
9) Dry with air nozzle
10) 3-5 second dip in the yellow chromate
11) Rinse
12) Hang for 24 hours

Overall I'm happy with the results. Maybe a tad bit too yellow, but much better than the 32 year old dull, worn finish.

Here's the zinc electroplating and yellow chromate setup. Not shown are the gloves, chemical mask, and safety goggles I wore:


Here are a few of the parts - Bracket from Turbo Vacuum, Brake line 3-way, Cruise Control Actuator Housing and Bracket.

You need to change your name to “OCD”ave! Awesome attention to detail!

Thanks.
“OCD”ave. I love it!

I want to do this someday too. Nice work.

When you say too yellow, did you add too much of the color?

Thanks.
Yeah. There's more (darker) yellow the longer the part is submerged in the yellow cadmium. I'm still learning what the variables are, for example 5 seconds was good for one part, but a second or two too long for another part. Possible variables that I'll play around with might be the quality of the zinc coating from the previous step, and the speed of the dip (slow vs quick).

Those parts look perfect now.

Thanks. I have to give credit to Caswell Plating for their efforts in developing the kits/products and writing a detail manual to help newbies like myself start tinkering with electroplating.

Good deal. Definitely seems to have some skill involved.

Three letters mean a thousand words...
"WOW!"